New to me '13 with 1500 miles.

Just notice there's a video thread here, would like to share this incident last year.
This happen about a year ago while I was on the way to work, bike was still on an almost worn out tyre ( about a month before I changed to T30 tyre). A truck lost control and crashed in front of me. CB1100 braking system sure is good. But she need a good pair of tyre to stop as well. Rear wheel slide about 10 meters on the road when rear got too light after hitting the front brake hard. I have another ninja 650 which i use daily and i reckon i wouldn't have stop in time if i were to ride the ninja 650 that day.

Hi guys, not sure if its been post before, but it seems oil level are different depend on you stop engine and park on center stand or side stand right away. I had been baffled by my cb100 oil level which fluctuate up and down. Initially i thought the engine have taken in some water hence the oil level increases. But yesterday i have found out that if i have stop the engine and put on center stand right away, my oil level will be lower compare to if i stop engine, put on side stand, after few minutes only put on center stand to check. It seems some oil will be trapped somewhere and never flow back to oil pan if we were to maintain the bike upright position after stop the engine. The difference are quite big as the oil can be at top mark (stop engine on center stand) or overfill the whole sighting glass (stop engine on side stand, wait few minutes and put on center stand to check). The question is which level should we trust?

It has been a bit over a month now that I bought myself a new all season riding suit, and I have been waiting to write about it so that I have time to properly test it.

So, my old all season suit was a Dainese gore-tex suit that I have now been using for ten years. It has been excellent throughout this time, and I believe that the fact that it is still good ten years later is testament to the quality of it. The only problem I had with it was a lack of ventilation, and so on days with very high temperature it would become unbearable if I had to stop for more than a few seconds!

The beginning of June here brought a pretty intense heatwave, and on the first really hot day I returned home from work on my bike feeling lightheaded simply from being too hot! Since the following day I had to go on a 5 hour train ride, I used the opportunity to investigate the internet to find the perfect suit to replace the old Dainese with, keeping in mind that ventilation was probably the most important aspect. This resulted in a short list of 4 suits from Dainese, Held and Rev’It. Money was not really an object here simply because I always feel that my safety on the bike really does not have a price, and if such a suit then lasts for 10 years the annual cost will be reasonable no matter what.

Having then tried them out in a shop, I ended up buying the Rev’It Poseidon 2 GTX. I chose the jacket in white and pants in black partly because the shop only had these to offer in my size, and in the end I think this is the best option. Even though a white jacket may be more prone to getting dirty, it really makes a difference when the sun is burning. A black jacket just soaks up even more heat! The price came to about $1'400 total.

This suit has been designed more for a European style street touring. The cut is quite tight and straight, which I like, and it comes with all the necessary protection. There is also a space for a back protection, and I was able to carry over the one I had before. It has a fixed gore-tex liner, and the outside of the suite is done in something they call a GTX coating. This results in the outside also repelling water. My previous jacket, although waterproof with the gore-tex liner, would soak up water on the outside, and in heavy rain it would end up weighing a ton! It has lots of fully waterproof pockets, and I can easily bring along more than my basic necessities. I can even put the winter liner in the pocket on the back in case you have it in the jacket during a cold morning, but want to remove it later during the ride. There's even a storm collar that zips on to ensure that you stay fully dry also on the collar.

The first couple of days I was then able to test it out riding in temperatures between 35° and 40° C (95° to 105° F). This meant obviously removing the extra cold weather liner and opening all the vents. There are two big ones on the chest, on the upper arms and then two big openings on the back. The pants also have two big vents on the thighs. The result has been amazing! Sure, it will get warm at those temperatures, but then again wearing nothing is hot at that point, but the wind really circulates well through the suit. After a 40 minute ride home from work, with half being stop and go city traffic, the shirt I was wearing underneath would still be dry! With my old Dainese suit it was as if I had showered with my shirt on. The vents are also really easy to close up quickly if needed.

The other day I ended up riding for an hour in heavy rain, and it is perfectly waterproof. Nothing seeped in, and on top of that the outside was not soaked in any way. Just a dream in such conditions, and when I got to work I would not drip water all over!!

For me I have found my perfect all season suit. It works great even in the hottest temperatures we get here, and is completely waterproof. We will see this winter how it holds up in the cold, but having tested the liner I think I will be just fine.

I recently recovered some very, very old black and white pictures I took at Le Mans in 1974, when the yearly 24 Hours race "Bol d'Or" was held there, on the Bugatti circuit... (later this race went to Le Castellet, then Magny-Cours). I set out to scan all that... No very good shots there, but good souvenir!

I put all my photos of this race in this [url=http://img.gg/O4qNni5]album

Geolocation and date/time of shots are very approximate (put in metadata 45 years after the event...)

Here’s a selection, the four least bad pictures!

This bike was already an anachronism, but there was at the time quite a sympathy for the "big singles"... A few minutes before the start, the BSA 500 of Nigel Rollasson and Bernard Berger:


Ready to start there too, Anne-Marie Lagauche and Gabrielle Toigo’s Kawasaki 900, and Peter Hitchcox and Douglas Cash's Dresda Honda


None of the previous bikes finished the race... On second day I tried to get some shots of top 3 bikes... Here is Gerard Debrock, on a Honda 860:


And the winner bike : Kawasaki 1000 (Georges Godier / Alain Genoud)


Jean-Pierre

Or anal retentive.

They say that the true sign of OCD is the guy who straightens pictures on his walls as he's heading out the door because the house is on fire. I can see myself doing that.

Anyway, the square "kick loop" on the side stand sort of bugged me. My boot kept scuffing the paint on it. Yeah, I know, who cares. But it bugged me.

I was cleaning up some things in the garage, and grabbed a spring clamp like this one. Hmm.... I thought. I took the black rubber grip off of the handle, and slid it over the square loop on the side stand. Problem solved. And, it makes the area your boot is trying to kick slightly larger and grippier, which I see as a plus.

Hey all,

Not sure what’s going on exactly but when I tried to go for a ride today, my bike wouldn’t move. Turned on fine, shifted into 1st fine, but the bike was still acting like it was in neutral—no friction zone, bike didn’t even stall when I took my hand off the clutch. Same thing when I shifted up to 2nd gear. Could feel the shift, and the shift registered on the dash, but couldn’t pull out of the parking space.

It was working fine last night, so it’s a pretty sudden change. Didn’t see any signs of someone tampering with it. Suspecting maybe clutch fluid? Any other suggestions or similar situations?

I use my iPhone X and an app called Scenic to navigate my planned routes and to track my routes, planned or otherwise. I have it mounted on a Ram mount which really works perfectly for me.



I use a waterproof case from OTBBA which I got from Amazon. It works great in general (very waterproof/very shock resistant - I have first-hand testimonials for both), but I'm getting glare on the screen that makes it difficult to read. Yes, I have adjusted the mount to keep it as much out of the sun as possible, but that doesn't help. Yes, I've changed the brightness control on my iPhone (I've tried both the True-tone and manual options)--I feel like it's probably bright enough without the case, but I haven't experimented with that yet. Yes, I know that iPhone screens can dim when the device gets hot, but the dimness/glare thing happens even in the winter. I think that the screen on the case is causing the glare or maybe is filtering the light in a manner that causes the iPhone to dim.

My question to you who use their phone for navigation is this: Do you have a waterproof case and, if so, do you have problems with glare/screen dimness?

Thanks for the help.

P.S. No, I don't want to use a paper map or buy a Garmin, but thank you.

Was browsing for farm equipment. Somehow I ended up buying this for $365. Oops?

https://imgur.com/gallery/AUnJiP3

Hi All,
Newbie here and this is my 1st time opening up a motorcyle cylinder head cover to do a valve clearance check and fixing the oil leak at the cover's rubber gasket. In the process one of my head cover bolt snapped broken into 2, with part of it's stud embedded inside the camshaft cap. I have since took out the camshaft cap and remove the broken stud and reinstalled everything back. There's few question I would like to ask.

1) Why the camshaft cap is not available as a spare part? Spartparts manual show its consider as cylinder head assembly. I can't seems to find part number just for the camshaft cap. (But camshaft is available as spare part. ) Aren't the turning of camshaft will soon wear out camshaft cap??

2) I torque the camshaft cap locking bolt to about 9nm only, afraid that I might broke another bolt. Will this cause the cap to loosen during high engine rev?

3) All my valve clearance are on the loose end. could these wear be due to engine oil weight i have been using? I had been using 15W-50 weight oil because I ride in 34-39 Celsius weather ( about 90-100 Fahrenheit) all the time. And on a hot day it could be 40 Celsius.

4) The tread on the camshaft cap have been damage abit, due to this, i have reduce the locking torque on the head cover. any risk other than leaky top or missing bolt?

5) For the 4 small connector wires at the back of the ignition coil, how do we identify which goes to where if we forgot to label them?