sold my CB1100 DLX and have these parts. Asking for $240. located in CO, USA

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balkanhound has advertised a beautiful 2017 EX for sale on the old forum, http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread....#pid356001

While visiting my daughter in N Ft Myers Florida today I spotted a 2017 CB1100 parked at an apartment complex behind a Racetrack gas station.  I think that's only the fifth that I've stumbled onto in nearly 10 years of owning mine.  Perhaps I should go buy a lottery ticket!

Back in August/2024, my friend Rick & I went down to Elkhart, Indiana to test drive Royal Enfield bikes. We had ridden older models and weren’t fans, but thought “hey, lets go down and ride some bikes, and they had lunch”. 
We both came away impressed, very impressed. The 650’s looked to be well designed & engineered. Smooth torquey power and we liked the classic styling. 
A month later Rick finds a 2022 in Jackson, Michigan with only 250 miles. He ended up buying it. 
Another month passed and we found another in East Lansing. Two owners, 108 miles…. hmmm. 
We hooked up the trailer and negotiated a price and haul it home. First owner bought to exhibit, second owner found out she was expecting soon after buying the bike. 
The bike was stored in an open barn. The mice, squirrels and birds did their thing. Took me a couple of washings to make my way through some of the mess. Air filter was home sweet home for a family of mice, couple of hoses were nibbled on, and there was a walnut carefully stored on the swingarm. 

Will post a photo once I figure how?

Not sure if I shared this little tech-tip or not. Recently while giving my bike a good going-over and engine detail, I noticed that the protective plastic-dip coating on the clips that secure the wire bundle that runs under the right side of the engine was peeling off due to age and engine heat. 

I removed both of the clips and peeled off the rest of the coating. Then, I put some heat shrink tubing on the clips to make a new protective coating, and reinstalled the clips. An easy fix. Might want to give your clips a look-see!

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I'm doing lots of maintenance on the bike and want to replace the chain and sprockets. The chain and back sprocket are sort of clear, but the front is a mystery. My service manual is no help. It shows how to reassemble everything but has nothing on how to take it all apart. I tried turning the book upside down but that didn't help much. 
So, do I have to disassemble the clutch hydraulics to remove the plate covering the front sprocket? I feel like if I remove those assorted bolts holding the plate in place, all my clutch juice will spill out on the ground.
Has anyone done this surgery and can give me a rough tutorial?
Thanks in advance!

I purchased a 2014 DLX that came with aftermarket drop pegs. I would like to replace these with the factory OEM pegs.

I've purchased the right peg from eBay, but haven't been able to find a left one that isn't attached to the entire bracket.

Anyone have their takeoffs gathering dust in a box that they would entertain selling me?

Last night, I finally got around to putting together a simple video from the Distinguished Gentleman's Ride. 
Keep in mind, I'm using one ancient GoPro, and the Playskool built-in Windows video editor. 

I left out the parts where the group I was riding got lost in a small neighborhood in Long Beach, and just sort of winged it to get back on track to the final destination. 

The Greater San Francisco Bay Area is loosely defined by geographic regions. The locals refer to them as “Bays:”

The North Bay starts at the San Francisco Peninsula and folds into the Napa and Sonoma wine regions.

The East Bay is the eastern region of the San Francisco Bay Area and includes cities along the eastern shores of San Francisco Bay and San Pablo Bay.

The South Bay is the southern region of San Francisco Bay and Southeast of the San Francisco Peninsula.

The West Bay is the peninsula between San Francisco and the South Bay.



Each area has wonderful motorcycle riding opportunities. This Thread is the first of a four-part series I will post about great rides in the Bay Area.

Today, I traveled from my Pleasanton, CA in the East Bay to the Moore Road Pier in the West Bay to see the Golden State Bridge. It is one-hundred-mile round trip.

https://www.yelp.com/biz/moore-road-pier-sausalito

Interstate 580 is a major thoroughfare that runs through a series of valleys and gentle hills. Rush-hour driving jams are common and a source of constant frustration, but the hills are environmentally protected between Pleasanton and Oakland. The weather is generally mild, but it can get hot from time to time. It was 65 degrees when I left at 10:00 AM.



The interstate is well maintained. When all goes well, it is a 70-mph ride into Oakland.



In Oakland, the scenery changes from rural and pretty to urban and industrial. But yet there is still beauty to the odd tapestry of bridges, highways, blue skies, and the ocean. The roads and bridges twist and turn delightfully.



The Bay Bridge connects the mainland with the San Francisco Peninsula.



Although everything passes quickly because the posted speed limits are 70 mph, the views are sustained and stunning. All of the Mapping Tools will route you to Moore Road Pier. When you leave the interstate, the roads leading to Moore Road Pier twist and turn. You will feather a clutch and counter steer and enjoy every minute of the ride. When you arrive, the Golden Gate dominates the landscape:










Because this route is more of a local thing and not a tourist thing, parking is a little makeshift. That said, it was available on a glorious Sunday morning without any problems. If you like the path less taken, this view of the Golden Gate Bridge is for you. I would like to believe my CB1100 fit into the landscape nicely:



The engineering and ride of a CB1100 is perfect for Northern California. The weight and balance of the motorcycle is perfect for managing the speed of traffic and the wind coming off the ocean. The handling is outstanding for the variety of roads. At 52 miles per gallon, the cost of the trip was the best investment I have made in quite some time. I spent 60 minutes enroute, an hour at Moore Road Pier, and an hour to return home. Life is good.

Back in 2016, previous forum member Honda Lover posted a wonderful "how-to" eliminate fender rust and treat the underside:

http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread....ght=Fender

When I did a search within this forum (the .net), I don't find his post.  But the search did bring up others posts that referenced his work.  I've copied and pasted here so that perhaps a search within this forum accesses his work (see below).  

When I changed out tires on my 2017EX, I saw that rust had covered a good deal on the underside.  I've got the time to take this project on and am trying to do what Honda Lover did.

I've got the front fender off, it's easy to do and there was some rust but not too bad.  But I'm having a difficult time understanding one of the first steps to remove the rear fender.  

From the manuel: 
1. Remove batter cover (done)
2. Remove the rubber boot and disconnect the brake/tail light 3P connector



And it's the rubber boot that I'm not seeing.  

This is what my EX looks like: Is that semi-transparent thing the rubber boot?


But the brake/tail light 3P connector doesn't appear to lead to that, but rather down deep into unreachable recesses: that silver thing in the photo below, to the right of the red cable.


Removing the side cover isn't mentioned in the fender removal instructions from the manual, and doing so doesn't really help access.  

Anybody with an EX who has removed rear fender?  Is it the same for '13/'14 models and I'm just missing something?

Thanks.



How  to protect the undercoat on bare metal fenders
Honda Lover: 

If you haven't looked lately, our CB's wheel wells/under the fenders are bare metal and if you've been riding your CB for a few years there is a good chance at least some rust has started to set in. This was a thread discussion some time ago, however, I've listed out a few steps outlining the process for lining our under-fenders with a rubber spray liner that prevents and/or significantly reduces rust build up...
STEP 1. Parts needed for this job are
1. Appropriate tools to remove both fenders. I used a ratchet driver, along with Allen key tip to remove the side panels. Not much in the way of tools required to remove both fenders. Follow your service manual. It is fairly straightforward.
2. Materials list: Undercoating Spray, Rust Remover spray, wire brush, shop rags, painters tape/newspaper for masking, rubber shop gloves, large pieces of clean cardboard for staging areas. Thread locker, WD40 or equivalent, chrome polish and/or wax.
3. I used Rustoleum Rust Dissolver Spray Gel and Rustoleum Undercoating Professional Grade. Both Purchased at Autozone but any good automotive store should stock Rustoleum products. I found both products easy to apply, work with and was very satisfied with the results. 3M makes products like this as well.


4. Remove fender/s from bike. Be sure to set fenders top side down on a smooth/protected surface to avoid scratching the chrome top finish. Advise setting the fenders down on a piece of soft cardboard to prevent abrasion.

5. Using the wire brush firmly brush from side to side on the fenders underside removing any loose rust debris. Use a sand wheel bit with your drill if necessary. Fully rinse with warm water. Leave wet.
6. Apply Rust dissolver liberally to the underside of the fender/wherever rust is present. Ensure to do this in a ventilated area and wear rubber gloves. Be careful not to get the dissolver on painted or finished chrome parts. If you do, be sure to wipe up immediately.

7. Wait 20-30 minutes for remover to begin to dissolve/lift any Rust. 30 minutes worked well for me but this depends on the amount of Rust on the fenders.
8. After letting the fenders under-body soaking for a while, with the spray dissolver still on the fenders, use the wire brush to firmly scrub with short straight strokes on any visible rust. The Rust should fall away. Use more dissolver spray and repeat the process until ALL Rust is removed. The more Rust you remove here, the better the liner will adhere and the better longevity you will experience as far a Rust protection goes. I was able to remove ALL Rust.
9. Rinse with warm water and dry, BOTH VERY throughly. Ensure all the dissolver is off the finish. Allow the fenders to sit for at least 1 hour to ensure the chemical reaction subsides, giving the undercoating spray the best chance to adhere.


10. After thoroughly dry, use painters tape and newspaper to mask the top/ finished chrome sections of both fenders. Use small pieces of tape crumpled up into balls and lodge into any mounting screw holes to protect screw threads from excess liner spray. Take your time here to ensure 100% of the top/finished chrome surface is sufficiently covered.
11. Use 2 small blocks of wood to support both sides of each fender upright, with top/finished side on soft cardboard.
12. Shake Undercoating spray can for minimum 1 minute from the time you hear the mix ball starting to move. Apply in a well ventilated area and far enough from other items to avoid overspray. Hold can 12" from each fender and apply in even lateral strokes slightly overlapping with each pass. Rustoleum advises 2 coats minimum, however I applied 4. I found allowing 6 minutes between applying coats was best. I also found allowing each fender to dry for at least 4 hours before handling was best. (Rustoleum states 1 hour)


13. After removing all masking, wipe down the top chrome surface with a basic cleaner to prevent any glue, oils or other substance from bonding to the chrome surface.
14. Reinstall fenders. I always take this opportunity to treat all threads and hardware with WD40. Note, Honda does advise thread locker blue for front fender hardware in certain areas. Follow service manual torque specs as usual.
15. For you neat freaks out there, I applied 2 coats of chrome polish to each fender to restore the finish to showroom new..



From looking at your CB, no one will know anything was done however going forward you will have the peace of mind that Rust build up will be kept to a minimum depending on when and where you ride! Feel free to add other items or tips you feel I missed...