I've noticed pictures on the web of CB 1100 bikes with holes drilled into the right side cover. I'm assuming this is an airbox mod of some type. Does anyone know what they've done to their airbox?

https://www.bing.com/images/search?view=...ajaxhist=0

So I've got my bike in from Cleveland and already have about 400 km in the saddle. I did the same loop as the time I needed Polish MacGyver's help to get home with out a worry.

My cousin came over yesterday and we soldered his bike back together and he rode it home to keep at his place. He considered selling the bike a few months back, even put it on Kijiji, but I think he's going to keep it now. After work today looks fantastic for a ride too!!

Sometimes I just like to relax to the seductive thrum of my big V-twin...


Especially when my seat is being re-upholstered

Ben

where will i find pics on this here forum of CAFE RACERS-- or somthing that resembles one - already searhed thru pics didnt see any --thx

For those who have the time or desire to assemble their own motorcycle, the individual components required to build a '14 DLX can be purchased from Honda for about $53,000, not including the frame.

Here are the most expensive parts (totaling about $22,600):

11000-MGC-N20 CRANKCASE SET $2,155.05
12010-MGC-000 CYLINDER HEAD ASSY. $1,426.65
57110-MGC-N31 ABS MODULATOR ASSY. (MSDS) $1,334.18
16401-MGC-A22 BODY ASSY., THROTTLE $1,327.78
13300-MGC-N20 CRANKSHAFT $1,159.98
12100-MGC-000 CYLINDER $1,135.69
17520-MGC-N20ZA TANK SET, FUEL $1,012.95
18150-MGC-N20 PIPE, R. EX. $843.27
18250-MGC-N20 PIPE, L. EX. $843.27
37200-MGC-A71 METER ASSY., SPEED & TACHO (MPH/KPH) $819.13
32100-MGC-A70 WIRE HARNESS $775.35
12300-MGC-J80 COVER ASSY., CYLINDER HEAD $730.18
52200-MGC-N30 SWINGARM SUB-ASSY., RR. $692.95
42650-MGC-307 WHEEL SUB-ASSY., RR. (COO) $684.58
18310-MGC-306 MUFFLER, R. (COO) $633.73
18410-MGC-305 MUFFLER, L. (COO) $633.73
38770-MGC-A73 PGM-FI UNIT $615.78
51400-MGC-308 FORK ASSY., R. FR. (COO) (SHOWA) $585.91
51500-MGC-308 FORK ASSY., L. FR. (COO) (SHOWA) $585.91
44650-MGC-308 WHEEL SUB-ASSY., FR. (COO) $553.82
52400-MGC-305 CUSHION ASSY., RR. (COO) $517.95
16700-MGC-N21 PUMP ASSY., FUEL (MSDS) $507.35
43251-MGC-000 DISK, RR. BRAKE $483.73
31200-MGC-003 STARTER MOTOR ASSY. $450.24
45251-MGC-003 DISK, FR. BRAKE $447.38
45150-MGC-922 CALIPER SUB-ASSY., L. FR. (NISSIN) $417.84
45250-MGC-922 CALIPER SUB-ASSY., R. FR. (NISSIN) $417.84
14110-MGC-000 CAMSHAFT, IN. $412.02
14210-MGC-000 CAMSHAFT, EX. $412.02

The complete exhaust system, when pieced together, is $3,950. Holy moly.

Installed a Fenda Extenda made by Pyramid Plastics at http://shop.fendaextenda.com.

A double sided tape did the job than the messy JB weld..

There was mention in a previous post of the Forum software being updated.

I use the "View New Posts" feature when I log on.
But I don't always look at every thread.

To delete the others I have to:
Return to top
Click to view the new posts
Click on an unread post
Click no I don't want to wait
When that post opens start over to deal with the rest

If the "View New Posts" screen had a "Mark All Read" feature, that would be great.
I could read those posts that interest me.
And then delete all those that I don't with new feature.

Thanks!

Has anyone installed new rotors and carriers on JB Power MagTan wheels, other than the stock, or the Sunstar full-floater version of the stock rotors? I'm having trouble finding standalone 296mm rotors on a 60mm hub, with a (I think) 22mm offset.
I'm measuring 'offset' as the inner flange face of the carrier to the outer face of the carrier which carries the buttons.
The Sunstar version is a bit too busy for me; it uses the silver inner carrier provided by JB Power, transitions to a black anodized button carrier, and then the silver rotor itself. I asked Takashi-san if I could have the black carrier manufactured in silver, but apparently that precludes the use of full-floater buttons, as Sunstar simply strip the AlO2 off the black carriers, thus softening the piece, and mandating the use of semi-floating buttons.

Check out this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=pl...CMNT1VlszM
At around 11:40 it shows a cut away view of the 2017 muffler compared to the earlier model. If you pause the video, you can clearly see how easy it would be to get a little more throaty sound. Its a straight shot from the rear of the muffler to the baffle about 6 to 10 inches inside. Just put a long drill bit straight in and drill bigger holes. You could slowly increase the size of the holes until you get the sound you want. You can also see that the older model would be impossible to modify that simply if at all.
Wish I knew what that guy in the video is saying! I'm guessing the top one is the 2017 because its shorter.

KC

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