HELP GAUGE REMOVAL /CUSTOM TACH

[PowerDubs_imp]

OK, looking at the ‘14 std diagram. Yes, it has the serial data line. That started in ‘14

BUT, it shows the wheel sensor going directly into the meter on the VSP+ and VSP- lines. That is 2 lines, not one like the ABS model Deluxe. So I apparently a different meter for ABS and non-ABS models.

One reason is that the ABS version will have the indicator on the dash. Certainly don't want an ABS indicator on a non-ABS bike either.

So when I get a chance to head back to my garage, I will take a light and shine it at my 14 standard and see if I can see an ABS spot on the indicator, not saying it would ever light up but it would not surprise me to see it there.


One of my cars has an option for an upgraded stereo, and literally the only difference is the amplifier itself. The plugs on the amplifier are physically the same shape but the pin out is different. All someone needs to do is buy the upgraded amplifier out of a wrecked car, like eBay and change the pin position in the wiring harness which is easy to do if you have the tool. The interesting thing is that the Radiohead unit automatically recognizes the different amp being plugged in and changes its own software behavior inside and gives new options in the settings and EQ for the upgraded stereo without needing to change anything again other than the actual amplifier and pin locations in the wiring harness.


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[tommymck]

The timescale on max's post wasn't displayed, but on popgun's display, the frequency of the waveform looks significantly higher than the spatial frequency of the holes in the disk. I'm assuming then that the holes have nothing to do with rotation detection and that it's something magnetic?

[Lord Popgun]

The sensor is an inductive sensor. The holes don't cause an output, the metal bar between the holes do.

Here is a link that shows and explains how they work: https://cecas.clemson.edu/cvel/auto/sens...speed.html

I think Max mentioned that if you take a sensor and connect it to a meter (an analog one works great) and wave a screwdriver by the sensor head, you will see the needle move. I've done on many times on an Chevy crankshaft position sensor I have laying around.

[GoldOxide_imp]

The implementation could probably be made more robust if hall-effect sensors were used. The implementation could be more resistant to environment encoder contamination and impairment due to misalignment. However, the cost would go up a bit.

[Tev62]

The sensor is an inductive sensor. The holes don't cause an output, the metal bar between the holes do.

Here is a link that shows and explains how they work: https://cecas.clemson.edu/cvel/auto/sens...speed.html

I think Max mentioned that if you take a sensor and connect it to a meter (an analog one works great) and wave a screwdriver by the sensor head, you will see the needle move. I've done on many times on an Chevy crankshaft position sensor I have laying around.

The 90's Triumph's used these inductive sensors as a crankshaft position sensor (CPS). They caught many owners out in that they would fail when hot, conking out the bike. After 20-30 minutes they would cool down and work again allowing the owner to start the bike. A lot of head scratching followed?

If an owner did suspect the CPS you could easily test them by seeing if they were within the specified impedance range. All it took was a simple test with a cheap multimeter. Of course you usually tested when you got home after the bike had cooled and they always passed with flying colours.

I dread to think how many owners ripped the fuel lines and carbs apart looking for fuelling problems. These days the issue is so well known I would say almost every 90's Triumph owners has a spare one in their tool box box.

[peterbaron]

If an engine has a healthy crank and does not fire, I always do these in this order:
*1 first, check for spark
*2 then, check for fuel
Diagnosis is almost completed.

[GoldOxide_imp]

The sensor is an inductive sensor. The holes don't cause an output, the metal bar between the holes do.

Here is a link that shows and explains how they work: https://cecas.clemson.edu/cvel/auto/sens...speed.html

I think Max mentioned that if you take a sensor and connect it to a meter (an analog one works great) and wave a screwdriver by the sensor head, you will see the needle move. I've done on many times on an Chevy crankshaft position sensor I have laying around.

The 90's Triumph's used these inductive sensors as a crankshaft position sensor (CPS). They caught many owners out in that they would fail when hot, conking out the bike. After 20-30 minutes they would cool down and work again allowing the owner to start the bike. A lot of head scratching followed?

If an owner did suspect the CPS you could easily test them by seeing if they were within the specified impedance range. All it took was a simple test with a cheap multimeter. Of course you usually tested when you got home after the bike had cooled and they always passed with flying colours.

I dread to think how many owners ripped the fuel lines and carbs apart looking for fuelling problems. These days the issue is so well known I would say almost every 90's Triumph owners has a spare one in their tool box box.

The 90's Triumph's used these inductive sensors as a crankshaft position sensor (CPS). They caught many owners out in that they would fail when hot, conking out the bike. After 20-30 minutes they would cool down and work again allowing the owner to start the bike. A lot of head scratching followed?

If an owner did suspect the CPS you could easily test them by seeing if they were within the specified impedance range. All it took was a simple test with a cheap multimeter. Of course you usually tested when you got home after the bike had cooled and they always passed with flying colours.

I dread to think how many owners ripped the fuel lines and carbs apart looking for fuelling problems. These days the issue is so well known I would say almost every 90's Triumph owners has a spare one in their tool box box.
Sounds similar to some GM vehicle sensors I knew that failed below 5C. The sensor would be packed in epoxy and when it got down to a certain temperature (e.g. below 5C), an embedded component would "open" and fail the [security] module and the fuel pump would not start. For the owner, it would be a surprise in the winter.

Suggestive: If the issue is random, it is mostly likely an electrical issue. If the issue is temperature dependent, then it is a mechanical issue - typically affecting an electrical component like a plastic connector.