When I started riding motorcycles in the mid 60's we learned how to adjust a chain by finding any tight spot in chain, putting it in the middle of the lower run, then push up on the chain to measure slack.

In fact when I wrote the "How To adjust the chain on your CB 1100" for that section of the forum 6 years ago, that is how I advised doing it.

http://www.cb1100forum.com/forum/showthr...p?tid=7158

I've never seen a factory trained mechanic do anything other than push up from the lower run to gauge chain tension.

It seems now the procedure calls for starting out the same way but instead of pushing up to measure slack, now it seems they want you to pull DOWN first, then measure slack up from there. On a chain like the CB's which calls for 1"-1.4" that could make a heck of a difference in tautness.

I know chain tension isn't "critical" and we've always believe "a loose chain is happier than a tight chain", but was wondering which procedure you guys are using, and if any of you have tried to measure the difference using both methods?

something new to discuss.

i hate too make a new thread but been searching and cant find are the dlx wheels the same as standard? bearings disc and all other parts excluded ?

i like having a spare set of wheels for all my bike and was kinda thinking of chroming 1 set

Hi there.

Recently I bought a Crash bars for my CB1100 EX 2016 from T-Rex Racing, which they say fits 2010 - 2016.

When installing, I unfortunately realized that the Crash bar does not fit on my bike.

On the left side of the bike the Tube Bracket does not have space on the frame, as shown in attached picture.

Has anyone encountered this?

Any recommendations on larger/taller tires to add a bit more ground clearance? Mainly looking to avoid scraping the header on the ramp into my house as well as rock clearance for the little bit of off pavement riding I find myself getting into when going somewhere new. Willing to modify the front fender to accept a taller tire. Not quite this aggressive but I like the look of the Moto Guzzi V9 bobbers with the bigger tires, pic for reference.

I've had luck with the Shinko Super Classic Tires on a past CB360 build, see photo, as they get taller without getting much wider. Trying to find something similar but more of a performance tire.

Hi,
New to the forum. I have a 71 CB750 that needs more love than I can give. I don't have work space and my wife is tired of me eating up perfectly good days working on it. It really bums me out to realize I have to sell it. I don't have the room, time or money for it.

But I am looking for a CB1100. I kind of worry that I'm pigeon holing myself and not broadening my horizons. But I think i know what I like. I had a 94 sportster 1200 for 3 months when my 750 had another bout of too many issues I cared to fix. I didn't like it. And I love old bikes, but I can't bring another old bike home... not for a while at least.

I test rode one that came up at a dealership and I absolutely loved it. But in looking at the used market vs dealership prices I'm not sure if I should hold out or drive a while to save some cash or go to the dealership near me.

$7999 for a 2014
6300 miles
full Yoshi Exhaust System, Driving Lites, Engine Guards, Fly Screen

I honestly would rather get something stock and work from there. I was going to see about trying to work on the price a bit.

Thoughts?

Thanks!

PS. If anyone in the Philly area needs a CB750 project holler at me.

This might be a dumb question for most folks here, but the 2014 I bought a few weeks ago came with a carbon fiber version of the Yoshimura RS-3 slip-on. When I posted my "hello" to the new members section I expressed a little dislike for the RS-3 and one or two people mentioned they would trade me the stock for the Yoshimura.

I tried to find the carbon fiber version that my bike has online and it seems that either they don't make it anymore or I am just looking in all the wrong places. What's the draw for the RS-3 on our bikes? Noise? Less restricted air flow? And is there any benefit to the carbon fiber version? Surely it is just a wrap so it doesn't really reduce weight, right? Is it purely aesthetics?

From what I read about unrestricting the engine with the Guhl programming and a fuel mapping add-on, then perhaps there is a performance increase but also it seems only with an air intake mod as well.

Just curious and wondering. The look is kind of growing on me but I must confess, I find the size looks a bit out of balance with the retro nature of the bike. It certainly sounds better to me now with the silencer insert installed, but I find I am still trying to come to terms with the look and sound. Also, at what mileage should I send it in for repacking?

No more chain cleaning and lubricating - soon I hope!

Pricing has been released for a chain and sprocket kit from Regina using the High Performance Endurance product, €278 incl. TAX. These were announced by BMW as a €100 uplift on a new bike purchase last year.

Not out in our size yet but I'm sure it won't be long. I will be happy to swap my chain right out for one of these when they are available. It looks like you will pay a €100 premium over a regular heavy duty O-Ring chain and sprocket set but I would be happy to pay that to keep the rear wheel clean.

Some people seem to be under the impression there is no need to adjust the chain, ever again, I don't think that is the case. They are not claiming they last massively longer than a regular O-Ring chain set either.

A world first for motorbikes with chain drive: the virtually maintenance-free motorbike drive chains from the Italian chain specialist Regina, the innovative *High Performance Endurance* (HPE) chains. And here as a complete chain set with sprocket and pinion in original equipment quality from gear professional ESJOT.

One thing is certain: probably the most annoying thing about a motorbike with chain drive is the recurring maintenance of the drive unit chain, sprocket and gear. And the rule is: it's better to clean once more and grease again. That way you'll get more out of your chain set - even if it's a pain.

It's different with the Regina *HPE* chain sets. The exceptional *HPE* chain is coated with hydrogen-free, amorphous, tetrahedral carbon (ta-C) on the surfaces of the rollers and bushings - also known as "industrial diamond". This coating reduces power loss and increases efficiency. In addition, the Regina *HPE* eliminates the need for chain cleaning and lubrication. This is not only less labour intensive, but also more environmentally friendly. But the best thing about this type of chain set is that it matches the durability of a well-maintained regular seal ring chain set.

innovative world first
chain sprocket and pinion in original equipment quality
no cleaning and lubrication
coating on rollers and bushes with ta-C
less power loss
long service life
environmentally friendly

Something like this. Thoughts?




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey guys,

I ordered these K Factory block off plates shortly after I got all of that work done, and I finally put them in yesterday. Installation was a snap, (didn't even have to remove the tank!) probably took 5 minutes per side.

Initially I removed all of the diaphragm assembly, then I noticed the dimples/detents in the block off plates corresponded with the screws on top of the diaphragms. The instructions were all in Japanese, so I had to wing it.

[attachment=13445][attachment=13443][attachment=13444]
No more popping on decel, and no more more burbles. Also, the throttle twitchiness is completely gone now!

[attachment=13446]

First really nice weekend here in Sweden coincided with wife running in her new V-Strom so we decided to just cruise around and revisit our favourite roads, often forgotten main roads made obsolete by fancy new highways. Along one of these roads a gas station somehow has managed to survive intact with pumps, garage, tools and all, as a time capsule - The Carl Westberg Caltex gas station in Morarp. For the last twenty years it has just been sitting there, miraculously escaping vandals and real estate heroes. But silent, dark and empty. However, this time when we stopped for the obligatory new-bike-photo, something had changed. There was a sign outside, offering drop-in wheel swap. Quite unexpected. We just had to go in. And found this guy in his 30s, in a classic mechanic's overall and properly oily, with a 60s Beetle on the lift. It turnes out that he has set his mind to bring the gas station back to real life, not only as a dead museum but with actual business. The permits needed to sell gas are too much, but the rest may work. Speciality classic cars, with a special place for air cooled Beetles. We left with two t-shirts and a renewed faith in mankind.