At the rally we were trying to figure out how old a particular tire was on a members bike. Non of us standing there were absolutely sure how to check that. We knew tires were dated, but for some reason had no idea where it was (and couldn't find it) or knew exactly how to read it. So yesterday I went down to my local shop and talked to the head tech. There was a Honda PC 800 on the bench next to his, coincidentally, in for new tires, so we walked over to that bike and he showed me. There was a small oval on the side of the tire with a 4 digit code.

This one said 4709

He explained that that tire was manufactured in the 47th week of 2009 (no wonder it was in for tires, the tires on it were 11 years old). The first 2 digits indicate the week, and the last 2 digits are the year that the tire was made. Been like this since 2000 he said.

So if you wonder how old your tires are? Look for that 4 digit code inside a small oval imprinted in the tire.

It appears the new Pirelli Angel GT on the back of my CB is marked 5119 which means it was made in the 51st week of 2019, (or Dec 2019) so the tire is about 10 months old at this point. Well within the recommended 5 year time frame for tires.

New pic being posted ... see post #6 below

Hi. I’m new here and I wanted to ask you guys a question. I’ve got an CB1100RS and I noticed a strange whizzing high pitched noise coming from the left hand side of the engine. I can hear it clearer if I spread the left leg. Did you guys notice it? Could it be the starter? Thanks

Alain Lee and I rode our beloved CB to Ural Peterborough/Cycle Salvage, Ontario.
https://cyclesalvageparts.ca/URAL-Parts/



Ural is gone. They have other sorts of equipment and Japanese motorcycles, Arctic Cat ++ grave yard.



As we parked our CB in front, we heard some whispering and exited moto voices
......we got some visitors....

We entered the store and quickly moved to its large backyard filled with salvage Hondas, Suzukis, Yamahas and Kawasakis..










The bikes, once proudly roaring through the roads from end of 70s and up were sadly and silently sitting in a few different rows, mostly stripped to "their knees" with parts missing...sign of accidents, misuse, abuse, age and corrosion are taking their final toll...
This winter, when the snow blanket covers them up again and spring of '21 emerges them once more, it could be the final days for most of them..
One would pick an old part, give it a new life, but these bikes are just too old to attract more frequent visitors.

Then we went into the basement furnished with rows of shelves filled with a variety of smaller parts, carbs FI, clusters, lights, shocks, switches, harnesses, etc...





Upon staring our bikes, we revved them up a few times as a sign of respect, saying good bye to these great Japanese iron horses...and once more we heard:
....our visitors are leaving us, sigh

Anyone know if there is an OEM Honda brake and clutch lever in BLACK (whole lever, not just the beloved RLET) which will work on the CB1100? If one not made specifically for the CB1100, is there one from another bike which will work without modifications? Hoping to avoid the aftermarket MIC (made in China) levers. Thanks in advance.

Ok, been playing around wayyy too much tonight, and I've enjoyed the friendly RLET banter, but maybe it's time to get serious???

I might just order a few...

Grey


Distressed grey




Have to play a bit with the lettering so it shows better


Or with levers


Interested? My first round with this was a bit pricey @ $28, but I can look into other sites.

Hey there guys,

Contemplating getting the dealer to do my VC check and adjust. Got some quotes and looks like it’s gonna be about $550 just for the check. If the valves need to be adjusted it would be another 250 or so. So about 850 or so. Is this normal? I understand it’s a time consuming job...

There is an Independant mechanic that I sometimes use who would do the job for a few hundred less...

Honestly I’m leaning on just biting the bullet I guess. My bike is at 11.5K. Is everyone here adjusting every 8K or waiting till 16K? Or not at all until something happens?

I have some slight weeping on one of the chrome cylinders. I mean maybe a drop every 200mi. But it’s intermittent. Some days it’s just clear.

2c appreciated!

New to me CB11, high mileage, so let's go through it and sort everything out. How hard could that be? Well, harder than it should when it comes to finding the right parts.

The Isa alloy sprocket it arrived with was pretty shot, much as expected, so not wanting to mess around I ordered a full chain and sprocket set from a UK source which included a Renthal hard anodised alloy rear socket. In a nutshell, it doesn't fit.

The Renthal sprocket has the correct 112mm bore with 6x M8 bolt mounting on a 160mm PCD, whereas the worn out Isa sprocket has 6 M10 bolts on a 156mm PCD.

Photos show the cush drive hub, adapter ring and Isa sprocket fitted.

Anyone have any clues to what I should order and where from?
The wheel has an Excel rim & stainless steel spokes which I'm not sure is standard either?

So, the story goes, traded my 2010 VFR and got the 2014 CB1100 August 1. Test ride consisted of around the block essentially, and on an artery just to put it through the paces/gears. 2 miles ridden. Just put a tag on from another Honda to get the inspection done (while I waited). 14 miles round trip. Then had to wait two weeks for my appointment with the Motor Vehicles to get registered and titled.
Bike came already with the Cozy seat, SW-MOTECH engine guards, R&G Radiator Cover, R&G Fork Sliders (not installed), clear plastic tank protector (can't even tell it is there...never saw that before), and a Puig Windscreen, all from the previous owner. The bike looks new and only 5900 miles when bought.
Since then I went hog wild and ordered a ton of stuff for it based mostly on faith and very quick ride impressions: Delkevic full exhaust and CF 14" can, PCV w/ Autotuner, Galfer SS lines front and rear, EBC HH front pads, GIVI chrome rack and trunk (47NN plus backpad, top box rack, and universal Monokey mount), K&N air filter, and some other bits.
Well, then was drowning in work that consumed my nights and weekends. So there the bike sat unrideable as I removed the stock exhaust.
So, finally was able to get the oil changed (it did not need it) and installed a FLO SS reusable filter (using car oil - see debate in another thread), and installed the GIVI trunk system (see review in another thread). And there the bike sat.
I decided to do the exhaust in stages, wanting to ensure everything was right. I first dry fit the full system (just reused the stock exhaust manifold Cu crush washers...on purpose), and just plug in the O2 sensor port. This was a fit check. Of course there was loud sound eminating from the headers connection to ports (expected), and the check engine light (expected) with no O2 connection to the stock ECU. I noticed a pretty good increase in the response of the motor uncorked, and the fueling was actually not that bad with no compensation. And yes, I also had to create a small aluminum bracket to attach the mid-pipe to the stock mount (as the Delkevic has a design flaw there). It basically is about 2: log 1" bar stock with two holes drilled 1" apart. Maybe 10-15 miles.
Lightly browned headers.
Then the bike sat.
LD weekend came and went with my nose buried in the laptop, and well as the following weekend, missing the nicest weather of the year here in MD. The bike crying out for attention with each pass by.
Finally this past weekend got up at 4:00a Saturday and worked to 8:00p, and again on Sunday too.
I was able to disassemble the exhaust completely, Cu crush this time, refit everything. I was able to extract the O2 sensor from the stock headers with some effort. What a PITA. Honda saw fit to surround it with a fairly thick heat shield that prevents a tool from getting in there to remove it. I started out with a Dremel and stone bits, but after going through three bits, I finally decided to get an old 17mm wrench and shave off width to get it in there, a couple squirts of penetration oil and wacks with a hammer and it popped free. The Delkevic comes with a welded port to accept the stock O2, which I installed. Note that the Dynojet add on to the PCV Autotuner comes with its own wide-band O2 that DOES NOT fit the stock thread, but they are nice enough to give you a bung that fits it for you to weld on yourself (yeah, right, more on that later).
I did NOT use RTV, in case I want/need to remove things for the wide-band later. The exhaust look terrific. The sound is enhanced, but not overbearing. It sounds great when you get on it.
I also drained the brake fluid from both front and rear, and installed Galfer SS lines both. I like to use these because they give you much better feel at both levers. I also cleaned up the calipers after removing them and the front wheel with brake cleaner and toothbrush, and installed EBC HH sintered pads for better stopping power and feel. I cleaned up the clips, lubed everything with hi-temp moly-graphite grease, polished the pad caliper pins (surprisingly crusty), and filled and bled with Valvolene DOT 4 full synthetic fluid. While I had the wheel off, I reinstalled with the R&G fork sliders given to me by the previous owner. Nice, but not sure I would bother if it wasn't free.
Cleaned chain and waxed with Maxima chain wax. I have a method I use for this I have to make a thread on that I think makes this unwanted chore pretty straight forward, quick, and not messy.
Installed PCV using stock O2, downloaded map (CB1100 with Yoshimura and stock air filter). Total PITA to remove the tank. Hard to reach and hard on fingertips to pinch the fuel line connector bit (on the 2014 mine has a green clip, not a white one). Took me 20 frustrating minutes to figure that one out. The guy on the Dynojet vid glosses over that and running the harness. It is a pain to fish the harness from the battery compartment to under the tank requiring some screwdrivers and leverage to create just enough room to fish them through. Otherwise installing the PCV is a cinch and just requires that inline 10-connector harness inserted and the PCV grounded to the battery negative terminal. While in there, I put in a Battery Tender cable and fished it to aft of the side cover. Tied everything off with zips.
So now after 20 hours, it is getting late, and starting to look like I might not get to ride it again. Finished up and all tools away, shower, and suited about 5:00p. Rolled out bike and guess what? It would not start! Damn! So just so happens due to time limitations, I left off the side covers and after nearly draining the battery, said to myself, what did you do wrong? It was then that I realized I failed to reconnect the injector connector. Snap, and the engine fires.
So after seven weeks of delays and wrenching, I am finally on my way.
So now, this is actually my FIRST RIDE. So I took to the back roads and had them mostly to myself. Only a scant few passes needed to own the road. Well, when overtaking, I always wave after so people don't get PO'ed.
Got the bike through the gears, redlined in safe spots, cornered hard and put the new, improved motor/exhaust through the paces.
Just saw a thread about how the CB tamed others down and found themselves going 5 under. Uhmm. I know this bike is not meant to be an open class SB, and that is not why I bought it. BUT, this bike is supremely capable, and an absolute hoot! The roar from the exhaust from 3K rpm up is intoxicating. The fueling using the PCV with that map and stock O2 is actually VERY GOOD. I think I only noted one fart on one rolloff. It did not take long for the pads to bed, and the feel was superb. The bike pulls greatly from 3K up in every gear. While it did not feel like it was threatening to wheelie, it definitely feels like at least mid-90's hp on my butt dyno. It is definitely enough to have mostly unlimited fun.
The only drawback I see, after these upgrades, is the suspension is somewhat lacking. Nothing $400 can't solve out back, but to do Gold Valves and springs in the front, what with drilling and total disassembly is a total pain! I am not as worried about the cost, which is likely going to run $3-400 in the front, it just the work required.
This bike is a keeper! I have a Superhawk, about the same hp and slightly lighter, I am selling now. This bike can give me all the fun I need. If I want to cruise, it will do they easily. If you want to get on it, it is surprisingly a capable ride. Some notable vibes in the bars, but nothing that numbed me.
I did get the autotuner, and I have yet to install the K&N. I am wondering if it needs it, and if it will ruin the otherwise very good fueling. I really don't see any significant deficiencies with the full Delkevic (left baffled), and the PCV with the Yosh map and stock O2. It has me wondering whether it is going to be worth it to put in the K&N and Autotuner. Now that the PCV is in, it does not look like too much effort to put it in, and I already own it and the K&N, but will have to see.
One other thing. I abandoned the USB port harness because the Otter RAM does not really fit the bars, and the phone would block gauge visibility. There is not much room unless I get some kind of tower. I will have to investigate that.
Overall, I am very happy with this bike. It might look old school, but it has a very modern feel injected and all the power you need for the street. Once underway, the pork dissipates in typical Honda fashion. I am glad I got this bike!
Anyway, hope you liked my first ride report. It was a long time in coming. On abandoned back roads, I was in heaven to really be able to finally ride the bike.

The turn indicator switch (the thumb actuated one on the left grip) on my 2013 feels a little... un-Honda, kinda like there's some dried lubricant in there, but I suspect it's just in need of some attention to make it more silky. Has anyone done something like service the switch? Thank you
Scot