I was wondering if anyone knows of a similar fairing to the one on the Rebel 500 SE or if said fairing might even fit on the CB.


[url=https://www.motea.com/de/lampenmaske-fur-honda-rebel-500-cmx-20-22-scheinwerfer-verkleidung-craftride-rm4-windschild-a190974-0]This seems to be the one on the Rebel but no idea if it would fit with the instruments or size of the headlights and mounting hardware.

I have not been able to log in or send messages, on the last day of work 2 weeks ago, I got hit with Bell's Palsy. I cannot hardly see out of my good, the one stuck open, and my right eye has been about half functioning since a tumor was removed from that eye over 20 years ago. There are probably typos in this, as my eye is watering lots. Just when school was to be out and I was going to get the DLX finally together....that is when what you do not expect, happens. I will not be replying to this post until the palsy goes away or when I can see again. Yes, I have been riding for over 20 years with only one good eye, but still I have yet to go down...knock on wood or my head. I know you guys always stand with any of us when we are down & out, but I am not out for good. To the gentlemne I have sent messages about the DLX tank, it is still good, I have just got to be be able to see to do anything. You guys all take care, I am going to be resting and doing therapy. Hope to reply to this post asap, Michael.

As promised, though a bit delayed, here's the installation of the Smart Turn System on my 2017 RS.

For those who don't know what it is, it's basically automatic indicator cancellation based on lean angle acceleration etc. here's their [url=https://st2-systems.com/st2-turn-system/]homepage.

Instead of cutting into the main electrical harness like mentioned in the guide I figured this could be done without any cuts with some additional plugs. By coincident I found the [url=https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BJGVJRG]correct ones on Amazon though I still don't know what the name of them is (throw it in the comments if you know so I can label them correctly).

As this is very specific to the model year of CB I won't give any guide on which pin on the plug does what.




I started out by preparing the wiring but not yet installing the plugs since I did not check how much space there was to insert the cables but there is plenty so fully assembled would have been fine. One plug has 4 wires the other 5 so no need to mark the white plugs as long as you are careful.




Since the preinstalled cable on the module is pretty short and the box needs to be mounted level with the ground and with the logo arrow facing up in drive direction I figured I needed to mount it under the tank. After some struggles with the tank that placement was already out of range for the cable length so I decided on a stainless steel angle mounted to the cooler.



I forgot to take photos of the required mod of the indicator switch and since it has some easy to loose parts I don't feel like taking it apart again (sorry). It works pretty much as shown in their guides but you need to completely remove the switch from the housing as the places to insert the foam are on the back side of the switch. The place the wires exit the housing has a small plastic cover flap make sure not to loose it.

It all works pretty well and first try on the wiring. I might still design a better mounting bracket but it works just fine as is.

In the future I'll add a Smart Brake Module and a wireless charging phone holder both also no cut mods as by chance the option connectors on the bike are predestined for them.

If you were to buy a CB1100 these coming days, and miraculously there were several on the market with different colors (and all the rest identical). Which one would you choose ?

A MotoWash demonstration, and a pretty good-looking Moto Guzzi Griso that didn't need a cleanin'. Enjoy!

[url=https://videos.files.wordpress.com/fuqxfi2m/motorcycle-wash_large_hd.mp4]

(click on image)

I am very happy to report I have purchased a 2013 CB1100 in Bemidji, Minnesota and will be flying out in July to ride it home to western Oregon. I previously had a 2013 CB1100 along with 5 other beautiful machines that were all lost when everything I owned burned to the ground in the September 2020 Oregon wildfires. The CB1100 is the one that I had to replace as it just does it for me like no other bike. It just does.

Im getting up there on the Odometer so im thinking about those friction plates and their condition more and more often. As such, ive decided to start the research process to see if its the kind of surface level low risk stuff I can handle.

My cursory research tells me the basic process is to

get a new set of clutch plates and a gasket,

drain the motor oil,

remove the clutch cover,

clean the gasket surface meticulously,

undo the clutch spring bolts evenly,

remove all the plates and keep them in order,

soak the new plates in motor oil for a few hours,

put the new plates on in the same order,

torque the spring bolts on evenly and set them to the correct torque,

put the clutch cover/new gasket back on,

put the new oil in the motor and off you go.

So: has anybody replaced their clutch plates? What mileage?

Any special tools or procedures i should know about? Any anecdotes about parts of the process that gave you trouble?

Reccomendations on where to buy the plates? It looks like the set from EBC is the best option i can find.

Thanks for any input gang.

This has only happened once but it made me think.

As i was following slow traffic i kept my usual generous distance, this was a good thing because i could just see a bunch of nails spread out in front of me that had fallen off a vehicle and had just enough time to swerve around them, parked the bike, inspected the tires and went back to pick the nails up.
There were about 50 of them and 3 inches long they could have produced more holes than i was able to fix on the road side.

So i just managed to avoid them thanks to the distance behind the car in front of me, i do keep a close watch on the traffic around me and adapt the distance so traffic can see me but don't leave enough room to merge in front of me, it's a balancing act.

This drive style does take practice in the beginning but after a year or so it becomes second nature and constantly checking mirrors becomes as easy as shifting gears, just a quick peek in the mirror, checking the picture in my mind afterwards whilst watching the traffic ahead again.
I adopted this style after reading forums, watching video's and thinking what improvements i could make to avoid scratches on the bike and worse.

Also avoid suspect bits of road which could have loose gravel, oil, diesel, water, potholes etc.
Don't inspect the road with your tires, let someone else do it instead, just avoid these things that don't look right, just an idea....

AS of this morning- I am now a Dynojet motorcycle dyno owner.

Figured I'd make a thread about these adventures.

This is a very early unit- literally from the 90's so I will be updating it to the most current electronics & software.

You really never see these in a trailer form. Sometimes owners bolt them to trailers but this IS a trailer.

Dual purpose- the dyno itself is mobile, and I can transport my bike on it at the same time where-ever I want to go.

Just got off the phone with Dynojet placing an order to bring it up to modern spec- and learned that I don't *need* the a/f box they sell to shops that runs off a shop air compressor to suck in the tailpipe sniffer- since my bike has their autotune box already- I can just plug in and use that for a reading. Also- if I want to test another bike- as long as it has an 18mm bung (or they sell an inexpensive way to make it work)- I can use my existing autotune box & sensor to read that bike.

Works for me- because once I install my new dual sensor autotune for my upcoming 4-4 exhaust so I can tune each side separately- I will have the original autotunebox / sensor unused and able to do whatever I want with it. *IF* I ever want the O2 tailpipe sniffer later on - I can add it.

I also won't need to use the existing RPM clamp- as the dyno can interface with the power commander as well for RPM pickup. (for any of you that have dynoed before- that is HUGE as the inductives are always a PITA.)

Stretching various ways my legs on my highway long rides I began thinking about mounting some footrests on my Fehling chrash bar. Anybody any experience with crashbar footrests on our beloved CB EX?