I know i post rarely but check here at least every couple days to see what's new in CB1100 world. One of our MC brothers lost his life this morning. I've lived here in the same place for 12 years, go the same route this driver goes every single morning to work. Reportedly he ran a red light. This is 1/8 mile from where I live...God rest him. Can't say this doesn't shake me up a bit, not to mention the wife. Stay safe please.

http://fox5sandiego.com/2015/08/24/motoc...-with-suv/
http://www.sandiegouniontribune.com/news...llwood-54/

Installed SW-MOTECH 1" rise & 1" pullback risers from Twisted Throttle on my 2014 CB 1100 with no problems. Clutch and brake hose were of sufficient length to allow this installation. For me this makes a more comfortable ride position.
Any day you can get vertical and ride your bike is a good day.

Hi all,

can somebody explain WHY both of the adjusters had to be turned in this tutorial video?

the link jumps right to the important bit
[url=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zcLLgs42IuI&t=7m35s]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zcLLgs42IuI&t=7m35s

basically the guy turns upwards in one direction and he turns the adjusters on the other side downwards, but why is that?

If he wanted to tight his chain, he just has to adjust one adjuster, but is the reason he did both adjuster just for alignment purposes?


thx

I owned the 2013 model but after 25 miles or so both she and I had to relieve our bums!At that time there wasn't any upgrades available and so I changed the bike. The rest of it I really liked.
Just ordered the EX and see the saddle looks nigh on the same but with different cover.
Corbin produce an upgrade and I assume it will fit as it doesn't actually claim to cater for 2015 bikes.
Would anyone know or suggest another possible upgrade? I'd be satisfied with 50 miles before getting off but 100 would be more like it ideally.
Good to be back and thanks for reading.

Sorry to re-visit a subject that apparently has been beat to death, but I am.

Interested in a bit taller gearing for my 2013 5 speed, would like to drop the rpm's a bit while cruising along.
I've done the forum searches and read as many existing threads and postings as I could find multiple times and am a touch confused as to one item - if I increase the countershaft sprocket by one tooth do I need to modify the sprocket cover to alleviate clearance issues - grind away to make more room?

Does changing (reducing) just the rear sprocket by two or possibly one teeth make any appreciable difference or is it pretty much just spending money for the pleasure of spending money?

As a new owner, I am still on the learning curve with this machine. Here is where I am. Hopefully I will be in a position to help others after I get up the curve.

1) Clunk. I had a real concern about the clunky shift into 1st gear. It happened no matter whether I was downshifting/engine braking, or shifting down at a stop. Reading this board, I found the chain tension How To. I checked my chain tension and it was wobbling almost TWO INCHES OF DEFLECTION. So much for Dealer Prep. This is a new 2013 sold by a dealer. Fortunately I have a decent set of tools except for the 32mm socket, which I obtained at Sears yesterday. Following the How To, I got the tension down to one inch. This made a huge difference. It downshifts one-by-one to first like butter. There is still a *little* clunk if I come to a quick stop and downshift, say, 4-3-2-1 all at once, but it seems within reason.

Question: I was pretty careful to adjust each chain tensioning bolt the same amount--got the right axle nut tightened to spec. The lines on the rear axle bracket seem like a very rough way, though, to ensure the rear wheel is perfectly straight. Eyeballing it, the right and left seem the same. But part of me wonders if there is another way to check straightness. Am I overthinking this?

2) Oil level. The oil level window is completely submerged. Again, so much for Dealer Prep. Given that this is a new 2013, and the oil has probably been in there for over a year, should I just change it now (so I know exactly how old the oil is), putting in the right amount? (Bike has 100 miles on it). Or just drain a little out until the level shows in the window? I'm leaning towards changing it now.

3) Givi Rear Carrier. I installed one last night. I didn't see a how-to on that--if I missed it, sorry; otherwise I could post one if people are interested. Main thing I learned is you have to drop the rear fender to get a wrench on the rear mounting nut.

I went down a few weeks ago on my CB in a heavy thunderstorm. The radar was clear when I left and the roads were just wet. Lesson learned there, don't trust the weatherman. I have been waiting to get it back from the dealer. Should be this week. I used to work there and the guys know me and pretty well. The mechanic working on my bike told me he wouldn't have even turned it in to the insurance. The only reason I did is because my staintune exhaust has a scar now. No dents, just a long thin scratch. A felllow cb110 rider told me to just buff it out. The insurance covered getting a new one. Now I have a spare. Total damage was under $3k including tax and labor, but $900 of that cost is the staintune and $300 for a front fender I'm not convinced is even damaged. It was rode to the shop and all of the damage was purely cosmetic according to the shop. When I inquired as to whether or not the frame could be bent or a weld cracked they said no way. That made me feel better. Having past experience working there I knew the answer but I wanted to hear someone else say it.

I'm definitely not done riding, but I have a certain fear I'm not familiar with. Last week a friend had surgery and needed his FZ6 moved from his parents house. I've rode it twice before. I could barely lean over on it and found myself going 10 under the speed limit. I'm no road racer, but I've dragged the pegs on the CB. I enjoy a spirited ride. I'm worried that I won't enjoy riding the same way I used to.

Want to make your own paper model CB1100? Print out the attached .pdf and have at it with scissors!

Finally lowered my bars. Wasn’t liking any of the clip-on options I was seeing, especially with the tank clearance issues.

So far, I adore these steel Speed Merchant old-style racing bars. Much lower, and less wide, than the TypeII stock bars. Hand position is super comfortable (for me) and they seem custom made for this bike (2013 ABS). I'm still getting 3/8” tank clearance at full lock, and everything fits around the cowl perfectly. Didn’t need to shorten brake or clutch cables. I did need to drill them for the nubs on the controls (super easy). Really love the lines these bars create.

Bars:


Profile:


Tank clearance (full lock):


I got them here:
[url=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T6J8UIA]Amazon Link

Riding at Point White on Bainbridge Island, WA.