I understand that 13/14 standard bike racks are not suitable for 17 onwards models but what about 14/16 EX?
There arent many racks available in Spain but i could get hold of a Givi SR 1118. Is says fits 13/14 standard model and i see, from pics, no diference on the mounting points of both models. Mine is 15 EX
Am I missing something?

My “new” 15 CB 1100 EX has 44000 miles and comes with no documented maintenance although I’ve been told by the seller that it’s been maintained by an Honda dealer by its first owner up to 40k mikes.
The bike is in very good shape aesthecally and the engine purrs nicely.

What should I plan to do on my first service?
Are 44k mikes cause of concern?

I don't drink beer, but if you saw me from the side, you'd be forgiven for thinking I had a beer belly!

So my tummy and riding jacket have been gradually dulling the paint on the tank of my 2014 Standard.

I did some searches here, on Amazon, and RevZilla, and I'm not finding anything that I want to attach to my bike.

I don't want anything that looks like reptile skin or has skulls, dragons, or marvel superheroes on it. Or Chinese characters that say, "I can't read Chinese and I still bought this!"

I really just want a flat black, maybe with a mildly textured surface, similar to a bedliner in a pickup truck.

Any suggestions?

If you have a tank protector or tank pad on your Eleven, could you share a pic of it here? Thanks in advance!

After 2000 miles of riding, I thought I would post the fuel table that my PCV/autotune created for me. I think a lot of people have tried to find examples in the past so hopefully this is helpful. Before anyone copy/pastes this into their PCV, I do want to share the modifications of my bike and where I'm located:

2014 Std
Delkevic headers/mid pipe
Yoshimura RS-3 muffler
TSR air intake funnel plate
K&N air filter
Bored-out velocity intake stacks

Fresno, CA - 300 ft above sea level

If you do not have very similar modifications (on the exhaust AND intake side) or live in a similar area, I would highly recommend not copying my values. However, it does give you an idea of where the bike needs to get richer or leaner. I also need to note that your AFR table is likely different than mine, so you need to take that into account as well. If you are using the stock fuel map that has 13.2 across the board, my fuel adjustments are NOT recommended.

My recently acquired CB has a USB/12V charger attached to the handle bars. I would like to remove this as I have no use for it, and it partially blocks the ignition and right turn signal indicator.


Lifted the tank to attempt to find where the wire runs to remove it. After reading the instructions on removing the tank, I would prefer to leave the tank on.
I did see a wire with a connector under the tank that appears to not be factory. Looks like this...


Going to try to get it out while leaving the tank on. Any other suggestions appreciated.
Film at 11:00

Question: Do all CB1100 have the same size handlebars? If so what size are they?

.
FITTING A 'RETRO' CB750 MUDGUARD TO A CB1100...

In this case, it is a 2018 CB1100EX.

I have used a genuine Honda CB750 1972 patten front mudguard (fender, m/guard).

After removing the front wheel ( http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread....#pid257750 ), remove the front m/guard. 4x 12mm bolts.

Position the m/guard roughly between the forks, to see what you have and what you need to alter.  I needed to bend the large brackets to make them fit between the (wider apart) forks. I did this using a vice (vise).  CAREFULLY bend or straighten as necessary until you're happy. You may need to.keep coming back to do this.



I found it easier at this stage to temporarily remove the front, upper stay (two 8mm bolts/nuts)

Cut off the redundant cable guide.



Rustproof/paint this when you paint the central brackets, later.

The lower, rear, stays need to be modified to fit round the brake calipers /discs.
Measures 15cm along the stays, from the centre of the securing bolt hole on the end of the stay, and mark that position with tape. 



I am NOT a metalworker and I'm  not entirely happy with what I've done here... it's OK but could be better.  A metalworker would certainly offer a better method.  Anyway, read and weep, metalworkers of the world!

CAREFULLY and slowly bend out the arms of the rear, lower stay, equally on each side - do this on the one rear, lower stay ONLY; the other stay remains intact.  Try not to bend solely at the screw securing point - it is weak there and could snap outwards or upwards. 

Bend outwards,  equally on each side, until the tape marks are 25cm apart - this will enable the stays to clear the brake calipers.



Then, put the stay in a vice and, using a tube to bend it round, slowly and gently straighten the stay so that the tips are "about" 25cm apart (I stopped when they were 26cm - half a centimeter "spring" each side, I felt was acceptable).
They now clear the brake calipers on each side.







Loosely bolt the stays onto the Special Brackets on the bottom of the forks - Note: these Special Brackets have to be made specially (they are supplied if you buy the Whitehouse front mudguard... at £430 ($560), whereas this genuine Honda mudguard is just £190 ($210) plus the bracket cost!).   I will supply dimensions below.  Any engineering shop could manufacture these if you are not able to do so yourself.  This is with many, many thanks to, and courtesy of, Ninemeister, on this Forum. 









Line up the entire m/guard squarely in the forks, and temporarily clamp in position.  Refit the wheel, temporarily if necessary, to get the final position of the m/guard "just right".  Mark where securing holes need to be drilled.  It may be that only two bolts can be used, one on each side.  This is the case with my m/guard because the existing mounting bracket is so small.  This should not create a problem, provided the bolts are fitted securely.  Fabricating a completely new bracket is possible, of course, but I don't consider it necessary.

I used G-cramps to hold the m/guard in position while measuring.  I needed to straighten and then bend again, the central bracket, using my vice.





Positioning of the new bolt holes is CRITICAL, and can affect the appearance of the entire m/guard, so be careful.

I am also concerned that removal of some of the bracing of the forks via the m/guard bracket (just two bolts instead of four securing the m/guard) 'may' affect handling.  Again, experience will tell me if an additional arch of bracing, under the m/guard, between the forks, will be necessary.

Finally, cut off the excess of the central brackets (if you consider necessary), dress down the sharp edges, undercoat,  paint, and fit back on the 'bike. 

Step back and admire!

I'll post a picture when it's all painted and fitted.

after cub and monkey. (or the also successful minibike grom )........here comes the DAX

80% of it probably above my pay grade, but like to have as a reference. Seen a couple on Ebay...around $130. Any other sources I should check?
Thanks.

Ahh, welcome to Targeted Enforcement Week on the carpool lane of the 55 freeway.

California traffic may be bad, but at least motorcycles can use the car pool lanes on the congested freeways. Watching motorcycles sail by while I was gripping my gridlocked steering wheel in seething anger is what got me to start riding in the first place.

Still, not all drivers are patient enough to just sit and watch us sail by. Some take a chance. It must be a targeted enforcement week, as every morning so far, I've seen the poor fools who can't resist receive their $490 slap on the wrist.

Huh... looking at the photo, this is the first one I've seen that wasn't a BMW.