As I put a several more miles on the new-to-me 2014 CB1100, I'm finding the engine to be a pleasant surprise.

The day this April when I took delivery and rode from the Fairmont WV dealer home to Hudson, Ohio, it was obvious it had a bunch of low end torque. But just recently, I've began bumping up the revs. Not red-line bumping, but every now and then rolling 1st gear to 5000rpm, shifting and doing the same in 2nd and 3rd. Oops ..... that puts me way over the limit! Although the red line is over 8000 rpm, it just doesn't seem necessary to rev anywhere near that high to experience the power produced by the engine.

I'm still planning to continue working on the suspension to get it where it really suits me and the roads I like to ride.

Only one other issue that I wish was fixable, and that is the substantial amount of free play in the drive line. I can ride around it by careful use of throttle and clutch, but I do wish there was a way to reduce the mechanical clunk I occasionally experience when I let off the throttle too abruptly. Does anyone have any ideas about this? It isn't a deal-breaker, but if it is something as simple as a cush block modification, that'd be great.

BTW - has the factory published any recalls or notices I may have missed? I've seen none.

Bob

WoooHooo...So I make it to the campground to day and what did I see? Another 2013 CB1100. A guy named Jessy has been staying/working here at the campground for the summer. I'm looking forward to a weeks worth (minus Monday due to 100% chance of rain) of riding and relaxation. If you are in the area and want to ride, send me a text at: 843-303-3132. I don't have reception at the camp, but I will be able to check it a couple of times a day. Plus, you can PM me here.

IMO. A really exceptional bike that'd I'd prefer to a brand new 2017 EX

[url=https://www.cycletrader.com/listing/2014-Honda-CB+1100+DELUXE-5000529225?zmc=search-alert-listing]2014 Deluxe for Sale in San Diego

Quoteristine '14 CB1100 Deluxe with ABS. Less than 100 miles, always garaged, started and run at least once a month and oil has been changed 3 times. Over $2200 in tasteful upgrades: OEM rear rack from Japan still in box, chrome gauge covers - Japan, Dart flyscreen - England, GSG-Moto frame sliders - Germany, Ohlins rear shocks - Sweden, SuperBrace fork brace - USA, front axle & bar sliders and billet license plate frame. Includes $600 in OEM spare parts including Honda service manual. Also will include battery tender, new battery and dust cover. Have all receipts. This model was only imported to the US 1yr (2014) and is a true collectable. $10,500 price is firm.

a scooter boy knows nothing about engines....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=imjlHbEBlWo

Pterodactyl and I were there! Wow!

So three days after buying my brand new CB1100, I hit a deer. Yes, I'm okay, kept the bike upright, folded a turn signal back into the tank, and the deer's head hit the tank as well...two large dents in it the tank. I kept driving it until the claim check came in, and ordered a new tank.

So I replaced the tank...wow, this was not as simple as I thought it was going to be.
I removed the seat, removed the side cover (left), and disconnected the electrical connection.
I removed the tank bolt, lifted up the tank, removed the rubber boot and bolt, and then removed the vent line. I then disconnected the fuel line (interesting state of the art connector there, I might add) and slid the tank off. No problems there.

The new tank was bare, and I removed the bolts to the plate that holds the fuel pump assembly. It was tricky getting it out, but I did not force it, I just turned it until it came out, being careful to not tweak or bend the fuel float arm. I moved this assembly over to the new tank, reinstalled it the same way, and moved the gas cap over to the new tank as well.

I dribbled about a half a gallon of gas into the new tank after reinstalling everything (side cover, tank bolt assembly, seat, etc) and headed to the gas station.

When I pulled out I heard a clunking coming from inside the tank, like the fuel float was bumping the side of the tank perhaps on the inside. After a few seconds (30 or so) it stopped. I continued to the gas station and filled her up.

After filling up, the gas gauge read 1/2 tank. It also did not tell me my mpg on trip A where it was currently set. After about a mile, it jumped to 3/4 tank, but I know this to be false, because it was a full fill up, it should have read full tank.

Did I do something wrong? What was the clunking? Has anyone ever run into this? Is there a reset for the computer that resets the gas gauge?

Thoughts, folks?

I'm on a bit of a journey with this bike. After putting a couple thousand miles on it and learning what I like and don't like I'm starting to make some more changes.

Today I completed the "controls" update. I started with Pazzo levers when I first got the bike but finished up by adding Rizoma risers, Renthal bars and Rizoma bar ends. The mirrors are the Bikemaster Tube mirrors. I also changed out the turn signals for the LP aluminum ones front and rear which are way smaller and look way less goofy than the stock '13 signals. I have the Puig raptor on there but honestly I don't think I like the look. I've got a Dart on the way in midnight and I am going to try that as well. Based on what I am seeing I think I will prefer the Dart.

The position is a lot more natural to me, I felt like I was halfway between forward controls position and standard. This gets my torso a bit more forward, my wrists a bit more straight and puts my hips in a better position on the Corbin seat and it's even more comfortable now. Again key words here are "for me".

Headlight is the JW Speaker and I have a thread for it here:
http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=11421

This winter I have a few things planned. I'm going to be powdercoating the wheels black, and I am going to try to replicate the Bad Seeds side covers. I'm going to leave the fenders chrome as I don't want a completely blacked out look. Along with this I am going to be moving to a 19T front sprocket and I'll be doing a bunch of driveline maintenance (new chain, cush, tires). I've already replaced the pads with EBC HH and they bite great.

I have some cheapo aluminum pegs on there. The rubber OEM ones felt too bulky to me and I felt disconnected to the bike when pushing on the outside peg in turns. The rubber moved around too much on the peg.

Still torn on the SW Motech bars. I'm not into the look of them and I already pay for insurance on the bike so why do I need them. I don't have the OEM hardware that goes back on it so that's the only thing keeping me from ripping them off right now.

I'm also going to swap out these ridiculously terrible stock shocks for something that holds a solid line in a rough turn. These shocks are great for relaxed riding but as soon as you get a little aggressive with them they fall apart. Still trying to figure out what to get here. My heart says Ohlins but my brain tells me that there are other choices. I want something a bit better than the Ikons. (Nothing against them just looking for something I can push a bit harder, the roads I ride on are not in the greatest condition).

Anyways, no post complete without pics. I'll use this as my "build thread" for those who are interested in watching this hot mess.






Keep an eye on the classifieds section for anything that comes off the bike, as I'll be trying to unload the stuff here before I go to ebay.

Today I spent me a new helmet, Arai Axces-II. My first Arai so far, fits very well.



I really like the mechanics of the visor.

The Arai is a little heavier than my Shoei, but more comfortable.

Then I got a new tank bag, SW Motech City:

Finally pulled the trigger on a top case.
Well that picture ain't all that big. In person, on the bike, it does not look too big. However; sitting in the livingroom the thing looked huge!

Monokey system vs. the Monolock I have on the Griso.

Any riders in New Mexico?