I believe, but I am not certain, that I can turn the adjustment screws (on top of the forks) all the way out, and they won't just fall out of the forks? The purpose being that I would know the softest setting possible, and then I can add some stiffness back in.

I couldn't detect a click when turning the screw. Is there one, or do I just pay attention to the number of turns? Is one 360 degree turn enough to make a noticeable difference, or is that too small a change to have any real effect?

Thanks!

I was planning a ride either north or south from Brisbane this month but again the weather had put an end to that. Here is a map of road closures in red showing the number of closures at each location.
[url=https://imgur.com/HKeAM4Y]

Just had mine plugged into my desktop computer and the power commander software open. I noticed at the top of the screen it says gears one, two, three, four, five.

Never paid any attention to that before but now I wonder if it is reading how many gears from the software on the ECU and even though my bike is a six speed I did have Don Guhl flash the ECU so wonder if he is using the same base map that he possibly made off of a 2013 model???

The 2014 has different software than the 2013 and more than just how many gears the bike has.

Given how uncommon these bikes are it would be very easy for him to have not known that and just think the same software will work across all the years.

So if someone with a power commander and a six speed can plug in and open up the software and just check the top of the screen real quick for me, I would really appreciate it.


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Hi Can some one enlighten me as to the engine number on a CB1100RS I take it they all have the first 5 characters SC65E followed by a dash but can you decode the remaining 7 characters?

thanks

I probably looked into this a bit too much and have myself worried over nothing so I figured I would ask here. I am still pretty new to the bike but I have been noticing some slight vibration in the bars (I am going to be reinstalling the OEM bar weights and going away from the bar end mirrors), gear "chatter" (I wouldn't say an abnormal amount), and most every gear shift has a pretty loud but positive clack to it.

I checked the current setting and It looks on the "tight" side?



I'm a little nervous about attempting the adjustment as I really don't want to screw anything up. I am open to all suggestions and flogging.

On a side note: last weekend I replaced all of the brake pads, brake fluid and the nasty clutch fluid. All of that went normal "working on a Honda" smooth.

Thanks!

Hi - I understand that Canada received CB1100RS's.
I would like to know if anyone is selling one. I would then import . I live in Colorado. Thanks

Took my CB1100 “Chip Beck” spec Corbin seat up to Corbin plant to have them make a custom ST1300 seat for me with same butt geometry.
Just met owner and chatted about stuff… started business in 1968. Had a production 2 seat car called Sparrow in the 1970’s… was ahead of it’s time … battery tech was obviously an issue. Only made 500 units. Mike Corbin is a really cool guy. Told me to walk thru the replant (unescorted) and check everything.


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I've dynoed numerous of my cars and motorcycles for decades.

I've done many hundreds of pulls on at least 6-7 different dynos

Always thought it would be awesome to have my own.

Recently I've been watching a guys youtube channel that has his own dyno and posts videos doing tests on parts and tuning-

https://www.youtube.com/c/Garage4age

Car dynos are very expensive, large, heavy, especially AWD ones.

Motorcycle dynos are smaller, cheaper, but since I am just a guy playing around in my garage- I don't want to give up one of my 2 bays to have a massive thing permanently take up space.

Just for fun a couple days ago I was looking on Ebay- and this old Dynojet dyno trailer popped up.

I've seen guys / shops take normal dynos, both car and bike- and bolt them down on flat bed trailers before- but I've never seen a dyno that was built as a trailer from the factory!! Wow.

So- the mobility solves my only real concern about space. I can store it in my shed. And being able to take it wherever I want it cool.

I have been talking with Dynojet- and although it is an older model- they still fully support it and I can upgrade it to the newest electronics if I ever wanted to. They say it should weigh less than 1,000 pounds- so moveable with pretty much anything with a tow hitch.

Now I just need to figure out how to get it from Longmont Colorado to New Jersey.

Hey guys I am going to be ordering new tires here soon and I think I want to go with a 160/60-18 rear like others have stated but I am wondering if I should go with a 110/80 or 120/70 for the front. I like to push the bike to its limits so is the handling a little slower with a bigger front tire or better? I just want the best handling for the bike.

I've seen a few "Brake Pad Threads" but didn't see anyone mention using ceramic pads.

I see that brand "Sixity" pop up on other forums as being the "Ebay special" but anyone that's gotten then said they were OEM spec and loved them.

I see they have a sale on ebay right now and have a full set of front and rear ceramic pads for 21$

And a full Sintered set for 41$ thats usually in the 70s

Also organic pads for 17


Now before you say it i usually don't give the ebay special brakes any credit but my Google search has guys from kawasaki forums and HD forums etc back to 2010 saying the brakes worked great for them and lasted thousands of miles. Sixity website also looks legit, they have a warranty, and they've been around for a decade or 2
https://www.sixity.com/search?q=Cb1100+motorcycle

SO brand aside, has anyone used Ceramic pads on our CBs and liked them?

I already changed rotors once so I'm drawn to the ceramics being less wear on rotors long term.

I have no complaints on the OEM pads stopping power but I'm not sure if our OEM pads are organic or sintered?

2014 CB1100, 1981 KZ440 LTD, 1993 Yamaha XJ600 Seca, 1994 Yamaha XJ600 Seca