https://cnj.craigslist.org/mcy/d/millsto...86570.html


Half tempted to go grab it!!

Hello everyone, I'm back & whining again.

I got around to installing speedbleeders and bleeding the brakes and clutch today. 3 of the speedbleeders worked flawlessly for the brake calipers.
The 4th (for the clutch), got installed and sealed fine. However after the quarter turn and pumping the lever - no fluid came out. I noticed that the fluid was slowly seeping out around the threads when I pumped. I removed the speedbleeder and used the OEM screw to finish bleeding. I noticed that the thread sealant had completely come off this 4th speedbleeder. Basically it seats and seals when tightened fully - but once it is loosened to bleed, the pressure doesn't move the ball, but the fluid leaks around the threads. The OEM screw doesn't have any sealant on it so am wondering if the ball valve somehow is faulty.



I have sent the image to speedbleeder.com asking if there is any way to test the speedbleeder and check if the valve works correctly? Or if it is normal for the sealant to wear off so quickly on the first use. Anyway, I don't think I can reuse this one since all the thread sealant is off. For now I'll just leave the OEM screw on. I just hope the other 3 speedbleeders are fine.

Some of my observations...
1. There is very limited space to install the tube for bleeding the clutch. It took some effort to get the tube on the (speedbleeder and OEM) screw and not have it kink against the starter.
2. My original brake fluids were quite clear - but the clutch fluid was much darker. Supposedly all the fluids were bled in 2018 together - so this was a bit strange.
3. I bought the 946ml bottle of Valvoline DOT4. The fluid I got out into my container after bleeding was less than 200ml - and this would have included some of the new fluid too. This is the first time I was doing it so I wanted to be safe but I think 300ml would be more than enough if everything goes smoothly.
4. It is possible for one person to bleed the clutch fluid with the OEM bleeder. I was getting disheartened when the speedbleeder wouldn't work here - but was relieved to be able to use the OEM bleed screw.

I'll keep this short and sweet.

Long story short I wrecked my bike, rebuilt it, new Tach works, speedo doesn't, ABS light on. Took it to shop to read codes, ABS sensor is confirmed bad, new one should fix issue.

They want 1.8 shop hours to do it plus parts put their repair costs about $550. Heeeeck no.

New sensor is in the mail, it's 2 bolts, a few clips and a connector under the side panel. Super easy. But how the heck do I get to the 2nd bolt? Do I absolutely have to pull the rear tire and remove the caliper? I'd like to avoid that if possible. I had to remove the center stand because it was bent and don't have a replacement yet taking it off and on is a PITA.

Videos for reference - https://photos.app.goo.gl/zMSesQE1JYiDVYCQA

Just placed a deposit on one of these beauties, it will arrive in NZ in August (hopefully).

190kg, 119hp, Ohlins, quickshifter, should be fun!

I confess that I don't often "get" the whole custom scene, but it's sometimes interesting to see what people come up with.

Sometimes though, it really makes you scratch your head.

Hey guys! So I recently changed out my speedometer for a digital one. I should have everything hooked up properly as it all reads out okay on the new meter. The weird thing is that since I changed the meter my rev limiter is hitting too soon. It now redlines at about 5,500rpm now no matter what gear it's in. Is there an easy fix to this or am I going to have to take it to a shop to have the ECU reset or something? Thanks in advanced!

I'm in need of some help with wiring replacement aftermarket turn signals and a taillight. Specifically when it comes to the wire colors. This is for a 2014 standard, btw.

I've been searching this forum and other possible sources most of today looking for some kind of reference guide for this, but come up mostly empty. I have the technical/mechanical ability to connect the wiring, but not the electrical knowledge to be sure I'm putting the correct wires together. I'm also a little apprehensive to continue a trial-and-error process, as I think I might've blown a fuse doing that last night. (An annoying little setback.... but, oh well.)

Anyway, If anyone could please help demystify the color codes of the wiring, I would be eternally grateful!

Did y'all see this?

[url=https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1969-honda-cb750-sandcast-2/]CB750 Sandcast McQueen

Holy smokes!

So we are told that petrol has a shelf life 3 to 6 months after which it starts to lose its octane the combustible part but can last up to 15 months with fuel stabilizer.
That's what I thought until recently when an elderly neighbour who stopped mowing her lawns herself 4 years ago offered me a can of petrol which was for her mower. She had meant to give it me years ago but kept forgetting.
I took the gift mainly for future use of the can but couldn't help wonder what state the nearly 5 year old petrol would be in.
I have 5 mowers so chose one I never use which had been stored for many years with an empty tank and filled it with the old fuel, primed it and first pull it started and is being used weekly on the old fuel with no loss of power at all.

Ok the petrol looks darker than usual and I wouldn't risk it in a vehicle but it just goes to show it can still be used after 4+ years with no stabilizer.

Went to the Gathering of Nortons that the Delaware Valley Norton Riders hold each year at Washingtons Crossing Historical Park. Plenty of Nortons showed up obviously but also hundreds of other bikes.
I met another DLX owner there. I let him know about the forum, he had never heard of it.








That last one is for you A-man.

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