There is a bike for sale I’m interested in and I live in NJ. Anyone near Charlotte that might be able to help me out and take a look at it for me?

I always appreciate a neutral unbiased opinion when buying a vehicle sight unseen.

Please PM me. Thanks!!

I just returned from a special trip to pick up rims with new tires, at Medford Cycle Gear. They offered to have them ready 4 hours after I dropped them off on Friday. I said Monday would be as soon as I could get back. He thanked me for my patience and said they would be ready. Get there this morning, there not done. Then Manager said they were too busy helping customers to do tire mounting. I replied I am a customer were was my help...THAT YOU COMMITTED TO! the big deal is it is 98 mile round trip. In a 2010 chevy 4x4 going over 3 2000 ft climbs about 11 mpg.. that works out to $40 in gas. But they had customers that must have been more important than me.
Hello Rocky Moutian ATV. I will not spend one more dime at Cycle Gear!!!

Don't share this too widelee but I have always gotten out of speeding tickets.
It's not necessarily free but they never show up on my record.
First when they call you up in court.
** Ask to go last!!! This allows the judge not to have everybody follow your lead. Then plead "No Contest to a 90 day suspended sentence and 10 hours of community service. I always throw in that I will clean dog pens at local pet rescue. Used this 5 times

Upfront I prefer old school chains.
Yes they require more maintenance. Upfront I love cleaning the chain on my bike. Remember O ring chains need to be replaced every 4 years regardless of mileage or riding style
The rubber o-rings get old. It takes about 2 hp more to spin an o-ring chain than an Racing chain.
Just my opinion

Hello
I need to remove and reinstall my right crankcase cover and wanted to know if i need to drain the oil and reinstall with a gasket? I assume so but seeing as this is the first time i have worked on a motorcycle im not sure what to expect. i attached a picture for reference. Thanks!!

As I approach 72 years old, I'm beginning to ponder how much longer I can maneuver a 500+ lb. motorcycle with one replaced knee and the other not so great. Built a new home recently with the biggest downsize being a two car garage....requiring me to use a Harbor Freight dolly to move the CB into position. Almost fell over once while pulling into a parking space and planting my right foot off balance.
I have NEVER been without a motorcycle since I was 17, and couldn't exist without regular "air therapy".
So, I ask myself....Is this my future?

All,

DLX w 8.6k miles. Was backing out down a driveway with a slight incline and went to use the front brake to slow it a bit. To my surprise, there was barely any resistance to the brake lever. The lever almost went to the bar. I did get some stopping power out of it so that was good but it was a bit of a shock. First time that has ever happened.

So then I made an appt with my local Honda dealer to flush and replace all the fluids (brake, clutch) because I bought the bike used and wasn't exactly sure of the complete maintenance history.

Anyway, long story short-ish, I got the bike back and I'm still noticing wild swings in brake lever resistance even with new fluid. I can always get pressure back up with a few pumps but it starts to fade with maybe 10 minutes or so of riding.

Any thoughts from the group?

My guess is most will say there is air in the line but I find it a bit odd that air would be in the line both before and after the service. Maybe though?

Thanks for any feedback. Calling the dealer tomorrow to see what they think.

Hello There,

My CB1100 has been experiencing high idle issues similar to other on this forum. I have spent a good amount of time reading posts hoping that someone has already figured this out for me. But I could not find someone with the exact same symptoms.

The problem I experience is that the idle RPM is about 1,500 with the clutch fully in, and the idle RPM is about 2,000 when partially out (But still dis-engaged). I have learned to ride with using two fingers to pull in the clutch. This results in my other fingers behind the clutch. When the clutch is in this position, the engine is at 2,000 RPM.

I dont think that the problem is related to the IACV because when I first start the engine it warms up at 1500 RPM and then settles at 1100 RPM. Only when I start riding does the idle never drop below 1500 RPM (clutch fully in) or 2000 RPM (clutch in with two fingers)

I think that the problem is related to the TPS because when I ride with it unplugged, the engine idles right at 1000-1100 RPM. My theory is that there is something wrong with the middle zone of the sensor. At 1500 RPM idle I get 0.5 v from the signal line, and I get 5 v on the power line.

The help I need is sourcing a new TPS. I tried cross referencing compatible part numbers and bought one for $16. That one rotated the wrong way and was no good for me. I ended up taking the OEM one off the bike, and then put it back on. Does anyone know a compatible TPS part number?

I had thought it was: 16402-REJ-W01
Compatible part numbers per random Ebay listing:
Manufacturer Part Number
16402 REJ W01, 16402 REJ 003, 16402 PWA 003

Interchange Part Number:
JT7H, JT7H20410, TPS008-03, TPS113, GEGT7610-158, 16402-RAA-A01, 16402-RAC-A01, TPS-H112, TPS-H113, JT6HB, T42002, 16402-RAA-A02, 16402-REJ-W01, T42004, 977-024, HAJT7HARK

Any other ideas are welcome. Maybe my brain is fried from thinking about this too much.

Drove 250 km on this cold and rainy day. This picture is taken in the deserted highlands of Iceland. The snow-covered mountain far in the background is Herdubreid. This impressive mountain, 1682 m high, is often called 'the queen of Icelandic mountains' and was voted the Icelandic 'national mountain' in a 2002 poll.

I haven't posted in a long time but I was compelled to share my experience with the squealing front brake on my 2017 CB1100EX. I recall several other members had complained about the issue of the EX front brake squealing with light brake pressure applied when coming to a stop or making a slow turn. I went through all of the normal brake related cures, trying to fix the problem but nothing seemed to affect it. I tried several brake pads, coated the back of the pads with "anti-squeal" and burnished the disks with steel wool occasionally. I've had the calipers off several times during tire replacements and cleaned them each time. I also religiously "bled" the brakes every couple of years but it did not effect the noise. The bike has 38000 miles on it and had just started leaving signs of failing fork seals, so I made an appointment to replace the seal, bushings and oil. Of course, the forks have no drain plug (like my '94 BMW GSPD), and the manual does not address fork oil changes, so the oil in the forks remain unchanged until seals are changed.

After the seals were changed, I took the bike on a 100 mile shake down to make sure the seals worked and was shocked to discover the squealing from front brake was now gone. Since I never experienced the problem with my 2013, I attributed the squealing to the new dual bending valve Showa front fork. Was it the changing of the seals, or new oil, or even the bushings that effected the noise? I'm assuming it was the new oil but since I had them all done at the same time it may be open to conjecture. Ride safe...Terry