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| Bar Weight Gap Fix? |
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Posted by: 2017EX_imp - 07-30-2017, 07:23 AM - Forum: Accessories/Modifications
- Replies (16)
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Does anyone know how to fix the gap between the rubber grip, and the bar end weight? It is a brand new 2017 CB1100EX! I saw it when I picked up the bike, and figured if the dealer was willing to let it out the door like that, chances were good that I could do a better job of fixing it the right way without screwing anything up than they could ( sad ). I also do not believe Honda would approve of something so obviously sloppy from the factory. There is a groove machined into each weight that starts the smaller diameter of the weight. I would like only that groove to show between the weight and the rubber grip ( slightly less than 1/16th ). On the clutch side the extra showing between that groove and the grip is almost 5/16ths of an inch, and on the throttle side that extra gap is 1/16th of an inch. The switch housings on both sides are spot on, lining up with the locator dimple in the handlebar, and consequently the rubber grips are positioned correctly. Looking at shop manual diagram, the inner handle bar weight with locating clips that the external weights screw into, there is aparantly no adjustment to pull the weights in closer to the grips. Or did I miss something? At the moment, all I can think of is to have the appropriate amount of extra machined off each weight. There has got to be a better way, I would think! Pictures of each side attached. Any ideas?
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| Been away for a bit because... |
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Posted by: DAC - 07-30-2017, 03:11 AM - Forum: General Discussion
- Replies (12)
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... Mrs. DAC had a slow speed mishap on her scoot and broke her collarbone. I was right behind her and was there immediately to help, which was good because she rides solo fairly frequently.
Anyway, it was a displaced fracture (which is fancy talk for "it's broken really bad.") and she had surgery to put a small rail and 6 pins in it. She's doing quite well now though a bit sore. Strength is gradually coming back in her arm and stitches come out Tuesday.
So, playing nurse and holding down a job and prepping for an upcoming kitchen remodel has kept me busy. But I'm glad to back among the CB1100 kids!
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| Getting ready for new chain and sprockets |
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Posted by: the Ferret - 07-29-2017, 03:42 AM - Forum: Mechanical & Technical
- Replies (8)
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Have about 35,000 miles on my original chain and sprockets. They still look good and I'm not anywhere close to the red on my adjusters yet, but on our recent Colorado trip I could feel a clicking or ticking when just cruising, that felt to me like it was coming from the chain, so I am going to order a set to have on hand. Happy with the stock gearing and life I have gotten out of the oem stuff so just ordering it from my local dealer. Stock was an RK chain ( Honda offers both RK and DID) so I will just go with one of those. Looked it up on my dealer website and it was $51.73 for the front sprocket, $ 75.69 for the rear sprocket and $209.33 for the rear chain. Total $ 336.75 . YIiiiiiii. Of course he gives me a little discount, so it won't be quite that much.
Also need a l/f turn signal lens, as mine rotted off. Only $ 13.27 for that. Whew.
Thank goodness I was able to get a left mirror from PowerDubbs. Lol
Tell me again how economical it is to ride a motorcycle? Lol. Good thing it's fun!
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| removing rear wheel on CB1100NA (RS) Care needed |
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Posted by: Macduff_imp - 07-28-2017, 11:52 PM - Forum: Mechanical & Technical
- Replies (1)
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Hi I've just gone through the process of pulling and refitting the rear wheel on my CB11RS for the purpose of fitting a larger rear sprocket (that didnt fit, but thats a different story). I read the owner manual and the process seemed pretty straight forward as follows:-
Place on centre stand
undo axle nut
Set chain adjusters to min and push rear wheel fully forward
lift chain off sprocket
pull axle and remove caliper bracket as a unit.
It all works well until trying to remove the caliper bracket as a unit as there is little clearance with the 17" rear wheel. I ended up pulling the caliper off the bracket (along with the abs cable ) to just leave the caliper mount without anything attached. This allows the wheel to be easily removed and also eases refitting though I'd locate a suitable shim to place under the rear wheel when fitting to help align the axle wheel bearings/swingarm. Its a bit of a heavy combo trying to lift the wheel making sure all the bits are aligned and push the axle in. Then you can re-fit the caliper abs cable and brackets back onto the caliper bracket.
As mentioned I had intended to fit a larger rear sprocket but I ordered incorrectly and ended up with a 6 bolt sprocket not the 5 bolt one fitted to the CB11 :/.
Upside is i found that my rear axle was fitted dry with no grease on the shaft so I got to sort that out before it became an issue and seized into the wheel.
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| Installed Yoshimura RSCV full exhaust today |
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Posted by: ManInBlack_imp - 07-28-2017, 02:24 PM - Forum: Mechanical & Technical
- Replies (14)
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Well, actually it took me several days-- I had to order a special socket to remove the O2 sensor-- but I felt a good sense of accomplishment. (I'm a very novice mechanic).
So here is my question. Do I need to get an after market fuel controller? I was thinking of getting the Dynajet PCFC, but don't want to get in over my head. Bike seems to run great now.
Also, this is my first post, though I have been lurking for a while...
David
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