Don't think I shared my pannier setup, so here it is. Maybe somebody else has been thinking about this type of setup.

The bike had a standard Honda rear rack, but it's not suitable for the SW-Motech setup as-is.

I came across (around $30 as I recall) the SW-Motech Suzuki DL-650 rear plate with the proper setup for Trax panniers. The plate had the essential hole spacing, mounting washers, etc., that I needed to match the Trax boxes.

The only problem with this is that particular rack does not fit on the Honda rear rack, it's designed for a completely different bike. But after eye-balling it online, I ordered it anyway. At that price, I figured I could fabricate a new rear rack from plate aluminum to mount to the Honda rack rear bars.

I bought a heavy sheet of aluminum for $20 and cut out the shape I needed, ground down the edges and drilled the holes to mount this to the Honda rack. I then drilled bolt holes to put the Suzuki plate onto the rack and put everything together with loctite. I was very happy with the results.



I also got lucky and found the SW-Motech side pannier racks on clearance for the CB1100. Those were the design I wanted and needed.



I also found the Trax trunk and side panniers used in a nearby town, so that saved me quite a bit. All told, the racks, mounts, bags cost less then half the price of new, maybe only 1/3 their cost.







The rear trunk sits level in relation to the side panniers (which cannot be adjusted), and I could put spacers on the rear rack plate to tip the trunk forward, but doubt that I will (I don't see the need). It's also way easier to load and unload the way it sits.

This is actually my very first pannier setup, I've always owned "naked bikes" and none out of 20 or 30 or whatever the actual number was had panniers.

I've taken this down our dirt road unloaded and there is virtually no rattles or sounds coming from any of the luggage, so I'm pretty happy with that. All the locks, releases, etc., all work too, so they can be quickly taken off the bike if desired.

Other mods done was MRA windshield, driving light, flashing rear tail light, LED headlight, SW-Motech engine guards, front mud flap, Corbin seat and Arrow exhaust.

Hey all,

I upgraded my 2013's clutch line to steel braided line. It was an hour job with taking my sweet time and ensuring that I bled the fluids properly.

I got this one from [url=https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/spiegler-clutch-line]spiegler via revzilla

The OEM clutch line is already pretty easy on squeeze so this one only improved the smoothness and even application of the clutch.

My only gripe is the color. I regret not going on Spiegler's website and just ordering a custom line.

I installed aux LED lights on my bike for night riding. I have a Denali B6 aux brake light which I want to install but it is proving to be a challenge. If anyone has either successfully done it or have some expert advice, I would welcome it. https://denalielectronics.com/collection...l-b6-10000

Howdy All!

I want a badazz murdered out CB cafe...
- anyone have any experience with blacking out their fork tubes or purchasing fork tube replacements?
- Is it as simple as buying same length and width but in a different but coated version?

Here's my previous cafe set-up that I might bring my bike back to. I keep changing my bike on theme I have probably painted my tank around 7 times now.

Re my 2014 CB1100:

I've installed softer rear shocks (Ikons) and have spent a good deal of time on the forks. I'm now down to
- .80 weight springs.
- Race Tech Gold valves.
- OEM damper rods drill out per Race Tech.
- Small bleed holes in Race Tech valve increased from 2 to 4 holes each.

Bike is now very compliant over the softer bumps. Per Race Tech, the small bleed holes take care of that.

Sharp edge bumps still a problem. Indicative of either too heavy a Race Tech valve spring, or too much preload on said spring, causing the valve not to open on sharp edge bumps.

So, next step is to either reduce valve spring preload or re-install the lightest valve spring they offer, and increase fork oil wt to 15 or 20, per their instructions. This will offer increased rebound control without affecting compression damping.

Summary. All better, but not quite there yet! This is a real education.

Bob

What an extraordinary race. I was hoping Marquez could win it, but Dovizioso's remarkable ride was just too good. Two great champions on great and well-matched motorcycles.

Tom Grigat is a model builder with a very interesting You Tube channel.

I love watching this one in particular - stop motion assembly of a Vincent Black Shadow. Give it a look see!

[url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aHit7WU95Ik&t=180s]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aHit7WU95Ik&t=180s

Mindful this is pure speculation, does anyone think there will be updates or changes to the CB1100 in the upcoming new model year? I'm mindful that 2014 was the year of the DLX, then 2017 for the EX . . . so following that pattern 2020 may be a big year for the Honda CB1100.

What are you thoughts, opinions, hypotheses?

My dream would be for the version in the photo I am attempting to attach. :-)

Thanks!

https://www.cycletrader.com/listing/2017...5009013551

On a short ride today, I realized I lost one of the bar end weights. Not a huge deal, but in my efforts to eliminate the little buzz between 3k - 4k rpm, I had taken these on and off, installed grip puppies, but neither actions solved the buzz. Same buzz with the bar end removed, same buzz when they are installed.

I prefer the lower rpm range versus 4k and up, which I reserve for harder acceleration, but for cruising, mid 3k is just fine.

On the way back, I actually found the bar end, but it was dinged up a bit and I probably won't try to reuse it.

Has anybody put heavier bar ends on the CB and solved the buzz issue? If so, what did you use and where did you find it?

I've also installed risers, up 1", back 1", which is the absolute limit I can get with my front brake line, it's pretty short. It's still not quite enough for the relaxed position I was trying for.

This is the second set of risers I've tried too, the first offered more adjustability and rear reach. But the brake line was just too short to get the range I wanted. Not too happy about that, I would probably need to install a longer line and work on obtaining enough slack in the throttle cables.

I did install a Corbin seat too, looks far better then it feels. Probably designed for riders with longer legs, it has uncomfortable ridges that press on my rear thighs. Also forces you into a more rearward butt position if you try to settle into the "bucket" which means I have to hunch forward more then I'd like. So I ride it sitting forward of the bucket and it's just not that comfortable. I'm not a tall rider and my guess is Corbin designed this for riders a few inches taller then I and with a longer inseam.

Not sure if I should have the seat modified by a competent shop or try something else. The stock seat as most know isn't much either, but at least you can move around on it as you see fit, and there aren't any ridges. However, the foam is too hard for me, so I never rode this seat much.

Other then that - still a great bike. I'm a fan of air-cooled and still get a lot of joy riding this machine.