With the temperatures here being in the high 90's and a heat index of 103+ for the past few days, I have limited my riding to the early morning hours, arriving back home with it around 85 degrees. I have a 65 mile loop that includes an elevation change of 800 ft within 3 mile stretch and several switchbacks, long sweepers, several left right left right curves and virtually no traffic. I only saw 5 cars during the ride today.

I also tried out a new cushion both days, taking out the bladder of my Air Hawk and replacing it with a same shape mempory foam with a cutout about 3 inches wide and 4 inches long in the rear where my tailbone would be. It made a tremendous difference and I think i could now easily do 125 to 150 miles without needing to stop.

Mileage yesterday was 54.5 and 55.7 today. Average speed was probably 45
This is a 2017 Versys 650

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Objective:
Installing Skene P3 rear visibility/brake lights mounted along the sides of the license plate. I'd like to run the wires for the lights along the same route that the tail light wiring follows.

Easy enough to get the wire through the hole in the tail light mechanism and into the opening of the channel. But I'm not having success getting the wire all the way through to the other side (under the seat/top of the fender). Here's the channel under the fender.



Here's where the tail light wire comes out under the seat latching mechanism area.



Before I go further down this rabbit hole of taking off the fender, I thought I'd check here to see if anyone else has experience running a wire through this same channel/route. I'm assuming that if I follow the fender removal process, I'll see the opening of the metal channel and be able to run the wires. But, wondering if I have to do the complete fender removal or if there's a way to access it enough through some partial steps.

Thanks in advance for any help!

Sorry below information applies to 2017 and later models.

I created this post to help other riders prepare a minimum list of mandatory tools required for unexpected repairs during road trip.
All mentions items must be able to fit under the seat except for the air pump.

Electrical issue(s) such as a "No Start" or "No Cranking".
-I have attached a simple hand-drawn copy of the "Starting" and "Ignition" circuits which I copied from the official HONDA Repair Manual.
-Plus a 11x17 copy of the full wiring diagram - which I cannot include due to copyright protection.
-Note: the items above are sealed in a plastic bag (waterproof) and stored under the seat.
-A few feet of electrical tape.

Tubeless Tire puncture Repair Kit
-A plug repair kit (includes the following: a "Reamer", Plug "Insert" tool, a tube of Rubber glue, a knife and a few extra plugs. (see attachment).
-A 90 degree air valve adaptor.
-A compact tire pressure gauge.
-A compact pump is recommended and a separate Tire pressure gauge.

Wrench
-See list of wrenches for different repair.
-Note: For the 22 & 17mm wrenches (Front & Rear tire removal), I cut & got rid of the open end section of the wrench & bent it to use as a tire breaker from the rim. (see attachment).
-The 2 bigger wrenches fits in the the designated U-lock space. (Sorry Peking Duck, I know that you own a U-lock).

Swiss Army Knife
-It includes a plier, knife and other assortment of tools.

Flashlight
-A modified flashlight with 2 external wires that can be hooked up to the 12v battery.
-This can also be used as a flashlight.
-It can also be used to troubleshoot for electrical short circuit.

Spark Plug socket & 1 spark plug.
Due to the exorbitant spark plug price, I carry a previously used (still in good condition) spark plug.


Air plugs
A few extra ear plugs.






more pictures

Rode yesterday for hours, made several stops and the bike started just fine. Last night, stopped for gas and the bike won't start, no juice on the display or gauges, does not turn over. Nothing. Then I jumped it from my car battery. It started up. As soon as I disconnect the jumper cable, totally dead. I tried again and kept the jumper cables on for 30 minutes. Disconnected and once again, totally dead. Is this simply a dead battery or something else? Thanks for any/all advice!

Hello Cb 1100 frined s,
I was lucky last night whern I pulled the Cb1100 to ride , every thing fine , until the head light died on me (both the hi and low beams), bike was at idling before even moving .prior to that like twice it started blinking on me and then completely dark. every thing else including the gage and rear running lights are ok , the only strange thing is that hi and low beam not working both and Also the blue light at gage i also on for both hi and low beam . what could it be ? I am thinking fuse , is there a fuse box for CB1100 and where, I am going to try to find the OEM light that I replaced with
the expensive direct plug and go replacement one from ADVmonster .but before doing that do you think it might be something more than light or fuse ?
Thank you
Ride safe /Ride long

This is a great community so I'd like you all to offer my wife your condolences/congratulations for joining the club that so many of us are in. After a little over a year on the road as a licensed rider, and a few thousand miles, she's finally had her first "real" crash.

She performed a textbook lowside on a tight corner in Johns Island, SC on her Triumph Street Twin. Seems as though she came in just a bit too hot and didn't get back on the throttle in time to pick the bike back up, drastically exceeding the max lean angle of the bike. by the time her pegs started dragging she was no longer carrying enough momentum to stay upright, and executed a short belly luge into the grass and dirt just off the road. no serious impact, no broken bones, but the bike is going to have a righteous insurance claim on it and she did suffer a pretty serious meat-crayon style injury on her left knee.

She's currently bandaged at home and planning on ways to better protect herself and the bike. quite frankly she has some kevlar armored pants in her closet already but chose not to wear them because they're too heavy and hot for 95 degree weather. It wasn't lost on her that had she been wearing them she wouldn't even have seen the inside of an ambulance. her jacket, made of the same material, looks almost perfectly undamaged . She's planning on having me help her pick otu and install a full set of protective attachments for her triumph. Crash bars, shorter mirrors, clamp sliders for the mufflers, axel sliders, everything.

So, she's in the club now, and I'd say she's a BAMF and an all around tough lady.

I wonder whether the MotoGP fans amongst us enjoyed yesterday’s race as much as I did. It’s almost sad that Fabio Quateraro’s well-deserved win was overshadowed by the most extraordinary performance from Marquez. How he survived that tour of the kitty litter early in the race defies comprehension, but his ride after that was simply unbelievable.

He’s lucky, I suspect, that all he did was fracture his humerus. I hope it doesn’t cruel his chance of another world championship in this peculiar year.

My large Plexistar National Windshield had many various size scratches from when my CB1100 fell over in the gravel a couple years ago. Ran across the this web page that described how to repair scratch damage. Tired it ... IT WORKED. Super happy with results.
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Web page: https://www.acmeplastics.com/content/how...lexiglass/
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I used the 800 + 1200 wet dry sand paper suggestion, following up wit the Novus 3, 2, 1 products. Got Novus kit on Amazon for $19 ... they give you a lot of product ... for my many scratches I only used maybe 1/10 of their product.

It has been just under 23 months since my accident, and I only just recently touched the bike for the first time, started it and started replacing the scratched up bits.

I told myself I would never ride again as the pain, realization of easy death, disability, loss of function or limb became real and immediate in the blink of an eye.

The hospital bill- and mind you after I came to some blurred consciousness in the back of an ambulance at the scene, I refused treatment and they released me on the side of the road.... my wife picked me up and insisted I go... because as the shock wore off the pain set in- was over $25,000 even after the insurance worked it down.

I had said even then that I would fix the bike and finalize dyno numbers on the new Guhl ECU... but stayed away for a long time.

Funny how time does indeed heal wounds to an extent. Part of me wants to ride. But a big part of me says don’t do it stupid!

Anyway....when I first dynoed, before even having a way to modify fuel- I tested the ‘14, ‘17, and TSR airbox inlets.

The TSR did indeed make a gain at higher revs (but did lean out more than I would like so don’t run it without adding fuel).

When I hit 100whp before the Guhl ECU- naturally with all the time to think since, I bounced some ideas around.


The TSR makes more power but I could notice a little noise from it that I did not care for.

So I thought - how do I get rid of that noise, and either maintain power or make more?

I watch EBay for cheap parts.. I’ve done this on many bikes and cars before and you can learn from looking at spare parts and see tweaks, as well as have a spare set to put back on if you or the next owner ever wanted to go back to stock.

I was able to buy a complete airbox, both sections, with horns, for 35 shipped. Sold.

In looking inside, and can’t believe I didn’t notice this already- the air filter seals to both sides of the housing.

Meaning there is no reason the bike can’t breath from the other side as well, both sides at once, and still filter the air same as factory.







OK- technically someone could simply punch a big hole in the left hand side of the airbox and filter and be done. (Add fuel!!)


But I have time, and want to mitigate and noise that could bother me.

Soo... back to my roots.. from my dirt bike days 30 years ago... back then I never would have imagined I’d use these soo long in the future, but honestly I should put them on some of my cars...






Just drill a 1 inch hole and pop em in.

They are foam filtered but not to the same degree so they say to insert in a ‘pre-filtered’ area. This is not a concern with what I am doing as the airflow from these is before the regular filter on the bike.












Then make a starter hole so I can cut out the center circle on the filter-







And since I am taking the TSR off, I will hedge my airflow bet on the stock intake -




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