With thanks to kennyw for the photo, and to 3rdbike for the idea, I invite members to examine the photograph and tell us in as few or as many words as they the back story to the photo. There are no rules really, except that the truth will not necessarily be welcome. Yes. I'm talking to you kennyw.

Mine is RS 2017 with 27,500km. Just had the check engine light coming up without blinking on the way home from work yesterday.

Bike running without any issue but just the yellow check engine indicator on. I'm wondering if anyone experience this, please share. Thanks

I'm 5'4 and too short for my CB currently.
I lowered the suspension and will get my seat shaved tomorrow.
Anyone else have had these issues??
Any ideas on what else I can do?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I'm having some problems finding the torque spec for the bolts. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

https://flic.kr/p/26fW573

https://flic.kr/p/23yLpHm

https://flic.kr/p/JcwW6b

https://flic.kr/p/25eGceJ

At the risk of groans from the readers at another oil change related thread, I wondered if a step had been missed in the various oil change procedure threads, or if it just had not been mentioned because it was considered a "given".

I am of the "old School" group about changing oil hot/warm, for smoother drain flow, suspending particles immediately prior to drain, and the Shop Manual calls for Hot/warm drain. What I noticed is that the various previous threads did not mention the first step in the drain procedure, after the bike is warmed up and shut off, is removing the oil filler cap. This is also the first step in the Shop Manual.

Back in the day, an old time mechanic taught me the finer points of oil changes. Aside from the warm up in order to drain hot/warm oil, he also said to remove the oil filler cap before removing the drain bolt. I asked him why, and he said it eliminated some vacuum in the crankcase so that the drained oil would flow out more smoothly and completely. Same principle as modern gas cans. You can take the cap off the cans pour spout, and gas will pour, but not smoothly. However open the small vent cap on the can first, then take the cap off the pour spout, and the gas will then pour much more freely out of the can.

I thought I would post this small step for those just starting DIY maintenance, as well as those that might not have a Shop Manual. I imagine this will be "old news" and "second nature" to all the other dinosaurs out there like me.

I'm not very technologically savvy so I do have one quick question... If I get an ECU flash will I have to do that before or after installing a power commander 5 and mapping it?

I've been up all night reading all the threads about how great these tires are, but all the references about where to buy them seem to be way out of date. The websites i've hit up seem to sell Michelin PR3's, but not in our size (especially the front tire), and my dealership has even said they can't get them. for those of you that use them all the time, where the heck are you buying them? Are they getting discontinued?

hi

I have a 2013 and I am wondering if a black front fender from a 2104 would fit my bike?

I'm sorry if this is in the forum somewhere.

Thanks

HW

Guards are typically used on cruisers, and sliders are typically used on sport bikes, but the CB is right in between. I see both guards and sliders used on them in pictures, and it seems to be a matter of preference. Does one have a clear advantage over the other in terms of dollars spent vs. protection achieved? are there other advantages of one over the other?

most all threads i found on here were about folks installing guards, so it seems like the forum folks typically prefer guards. on the whole, it seems like guards and sliders are not that far apart in price. What's really going on between these two choices?