Hi all,

Thought I would share some info on my first significant mod where I switched from my Stock Handlebars to a set of Renthal 758 Super Lows (7/8" in Black). I picked a set up from Dennis Kirk (Order info: Renthal Ultra Low Handlebar - 758-01-BK Part #: 5905282).

Stock vs Renthal comparison:

Several inch drop in the Renthal over Stock.

Stock side shot vs Renthal comparison:


Angular bend feels to be quite comparable to stock so ergonomics feels pretty spot on.

Just for kicks, I flipped the Renthal bar over to see if you could run them in a "Clip on" mode.

One problem I see with this approach is the lack of clearance on each side btwn the Switch Clusters & the Tank.

Since I'm sure Handlebar swaps have been covered, I'll simply share a couple of "tricks" I found along the way for posterity's sake:

To remove the LH Grip, I slipped a flat blade screwdriver btwn the Grip and the Bar and shot some WD-40 in. I slid the screwdriver around every 90 degrees or so, reapplying the WD-40. Gave a gentle tug and viola, Grip slid right off.

The WD-40 was still present enough during reassembly that the grip slid on the new Bar with no trouble. I went out an hour afterwards, and the grip was stuck in place firmly, so the WD-40 evaporates in short time.

Lastly, I came across a thread on this Forum in the Search function which demonstrated how to remove the four beauty Plugs covering the SHCS's in the Bar Clamps using a Cargo Knife. I use a Lock-blade Knife, worked quite well. This step should be approached delicately so as not to damage the little beauty Plugs.

Speaking of the beauty Plugs, I recommend waiting until the job is complete and you've test ridden to ensure the Bar is set exactly where you want before reinstalling the Plugs. Otherwise you end up removing them multiple times...although you do improve your technique and it goes easier each time. I found four times was perfect for me.

Anyway, hope this helps somebody as much as a couple of the other Handlebar posts helped me along the way.

Cheers!
One thing I forgot to mention, the Throttle Cable does not run the same path as it did when stock, for obvious reasons. I can now feel a very slight amount of resistance on the Throttle. I'm suspecting it is due to the angle change of the Cables.

Would I be ok altering the Radius of the two metal Metal Guides attached to the Switch Cluster to created a more gentle radius, hopefully relieving the resistance on the Cables?

I have a Honda top box but between having the wrong rear carrier and getting the key set up it's been sitting in a box for 2 years. What's your favorite top box that works with the 2013 Honda Rack and preferably has a back rest pad?


Also who wants to buy an OEM red Case top case haha.

It’s OK, nobody would steal a Harley.

https://imgur.com/a/uPfyAUz

This 2020 Concours 14 followed me home from Delaware today. It was so cute and only had 10 miles so I just couldn’t say no. I’ve got a rather large parking space in the underground garage where I live but now it has to hold four bikes. I’m going to have to get creative….






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I love these things. They seem to filter the most annoying range of sound but still allow traffic sounds. So light, it's easy to forget they're in place.
Ordered from Amazon.

Hi,

so I just got the luggage system in the title and I was looking at the mounting instructions. They are really poor indeed, but there is one thing that kind of worries me. The system asks for the complete removal of the side grab bars and the rear indicators will need to be moved further back than their original position.

My question is: how do I dismantle the indicators? I need to feed the wire out of the side grab bars in order to remove them and re-feed in the C system rack. What is the best way to go about this?

Thanks!

Hey gang
My '10 Cb has what I believe to be a fuel/air issue. It has had a K&N filter and Staintune muffler since I bought it, and I've always had an issue when trying to maintain around the 2500rpm mark - gets jumpy and doesn't want to sit smoothly no matter the gear, just always around that rpm.
I've since fit a bigger aftermarket pipe, and the issue has become worse, also now harder to start, and popping/backfiring like a mofo on decel.
Was looking to fit a Power Commander to rectify the issues, and to pull a bit more (and smoother) power out of her, but they don't offer one for my year model.

Anyone got a suggestion for an alternative?

Cheers in advance

I bought a '13 CB/c-ABS as a demo with 4500 kms and sold it at 56K kms but at 50K kms, I started looking for a younger ride.
The next one was a '14 STD/ABS with 17K kms and now it has almost 57K kms, so again, some time ago I started looking for a lower kms CB.
There is absolutely nothing wrong with my rides and I never encountered any problem whatsoever.

I found two, both 2014 STD/ABS models, with roughly 20K kms and C$8500 each.
Kept monitoring the above bikes from time to time and then suddenly a DLX with 20K kms of similar price popped up...,wow, I said, soon, its gonna be mine ...
The ad reads: "1st owner, brought it from the US, in excellent condition.... ", plus a few pics.
Infos were exchanged a few times and I learned that the DLX owner (from now A) is in BC and his bike is located in my area.
I shared this secret news with one US member...yap !!
Due to covid, its owner was not able to return back to Ontario, and no one else would be able to show me the bike.
A few weeks went by and I got a message saying that within a few weeks A is flying back to Ontario and if I am still interested in buying his DLX...lol, I said, for sure I am..
I tried to make an arrangement and I was told that the bike is located 250 kms north... and there are two buyers before me with already scheduled appointments.
I decided to share this news with Alain Lee/'17 EX and after our conversation, Alain acknowledged knowing A and even was riding with him once or twice.
Alain also told me that A is very strict and keeps all his bikes in pristine condition, he actually has a 1974 Kawi 900Z in mint condition.
The situation gets tense, so we came up with a bull price plan.
The owner is surprised with my request and needs some time to think about it.
As a straightforward and honest man, A declines my offer, mentioning about two other buyers.
I had no choice but to wait....nerve wrecking situation..
Last Friday while at work, I got a message from A that both buyers cancelled their appointments with the request to show up today. He also mentioned that the price is firm - no negotiations....wow again, no problem for me, as I had assurance from Alain to give me a car lift to the DLX location.
We stopped at my bank to get MO and gave A periodic updates.
We arrived at 5:30 pm, finalized the transaction and without checking the bike, we were back on our 250 kms home journey at 6 pm.
I home safely arrived at 9:30 pm.

On Sunday, Alain came with his bike to visit me and we had three CBs in my garage.

Beautiful bike in showroom condition, pampered with only 20K kms with a few accessories.
Again, I contacted A, thanked and informed him that the legal transfer was already completed and he was very happy to hear that.

Lord Popgun and Alain for your patronage and support

On a 2013 CB1100 is the display between the tach/speedo supposed to go blank when you you turn the key off ?, my bike shows the E and F where the fuel gauge is and a outline above it. If this stays on will it draw on the battery?, thanks for any info on this.

I've been thinking about this and someone mentioned using a CB750 seat in the gel pad discussion below. The question: Would any seats from older CBs fit a 2013 CB1100? Maybe my ass was less bony back then but I swear the seat on my 1980 CB 750F was more comfortable. Anyone out there using a vintage seat on their modern ride?