I recently corresponded with Canadian Trevor Marc Hughes, who is editing the the previously unpublished manuscript of Canadian motorcyclist, naturalist, and writer Hamilton Mack Laing's 1915 motorcycle journey across the United States from Brooklyn, New York to Oakland, California.

For a preview of Laing's journey, see Hughes's [url=https://ridermagazine.com/2018/12/22/laings-journey/]article in the December 2018 issue of Rider Magazine.

To pre-order Riding the Continent, the published account of the journey as edited by Hughes, [url=http://ronsdalepress.com/riding-the-continent/]visit this page.

Interesting surprise walking home from work. I might be confused.




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Technically that constitutes a 4 wheel vehicle.


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I've searched the forum but can't find the answer.

If I want to put 2014 bars on my 2013 bike will the switchgear fit? Or are the pins in different places?

Thanks

Last night I finally received my Arrow silp-on. Went to do the install and it was a fairly straightforward process. Afterwards during my sanity check with the service manual, I noticed that the stock muffler has a gasket (part # 18392-MG7-750) that goes between it and the header. I didn't see this gasket at all while I was removing the stock one, so the Arrow went on without it. How important is this gasket, and is it just for the stock muffler or should any aftermarket one use it as well? After closer inspection on the stock muffler there is something that looks like it could have been a gasket left on the connecting surface, but it doesn't look like it wants to come off and has the feel of a hard plastic.

Yesterday I accidentally bumped into the rear turn signal on my 14 Dlx and the lens popped off. I picked it up and it was obvious it was glued on. There were no mounting screws and some of the glue/ plastic was on both the lens and the lens cup. I looked at it for awhile and for the life of me can't figure out how they expect someone to replace a cracked lens or the ts bulb if it goes out.

Has anyone with a Dlx ever changed out the ts bulb and if so, how'd you do it?

Btw I just glued the lens back on.

I'm really beginning to love my 2014 CB, once I added softer rear Ikon shocks and softer fork springs and Race Tech Valves. Our roads aren't California smooth, but our secondary roads are what I like to ride. Now all I'm needing are minimal mods to the footpegs and perhaps to the handlebars.

I now have almost 7000 miles on this little beauty. I may have to pull the forks one more time to switch to heavier fork oil. And I still need some sort of seat mod, and perhaps a different handlebar to move it slightly closer to me.

The CB is one incredible bike. Even though she weighs over 500 pounds, she feels like a lightweight. Light steering, light brakes, and a bundle of low end torque makes for a really easy to ride bike. This might become my 'do it all' bike.

Bob

I took my first decent ride this weekend. The rain has finally washed away enough of the salt and sand on our roads, even though massive potholes remain in many places. I was on the road at 8am sharp, and took Hwy 54 > 39/51 > 8 heading from Wisconsin Rapids to Rhinelander to visit family. Speeds averaged 75-80mph and my Dart Flyscreen did a very admirable job keeping the brunt of the wind off of my chest, however 75 miles into the trip I realized my fuel gauge was down to it's last bar. Stopped and put 2.4 gallons. I guess a full complement of side and top cases at those speeds really does a number on this bike's fuel mileage. On the return journey, I took my time and kept to the back roads and county highways. You can tell that 60mph is this bike's happy place. The wind dies down to a gentle buffeting from the roar you get on the freeway, and the engine gets smooth as glass. Fuel mileage was also way better, although I won't know the specific figure until I fill it up next. I had my eyes on this bike since it first came out in the US. It seemed the logical choice for me. It has the same ergonomics and simple UJM design that I loved from my TU250x, all the power of my R1150RT, and maintenance that I can do on my own. I picked the bike up and have made it my own with plenty of modifications and 4000 some miles. It wasn't clicking though. It has just been an ok bike so far. At some point on the ride home, I was the only vehicle anywhere in sight, powering through some gentle curves with the sun shining through the clouds, and the bike and I clicked. I got a big smile on my face and maybe a little dampness in the eyes. I put my hand on the tank and said a quiet little thanks to it in my head. I think we understand each other now and I plan on this being my ride for a very long time.

So, this is my project for next year: Converting my 2014 st.d with 18" wheels to 17" wheels (not spoked). i'm halfway between going all out and getting magnesium wheels for maximum weight savings, but i'm not completely sold on the idea yet. First, I want to explore the idea of simply getting the OEM wheels for the RS and slapping them on. it seems like an easy enough thing to do, but then again i've never seen an RS in person, so i'm calling on you folks in Europe and other markets where the RS is available to help me out with this.

First off, check your local Ebay and parts websites and let me know if there are used CB1100 RS wheels available for sale, and what the average price is. I've been trying to do this using foreign VPN's but i just want to make sure i'm hitting all the right websites to get a good idea of what's for sale. Thanks in advance for any prices you can send back to me.

Second off, For anybody that owns an RS, can you confirm that the wheels are mounted in the same way and would work as a straight swap to a 2014 model? The parts diagrams look very similar, but of course i'm not knowledgable enough to make that determination just from looking at those.

Finally, for RS owners, how jealous should i be of your awesome 17" tires?

Last week I received two O2 sensor eliminators from England with the plan to put them on my 2017 and see how the bike would run without O2 sensors before ordering a 4 into 4 exhaust system.
However thinking how much of symmetrical person I am , I thought perhaps I should look for a 4 into 4 on my 2013.
I could give up the center stand as I have rear stands for tire/chain work and I had sports bikes before without a center stand.
With some 4 into 4 system you can still use the O2 sensors and no need for pair valve work. Does any has a Moriwaki 4 into 4 on a 2013 AND left everything else intact and no mapping/flashing needed ?
I will also contact Mr. T. for more info on this exhaust or the Wyvern.

https://youtu.be/5YMN5C1sGCo

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