On weekends, as I give tours in the basement of the Petersen (known as "The Vault"), I do an early morning walk-through of the upper floors to note anything new or changed. That way if someone asks me about a specific vehicle, I'll know if it's up there or not. 

On my Saturday morning spin, I noticed two recently added movie bikes that are pretty neat. The Ducati from Matrix Reloaded (some pretty blatant but cool product placement!) and the Honda CL350 ridden in The Girl With the Dragon Tattoo. Had no idea what that bike was till I saw this!

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A great article comparing the differences between two models. I hope it will helps those members living outside of the United States consider the possibilities. David


https://www.bennetts.co.uk/bikesocial/re...and-review

Hi All,

Newbie here, currently running a '79 Goldwing. Looking to change to something a bit more up to date.

I love the looks of the 1100RS, though feel the 1100EX riding position - more upright - would suit my arthritic bones better.

Is the only difference the flatter bars on the RS? Could I therefore use bar risers or fit 1100EX bars to remedy this?

Thanks in advance

HM

Hi guys, selling my 2017 EX even though I thought I never would. Almost through restoring my DLX and going to go down to just one bike. It is immaculate shape with only 6375 miles on it.  Garage kept with lots of extras.  It has an OEM luggage rack. Crash bars. National Cycle Street Shield EX. Red Reservoir covers. (Have OEM ones too) I have Honda OEM electric grips new in box. Too hot in south Texas to install, but they aint cheap! Radiator cover with CB1100 on it. And of course it has RLETs installed. Comes with a Battery Tender Jr. and is wired to keep battery charged while not riding. I put new tires on it at 5695 miles. Both Bridgestone's. Front, a speed rated T-32F 110/80 ZR18.  The rear a BT45R 140/70-18. I installed a new 'Parts Unlimited Battery at 5393 miles. Just put fresh Motul 4T-7100 Fully Synthetic  10W-50 oil and new Honda oil filter at 6375 miles.
I am going to flush the brakes and clutch this week, if I do not sell it first and use Motul Fluid. I also installed heavier bar end weights, as if it needed them, but have originals still.
All Forum members know what a great bike this is, no need to brag. I have been a member since 2019 and have conversed with many of you. I am asking $9800 on Craigslist and soon Cycle trader, but any Forum members can buy it for $9200. It looks new! Rides like new!
Just to mention, the bike has about $1500 in addons, counting the NIB Heated grips!

I have been thru 4 or 5 USB and 12v charger outlets on my 2014 Deluxe handle bars over the last 10 years ... all with various purposes and successes.   I had setup this bike for xcountry touring but now I him removing all the touring stuff and bringing my baby back to the beautiful showroom look (except the butt buster seat which is stored away).  However from time to time I will need a usb phone charger so I found this very elegant solution (Japan made) and installed it.    Its wonderful.

Amazon link:  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BGVRPXTT?ref..._title_0_0

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I am toward the end of a 2 month retina eye surgery recovery during which time I decide to do a valve adjustment and refinish all the aluminum engine covers ... plus various other mech/electrical stuff. I did a spruce up of my front forks and adjusted my valves about 5 years ago so thought why not use some of the past experience to do the engine covers since they were showing some clear coat scaling (plus some road rock nicks).  Here's a summary of what I did.  Removed all covers.and cleaned everything with Simple Green Pro (it doesn't harm surfaces like others). Setup strip/paint station on a 2'x4' flat metal oil drip pan on saw horses .Used stripper to get as much of old clear coat off ... used 3m purple pad to aggresively go after hard stuf while stripper was still on.  Tried using a bench buffer (bench sander with buffing/polishing add on plus the various polish grit clay sticks that come with the polishing pads ... had some some success, but that clay grit seems to become adhered in soft alum finish and caused me to spend to much time trying to remediate the darn clay grit issue.   Utimately I just when with wet/dry (400 thru 2000) hand sanding then buffed/polished with bench buffer and Mothers Alum Polish.   Last prep set was to wash all with Simple Green Pro then wipe down with an automotive paint "pre-clean" that is some combo of alcohol and a few "enes'.  Setup each piece seperately at paint station and blew off with dry rag and air.  Painted 3 coats (5 min between each coat) of the SprayMax 2k Clear ... this stuff runs very easily so have to be careful about first coat.  I have attached some pics of everything I mentioned here.

Pic of original clearcoat condition.
     

Rest of pics.

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I bought new plugs to replace the originals which are rusty.  I also want to clean up the corrosion on the bolts on either side.  Should I try to clean/treat the bolt heads in place, or can I remove, clean, and replace those bolts without disturbing the gaskets under the covers?  Thanks

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Since the new forum was not able to retain directly posted photos, attached are some memories:
The CB1100 remains a tie with my 2002 H-D Sportster 1200 Sport.

I do miss riding Death Valley, Lake Mead and so much in SW Utah, as well as Northern Arizona.
Sad that the North Rim Lodge is gone.

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Used works shocks. If I remember correctly they are a quarter inch taller than stock. Need a full rebuild.

$100 plus shipping. 

https://imgur.com/gallery/works-shocks-3yFFcsl

So I was meticulously checking the alignment/spacing/etc of everything on my handlebars...

Bar end weights, grips, clutch and brake lever mounts are all symmetrical.... and the control housings for turn signals/horn and starter/kill switch are not symmetrical.

I wish that kind of stuff didn't bother me, but the 1/4 inch of white throttle control tube showing stands out like a sore thumb (and was the reason I started measuring so obsessively) and now that I know, I find it pretty annoying.

Since the control housings are pinned I am trying to figure what the most practical solution is (and at the same time I am thinking about going to a slightly thicker set of grips that might absorb more buzziness than the hard stock grips).

Anybody know approx size of the pin holes in the bars?  I am thinking of drilling an additional hole 1/4 inch further, but not if it would significantly weaken the handlebar.

Just use some end-cutters to cut the pin off and then mount the housing where I want it nice and snug?

Either way, I assume part of the problem is that the throttle tube is 1/4 inch too long as well, right?

If I am being dumb and missing something, let me know.

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