How to remove 2013 Rear ABS/Speed sensor

[danieljrmurray_imp]

Ya'll will never guess what the issue with the bike is.
My bike, as it turns out does NOT have ABS, contrary to what I was told by the previous owner.
I installed an ABS meter assembly. Everything else on the bike is basically the same except that part.
It's looking for a front ABS sensor at the start sequence which is why the speedo doesn't work and the ABS light stays on.
Good news is it's a super easy swap. 1 beer job.
I thought I'd likely be able to return it because the Odometer still reads 0 and there is no way they'd be able to tell. EXCEPT
I bought that part from Bike Bandit, which if I haven't mentioned did not ship about $150 in parts to me, and now their phone number is no longer in service and there is no way to contact them. I assume they folded.
A new one from MegaZip, the company that has been doing really well sending me parts is $850. NBD, but now I'm cuss out of all of that cash no matter what.
At least I know for sure what the problem is this time and it actually makes sense.

took another shop I took it to 30 minutes to figure it out. Which makes total sense based off what others have told me.

[the Ferret]

Wait, I thought in post 1 you said your ABS light was stuck on?

A 2013 without ABS, wouldnt light up an ABS light in any case. Did it light up before you wrecked it? I also dont think a non ABS bike would come from the factory with an ABS sensor installed which you said your bike had, which you replaced.

I'm confused.

[danieljrmurray_imp]

Wait, I thought in post 1 you said your ABS light was stuck on?

A 2013 without ABS, wouldnt light up an ABS light in any case. Did it light up before you wrecked it? I also dont think a non ABS bike would come from the factory with an ABS sensor installed which you said your bike had, which you replaced.

I'm confused.

The rear ABS sensor and wheel speed sensor are one in the same. They have different part numbers but look identical and, in both ABS, and non-ABS diagrams, they are listed as a wheel speed sensor, just with a slightly different part number. The front tire on my bike does not have a pulsar ring. I never realized that my bike was missing that because I've never looked at the front wheel diagram. I would have noticed that if I had and realized I did not have an ABS bike like the seller told me. The new meter and plug for said meter are for an ABS bike, which is why the light comes on because it's not getting a signal from the front ABS sensor which it checks for on start up. It's triggering the engine code and tripping limp mode because the engine code is a wheel speed sensor code.

The ABS light was not on before the accident, the bike had no lights on the dash or a single issue before the wreck and the ABS "not working" was precisely why I wrecked because I carelessly railed the rear brake thinking I had ABS.

Hopefully that adds some clarity.

[the Ferret]

Oh ok, you were talking the slotted ring on the rear wheel and not an electrical sensor type switch in the wiring. I follow now.

Many times buyers were told their 2013s had rear ABS only by unknowing salesmen. It came up here on this forum many times.

[Cormanus]

Glad you sorted the problem Daniel, but sorry you’re out of pocket. BikeBandit has folded, http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=18004

[Gone in 60]

That can be a misleading part of the bike... when I was looking at my bike, I asked the owner if it had rear-only ABS. He said he didn't know (he hadn't ridden it much), which led me to ask here on the forum, learning that it was the speed sensor.

[pekingduck]

So to summarize, you have a complete 2013 ABS meter panel plugged into your 2013 STD, and everything works except:

- The speedometer does not indicate. What happens when you turn the key on? Do the needles sweep to full, then back? Or does the needle stay stationary?
- There is a 6500 rev limit.
- The ABS light never goes off, because it is the wrong gauge.
- There is/was a pop or popping sound as the fuel pump pressurizes - has that been diagnosed? I hope it isn't related to the wrong meter. The fuel sender unit inside the tank, which is a variable resistor.

Note in the comparison of 2013 STD and ABS meter assembly below, your harness is supplying (+) power into the ground side of the fuel meter, and may be causing arcing, like a pop or snap sound. If this is what is happening, an explosion may occur inside the fuel tank. I would recommend not starting the bike unless you have the correct meter. I may be wrong about this, but please use caution. I ask others to please weigh in on this.

The illustration shows several other connections that do not correspond, so I am surprised the neutral light and tach are working - they shouldn't be. I don't think this meter can be made to work.