Ok, had to share this one, 'cause I'm sort of surprised how well it worked out.

I'm now obsessed with camera positioning on my helmets for the best forward-facing view. Maybe I've been watching too many moto-vloggers on YouTube like Itchy Boots. My initial intention for mounting a camera was just to record footage of my commute incase something bad happens.

My Scorpion 420, which I detailed in another post, does not have a single square inch that isn't a compound curve or angle, and the visor is a center-grab. My only option was to stick the camera on the side. It was ok, but after looking at the footage, I got a large portion of the side of the helmet.

Looking at a few YouTube videos where people made custom-fit GoPro mounts with epoxy, I figured it couldn't be that hard. In my last job, I used JB Water Weld to make all kinds of fixtures and mounts for trade show displays.

Here is my project in pictures. Tested it out this morning, and it was great to have a clear forward view. The camera is slightly to the right of center, so I can reach up with my left hand to open and close the visor without touching it.

I grabbed the photo from my ride in this morning. It shows the lovely freeway widening project underway on the 405, and I caught this loader in mid-dump into the truck.

I'm a bit torn about my upcoming suspension upgrades and wanted to see if anybody could offer cogent advice. I'd initially planned to follow in some others footsteps and upgrade my front forks using the '17 cb1100 set since they bolt right on with no issues. However, It was posed to me that I should just change to upgraded springs and change the oil and it would achieve equivalent results after some adjustments. Is this true? For what reason would somebody replace the entire fork if this was an option? what else can i do to improve my front suspension without replacing it? primarily i'm interested in dampening on country roads and corner stability.

A good friend of mine bought his first bike with 14000 kms in a mint condition...
Any issues in general, what to wach for, any essential inputs are more than welcomed.
I will see his bike next week.
TY

perfection

https://www.bikeexif.com/kawasaki-w650-desert-sled

look at the beautiful lines and tank shape, the classic fenders, the pipes...perfection

I think my 2014 6 speed K10 is a Japanese import (has Japan spec HyperPro shocks) and as a result has a kph only speedometer which I would like to change to a mph or combined mph/kph version. I have no issue leaving the trip in km. UK law says that the speed has to be in mph, hence the importer has carefully coloured out the k of the km/h to disguise the calibration.

Easiest way would be to change the speedo face plate for one from a used speedo or have the current one re-printed with the appropriate scale(s).

Any suggestions to where I can get this done (or does anyone have a spare speedo?).

Thanks in advance.

Just saw this Associated Press photo in my newsfeed.....looks like a CB from the bit that is visible
Hope folks in FL are OK

Special Rlet shirt (I think EmptySea and Inhouse Bob teamed up on this one)
Special CB1100 Re-creation shirt by Steve SS 2 Wheels
First rally 2015 North Carolina
2nd rally 2016 Virginia
3rd rally 2017 Arkansas
4th rally 2018 Kentucky
5th rally 2019 West Virginia
6th rally 2020 Pennsylvania

where to next year? I need another shirt lol

Just a heads up if anyone didn't know or experience information to the effect that 100% do not use ANY valve extension on your wheel unless you have a metal valve stem. I had (on my RV) a rubber valve stem "explode" open on the shaft - split horizontally because I had a simple 2" 45 degree extender attached. No need for long story, but my metal valve stem was replaced without my knowledge. As I did some investigating, some on MCs use them. - DON'T unless you upgrade valve stem to metal!

So I received my Honda filter, O-ring, drain plug washer, and Hubris Oil. Yeah, I got the 10W-40 but don't flame me for that! It was time for my first CB1100 oil change.
Back story: my 2013 is a recent purchase with 3,000mi. on it. I've put almost 500 miles on it in a week or two. The previous owner had very fresh oil in it, but I didn't know what oil was in there (surely it wasn't Hubris), it was a little over filled, and the filter definitely wasn't up to my standards. Why people tighten oil filters with a wrench is beyond me...
Anyway, here's my procedure, and you're going to re-read this part once you see the last photo attached:
Southern California summertime heat. I rode the bike for about 10 fairly aggressive miles to really warm the engine. I backed it into my garage, put the bike on the center stand, loosened the filler cap, and had the hot oil flowing out of there within five minutes. It flowed out very quickly. I was pleased. I messed around, letting it drain fully, and got the materials I would need to remove the oil filter. I hadn't done it before so I covered the pipes with aluminum foil to direct it into a smaller receptacle when I removed the filter.
With the filter off I wiped all of the surfaces clean (using a pair of old, but laundered, cotton boxer shorts).
I checked the main drain hole at this point. It had stopped draining of course, but I had a plan. I reinstalled the drain plug finger tight and removed the large oil collection container. I pushed it off the center stand and began leaning the bike as far as I could comfortably, first left then right. I used the side stand and moved to the right side of the bike so I could lean and hold it at an angle. Why? Well this is a wide, 4 cylinder engine with many places for oil to sit and hide when level. That's a good thing, but I was trying to get the old oil out.
I noticed our engines have a definite little sump area that drains to the plug at the bottom. How much extra oil do you think I was able to get down there with my leaning procedure? See that last picture. Those three little cups were now released when I pulled the drain plug for the second time. Yep.
I presaturated the new OE filter and hand tightened it in place. That's another thing I'm particular about, the pre-fill part. Then I put the new washer on the drain plug and tightened it.
4 quarts of Hubris and I'm at the upper range of the oil window after a nice little ride. It shifts better now, of course.
Moral of the story, for me at least: do your own maintenance, use your noggin, and have fun being a perfectionist. It's only a motorcycle after all.
BTW, those little Solo cups you see the oil in are 2oz. each.

Hey, all,

I'm on a tight budget, but I might need to break the piggy bank for today's Blipshift shirt: https://www.blipshift.com/

This design is only available today! Take a look.