Looking to replace OEM tires. I wanted to get some Heidenau K60's, but looking at the tire sizes I'm not sure what I want. I'd like to go to a 150 on the rear, 160 if it will work (although Heidenau doesn't offer that size). Hoping to do 120 on the front but not sure how that will handle. K60 tire sizes available for the stock rim are 140/80-18 and 150/70B-18 for the rear. The 150 is a belted bias tire... anyone running a bias?

For the front the have a 110/80-18 like stock, or a 120/90-18. The 120/90 will be a radius increase of just over 3/4". Not sure that fill fit under the fender without rubbing. Any input would be much appreciated.

Here's an odd one I couln't find on the site - I've read what seems to be conflicting stories about what to do with the preload settings in order to raise the ground clearance.

Reason I need to do this is that the entrance going into my (shared) courtyard has a ramp on it. I can go super slow and have no problem. However, if it's wet then super slow doesn't get the traction I need, meaning I have to move a bit faster, and dang, there goes the exhaust (which despite several knocks is still holding up well).

I don't want to change the new types just yet, something a touch softer may solve the spin in the wet, so thought I'd investigate trying to add another, say half an inch to the ground clearance.

Any ideas?

There was a thread on hear that gave weight differences between stock and after market wheels. I thought they where a good looking
wheel but can't remember the name or find the thread. Any help
would be appreciated.
THANKS IN ADVANCE
Bruce

Say, does a new, shinny black Shoei Qwest FF helmet qualify as an accessory? It sure is quiet, compared to my old Shoei Piro FF helmet. BTW, it was made in Japan, not China.

It is with some regret and some excitement that I am letting you know I am getting rid of my 1100 and will be getting a brand new Moto Guzzi California 1400 in white next week.

Those that know me knows I L O V E Honda's and in my book the 1100 was the resultant of all those years of engineering excellence to come up with probably the smoothest bike ever made. I have had so much fun on it.

Also, I have been more active and involved in this forum of great people that any before and since. I have had the pleasure of meeting several of you in person, as well as both Guth and Ferret. Never have a met a greater group of people.

I demo'ed the Guzzi California 1400 and simply fell in love, and was ready to get back to a cruiser where I have spent most of my riding years. I will still have a garage full of naked Honda standards to have fun on!

So I will be still be sticking my head in and see what cool things and cool trips you folks are doing on your 1100's.

Thanks for all the tips shared, knowledge given and friendship!

Keep riding and stay safe.

I'll post some actual pics up of the new addition once I get it in hand !!

[url=http://s413.photobucket.com/user/Mstarvideo/media/Our%20Vintage%20Bikes/Current%20Hoard/2013-Moto-Guzzi-California-1400-Touring_20_zpsws7t2ege.jpg.html]

[url=http://s413.photobucket.com/user/Mstarvideo/media/Our%20Vintage%20Bikes/110912-2013-moto-guzzi-california-1400-4_zpsdx00finr.jpg.html]

In an effort to improve my riding skills (plenty of room for improvement for sure), I thought I would ask this. Since most of us are riding the same bike, it's easier to get an idea of the "best" RPM range to use as opposed to a mixed group. I find if I let the RPMs get too low, say below 2500, I can still lug the bike out of the turn using the torque, but get drivetrain lash at times (descending turns, but it may just be my throttle roll on error) , certainly not an optimal situation. On the other hand, I don't generally ride through them in the 5000 RPM range because, to me, it feels like the engine is just screaming. But this may be exactly where it should be. So what do you find is the "best" range?

Oooh, shiny!

[url=http://s157.photobucket.com/user/mustangfeverrr/media/2015-5-27%20058_zpsbgb9vvie.jpg.html]

Can't wait to get the bike back from the dealer so I can slap this puppy on!

Just a contribution that I learned years ago...

If you are considering changing handlebars or want new grips, getting the old grips off can be difficult. If you have an air compressor (best investment I've ever made), you can point the blower into the inside edge of the grip and BANG! that puppy will just fly off. Peel up the inside edge of the grip, poke the blower kind of in the grip and pull the trigger.

Of course you can cut off the old ones if you don't want them but if you want to save them, this is a real easy way to get them off.

I recently found out that the CB1100 does not like mud.

With all the recent rain and flooding here in North Texas, my yard is a "lake". Ankle-deep water in ponds around the yard. I don't have much of a driveway, so I usually ride through the yard, but that has become a problem. I've gouged ruts in the yard and made it through OK, until yesterday.

As I rode in, I slid the bike off the concrete into the spongy, soft ground. The front tire's bottom was instantly surrounded by mud and the bike stopped cold. I could go no further forward or back. Fortunately, there was enough concrete to put down the sidestand and step away from the bike to survey the situation.

I took off my helmet and gear and set to work tugging and pulling until I backed the bike out onto the concrete. Man, that CB is a heavy bike!

Can you get mud tires or knobbys for the CB1100? Just kidding; I love this bike.

when the gas tank is nearing empty and the last bar flashes the display is supposed to allow/show miles to empty (MTE) and gallons left.
i have ran the gas that low 3 times.
the first time the display automatically switched.
the last 2 times it switched but displays no information on MTE or gallons left. it just shows a dash - .
anybody with similar experience?
not sure if there is a reset or something else i can try.

TIA.