I am thinking about doing CB1100 valve adjustment myself because local quality motoshops are few (in San Diego) and the quality ones have huge backlogs. Also want to remove outer engine covers (clutch, etc) and front fork tubes to refinish. Looking for a suggested list of workshop tools I should buy to accomplish all of this. Assume torque wrench, but stuck after that

Recently, I bought a new Scorpion 420 on clearance, since the one I have is really comfy. I never liked any of the graphic designs this helmet is offered in, so I didn't care much that the new one was a few shades of dark grey and dark tan. But, I normally go with white or bright colors for safety.

I picked up a few sheets of reflective orange vinyl for a project in my warehouse, and got a little extra to experiment with on my helmet to brighten it up a bit. Here's what I came up with.

On my current crop of plain white helmets, I've gone with decals to dress them up in classic racing liveries. For the orange, I'm torn between going McLaren or Jagermeister.

Way back when decisions were being made about the 2020 CB1100 Eastern States rally, Inhouse Bob offered to produce the official t-shirt. He offered it not only to those attending, but to others as well.

I thought to present one to each of the 5 really decent Australians riding CB1100s I've met through this forum. So I ordered 6.

Due to that virus it took a while for them to arrive, but eventually they did and, after a further delay that was entirely my responsibility, they were distributed to their final owners. I delivered the last one yesterday.

Here's the point of this story. Bob has refused to provide me with details of his bank account so I can steal all his money pay for the t-shirts. He has also refused to let me pay for the postage which was more than the cost of the t-shirts.

Thank you very much Bob. I and my fellow Australian members really appreciate your generosity. It's yet another example of the ethos that has grown around this forum of which I'm proud to be a member.

I like this 2021 w800 in blue


https://www.totalmotorcycle.com/motorcyc...saki-w800/

I’ve been obsessing over adding another Honda to my garage for awhile now as I’m concerned my CB is a little lonely out there. The two bikes I’m thinking about are the RC51 and the 5th or 6th gen VFR.

Do any of you have experience with either machine? How did it compare to your time with the CB?

Thanks! Tom


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've heard from an undisclosed source that Bike Bandit may be closing its doors shortly, or at a minimum, selling off the business.

I'm not suggesting that any outstanding orders may not be filled, but just be aware in case you're considering buying something from them.

I did a search, but the last posts on this subject were several years old, and lithium batteries have probably evolved since then.

My 2017 YUASA battery is giving up the ghost, and I am thinking about a lithium replacement. Cost is not a factor in my decision, but from earlier posts I gather that there is some concern over reliability. Unlike a led-acid or glass mat battery, lithium batteries tend to fail suddenly and without warning. OTHO, they are lighter and are resistant to self-discharging, unlike lead-acid batteries.

Does anyone have recent experience with a lithium battery, or an opinion?

Hi there,

I own a 17'RS, with double walled stainless exhaust 4-2. I thought stainless meant stain-less, but I was naive...

I've seen some on the chromed rim around the headlight, and a lot on the exhaust headers. (see pics)

First I saw it, and I thought "Oh, no, thats rust and corrosion", but I got an scotch-brite and tried to scrub it off on a small "sample area", and it's just surface "dirt".

The problem is that the scotch-brite also scratches the polished stainless (and I guess it will remove the chrome from the headlight rim), so...

What do you guys recommend to scrub this kind of surface-rust without damaging the nice-shining-polished surface below?

(A wet rug with WD40 does nothing)

Another Forum member asked about some particulars of a gear shift modification I posted in http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=2938.

I like having the shift lever above my foot, others have their foot angled out alongside, even some above the shifter.

The first pic shows the foot positions above the shifter for downshift, and below for upshift. Changing between means you move your toes around the shift pedal tip, and articulate your ankle through a wide range of motion, about 35-40 degrees.

What I did was to add a little tab to the shifter for downshifts only, (seen in the pic above in red oval). The rubber shift lever tip would be for upshifts, though you could still use it for downshifts. The advantage is your foot is in the most comfortable position, and just a flick of the foot for up and down shifts. The feel becomes very natural and intuitive.

The next pic shows the ones I made for my 2013, then for my 2014 which I moved to my 2017, and the last for my Triumph Bonneville.


I made mine from scrap pieces, drilled into the shifter, and put a bend in the tab portion so it accommodates various shoe thicknesses. The bend is about 30mm from the drilled hole, but the measurements are just approximations.


You could bend the tab to suit, or even rotate the strap for best fit. I've used both 5mm and 6mm bolts and nuts. The rubber or the covering on the tab is not necessary at all. If I were to make another, I would move the bolt hole 10mm forward to give more clearance on the backside.

I need to remove the engine covers and replace them with a set I'm having powder coated and need to get the covers off the engine. Don't want to pry or pound on anything so I've got an idea. Can't I tap some threads in a few of the mounting bosses in each cover and have these act as pushers to get the covers off?