So, I’ve been invited to ride in a parade on the CB.  It sounds fun but I’m a bit concerned about riding an air cooled bike in almost standstill conditions.  Any experience or thoughts on the matter?  I know I have oil cooling but even that doesn’t help a ton with no moving air.

Hey everyone,
I'm back again with another question about the CB1100, in hopes that someone has the time to teach me more about the mechanical aspects of the great CB1100.
I recently came across a video comparing a modern CB1100 and a 1970s CB750 K Series. Both bikes are running what appear to be Wyvern-style exhausts, and visually, they’re quite similar. But when it comes to sound, there’s a clear difference: the CB750 has a raw, wild tone that I find incredibly appealing, while the CB1100 sounds more refined and subdued.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ckJwYVSpegk

This got me thinking:

What determines the sound characteristics of a motorcycle exhaust?
Besides fitting a reproduction Wyvern exhaust, is there a way to tune or modify the CB1100 to more closely match the CB750’s aggressive tone?
In the video comments, someone said:

"Sounds like a hotter cam to me. It would be cool to hear a 1100 with a similar cam profile."

Can anyone here explain:

• What exactly is a hotter cam?
  
• How does it affect the exhaust note, and engine behaviour overall?
  
• Would it be practical (or worthwhile) to fit a more aggressive cam on the CB1100 for sound and performance?
  
  

I'm new.  I don't have a CB1100, but I want one.

When I first purchased my CB1100EX, the motorcycle setup was absolutely perfect. I was able to ride for extended periods without any back pain, shoulder pain, or fatigue. The stock seat was comfortable. I was able to actuate the clutch, shifter, and brakes without any problems. And then the Tik-Toker incident occurred; everything changed for me.

The first thing I did when I left rehab was to mount my motorcycle. It was still comfortable, but the damage to my shoulder prevented me from extending my arm as I had done in the past. I also shrank a bit, literally losing a few inches of height. I still do not understand the physics of it, but eventually the physical therapist simply told me “You lost a couple of inches. Time to let it go because they are never coming back.” The hip and pelvis fractures also caused me to sit slightly differently on the motorcycle, too. My perfect setup was no more.

To reclaim the motorcycle, I ultimately decided I needed to raise the handlebars and pull them back slightly. I toyed with the notion of replacing the handlebars, but I decided that the cabling issues associated with a handlebar swap were too much. More importantly, I liked the stock handlebars and wanted to keep them.

I share this personal, slightly embarrassing story with you because other Members of the Forum may also be facing physical challenges like mine. Whether it is arthritis, injury, or the natural aspects of aging, our size and posture can change as we age. I hope this post may help anyone who is working through something similar or simply wants a slightly more neutral riding position than what a stock setup allows for. Handlebar risers are worthy of consideration.

As I began my research, I quickly learned that handlebar risers are not nearly as regulated as other motorcycle components. Because the handlebars and mounts are so key to handling and safety, I wanted a pair that had been certified by a credible source, were made of the finest materials, and fit the aesthetic of a CB1100. I found my risers in Germany. Here is a link:

https://www.motea-shop.com/en_us/handleb...6eN-LyXWSK

The Motea Risers were ABE Certified and capable of the performing well in a crash scenario. You can always count on the Germans for great engineering:







I was a little nervous installing the risers because I did not want to damage the most beautiful gas tank I have seen on any vehicle. To channel that angst, I compensated by focusing on details. Here is what I did:

Step 1: I staged the risers and assembled the tools I needed to complete the installation:



Step 2: I covered the gas tank with a furniture blanket:



Step 3: I loosely secured the handlebars to the motorcycle with ROK Straps:





Step 4: I removed the top portion of the stock handlebar riser:



Step 5: I cleaned the nasty gunk I uncovered by gentling sanding it with a 120-grit sanding block and then using rubbing alcohol to remove the residue:









Step 6: I attached the new handlebar risers. Note that the torque setting for the bolts is 23 nM (I love hearing the click of torque wrench )









Step 7: I checked all the cables and made sure that everything had the proper clearance. I also “turned” the handlebars far left and far right to make sure there was nothing restricting movement.



Step 9: I measured from the RLETs to the floor on both sides of the handlebar to make sure everything was level:



Step 8: My most crucial step was to reach out to an industry expert: The Ferret. I asked for guidance about the proper way to setup a motorcycle. The Ferret has set up hundreds of motorcycles and very graciously gave me the following advice. Using my iPad and some patience, I did exactly what the Ferret recommended:

“But the main thing is you can't change the relationship between the seat and the foot pegs so you change the relationship of the bars, levers, and mirrors. Starting with the bars. Put the bike on the centerstand if you can. Then loosen the four bolts that hold the handlebars on not all the way, but enough that you can move the bars. Sit on the bike and rotate the bars forward or back until they feel good to you, then tighten the bolts. Next ...  loosen the bolt that holds the clutch lever in place and rotate it down a bit. Again while sitting on the bike rotate the lever up until with straight wrist it just touches the bottom of your outstretched fingers. You don't want to cock your wrist up or down but straight (like superman flying lol) and the lever should just touch the bottom of your fingers. Tighten it down. Repeat with the brake lever. Then adjust the heads of your mirrors for a clear view. They may have to be readjusted a bit once you're off the centerstand. Everything should fall naturally into your hands when sitting on the bike, bars, and levers with straight lines from your shoulders to your fingertips. The main problem these days is the manufacturers like to pin the switches making adjustments difficult. So, there is only so much adjustment in them.”



The combination of the new risers and The Ferret’s skill and kindness has enabled me to return to an effortlessly ride. Thank you, Ferret.

I hope this detailed install process and setup guidance will help others.

Is there a reason why this new forum (and the earlier one) does not have a "First Unread Post" button? It's always been annoying that I must scroll down through all the posts that I've already seen just to get to the latest one.

Please be advised that we have completed the design and development work to allow for “Dark Mode” viewing on CB1100 Forum. That function is controlled by a toggle switch in the User CP profile.

To place your CB1100 Profile into dark mode, access the CB1100 Forum and Login with your credentials:



Click on the User CP link located below the CB1100 Header:



Click on Edit Options and then Select the option in the lower right hand corner of your screen that reads “Would you like to enable dark mode?” and then select Update Options:



Your profile will then be placed into Dark Mode Viewing on the CB1100 Forum:





Apple devices often require a Cache to be cleared for this kind of setting change to be made. If your device does not go into dark mode, clear your browser cache, reboot your device, access the Forum, and login again.

Note on phones, the Responsive Theme we have built assumes you will be viewing the Forum while holding your Phone in a landscape position.


If you wish to return to the default “Light Mode” viewing for the Forum, de-select the Dark Mode option, click on update profile, clear your cache, and restart your device.

Have a great day and be safe on your motorcycle.

David

“Physics is like politics. It puts real effort into finding imaginary forces.” 



This video discusses leaning position (lean, neutral, and counter lean) and how to determine the best option in a given situation.

A fascinating video on the physics of riding a motorcycle and the impact it has on mental health and awareness.

I know that any day I ride allows me to decompress, reset, and balance out from a stressful life. I hope the same is true for you.

Take care, David

”Hope is not a technique.” Truer words have never been spoken.   

I found this video on proper braking while cornering insightful and very helpful. I hope you do too. David

A few weeks ago I submitted a question about tires to Dunlop from their website "contact us" link thinking "hey, why not?". I assumed I would never get a response and quickly forgot about it until this morning, when a gentleman named Doug called me to answer my questions directly. This gist of the conversation went pretty close to what follows and I wanted to get it out here while it was still fresh in the interest of archiving the firsthand response from one of the Honda OEM tire manufacturers for our bikes.

I asked Doug why Dunlop no longer makes tires for the CB1100 domestically (USA) when it seems that forum members were still able to obtain them in overseas markets, specifically Australia based on what Cormanus had said in another post.

Doug explained that initial availability for tires in a non-standard size for a specific motorcycle falls solely on the motorcycle manufacturer, in this case, Honda. When Honda for example, creates a new model bike, they typically order an allotment of tires for that bike to be used during assembly. Honda then has the option to order additional allotments to cover things such as warranty issues. Doug stated that most motorcycle manufacturers normally order about a two year supply of tires to cover warranty issues and is what Honda did for the CB1100. The motorcycle manufacturer can also choose to order additional tires for dealership (OEM) sales, which in the case of CB1100's sold in the USA, Honda elected not to not to do. Tires sold by US dealerships came from that 2 year warranty allotment.

I asked why Dunlop no longer makes tires for the CB1100 on their own behalf and he stated point blank, the CB1100 did not sell in great enough numbers in the USA to warrant continued manufacture of tires for that motorcycle model. He told me that Dunlop has a minimum number of bikes that must be sold in a market in order to continue making tires for that bike, but he didn't state what that number was in the case of the US CB1100.

Essentially, the reason Dunlop no longer makes them for Honda, is Honda elected to discontinue on-going availability of Dunlop tires. Why Dunlop didn't continue to make them for sale through dealers and other channels is that Honda sold too few bikes in the USA. It seems obvious, but hearing it directly from Dunlop eliminates any theories as to why.

He didn't elaborate on whether the decision for those allotments of tires were made by Honda or Honda USA. He did however confirm that Dunlop no longer makes any tires in the CB1100 OEM sizes in any of their factories worldwide. He explained the reason they may be available in other countries is only due to remaining inventory from those initial Honda warranty orders. Based on that, I would presume that the ability to buy any Dunlop tire for the CB1100 will shortly cease altogether, regardless of market.

I guess that explains why other manufacturers such as Michelin, ceased making tires for our bikes as well. Not enough people bought into the vision or nostalgia of the CB1100.

Interesting tidbit, the caller ID came across as "Sumitomo Rubber", not Dunlop.