I'll keep this short and sweet.
Long story short I wrecked my bike, rebuilt it, new Tach works, speedo doesn't, ABS light on. Took it to shop to read codes, ABS sensor is confirmed bad, new one should fix issue.
They want 1.8 shop hours to do it plus parts put their repair costs about $550. Heeeeck no.
New sensor is in the mail, it's 2 bolts, a few clips and a connector under the side panel. Super easy. But how the heck do I get to the 2nd bolt? Do I absolutely have to pull the rear tire and remove the caliper? I'd like to avoid that if possible. I had to remove the center stand because it was bent and don't have a replacement yet taking it off and on is a PITA.
Videos for reference -
https://photos.app.goo.gl/zMSesQE1JYiDVYCQA
I'll go down to the garage later and take a look at my bike and tell you my thoughts...
Yea- tight spot.
Can't promise- but this might work- [url=https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-85035-35-MicroDriver-Set/dp/B0062FSAVI/ref=sr_1_16?crid=1WIQ2YDGC9ET6&keywords=low+profile+1%2F4+ratchet&qid=1651183056&sprefix=low+profile+1%2F4%2Caps%2C62&sr=8-16]https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-85035-...62&sr=8-16
That being said- did they 'confirm' simply based on the code- or did they actually take a meter and test the sensor?
They are rudimentary- and unlikely to fail.
First question - are you using the stock factory speedometer, or an aftermarket digital gauge?
If you are using the stock speedometer, what happens when you turn the key on? Do the needles sweep to full, then back? If they don't the problem is not the speed sensor.
Remember, the ABS light only goes off after both wheels have rolled 20 feet or so - it will never go off just sitting there, even if you spin up the rear wheel on the center stand.
Speed sensors almost never ever are defective in and of themselves - they are usually mis-diagnosed. If the pulser ring on the rear wheel is bent causing the clearance to be out of spec, it will not trigger. Because it can't give the ABS and PGM-FI modules any signal, it will give a code for the rear vehicle speed sensor CIRCUIT, which may not be the sensor itself. (Usually this happens when the wheel is off for a tire change.)
I would cancel the order if I were you, until I knew for sure it was the speed sensor.
If you really have to change the speed sensor, the only way to do it is unbolt the caliper, unplug and unhook the sensor, remove the axle enough to slide the caliper bracket back and off. At least you won't have to move the chain.
Huh. I just went out to the shop and took a look at mine.
A thought... if the old sensor is broken, why not remove the easy screw, break off the sensor, and have better access to the tight screw.
Then, when you put it back together, use an allen screw and use a round-head allen driver that gives you some angle to get above the swingarm. Replace it with the correct screw next time you remove the wheel to change tires.
I completely forgot I made this thread and didn't receive any updates in my email. My apologies.
I did end up ordering the sensor and replaced it. There is literally no change, which is really disappointing since I now spend $350 on a misdiagnosis and a new sensor. As pekingduck predicted. The engine light I actually am now realizing triggers a limp mode. Stops the bike after 6500rpm, which is totally unnoticeable unless you're really hammering on it. But the tech said the only codes were for a tip over sensor. But the engine light comes on after the first 30 seconds of riding but will not come on when cold and sat idling for any amount of time from what I can tell (though I've not sanity checked this, just my assumption as I warm the bike up as I gear up and the engine light stays off). Which I find strange. I need to go through the fuses, too. The tech also measured the spec for the abs ring and found it to be in spec.
Something else I noticed is when the fuel pump is started when I have the key on and the kill switch in the on position, at the end of the prime cycle there's a loud audible popping noise coming from the bike somewhere under the tank that was not present before the accident.
I've been riding the bike at all speeds, and everything seems totally fine other than the engine light and speedo not working. I'm stumped but I don't really want to take it back to the same shop that didn't get it right the first time.
(05-26-2022, 02:40 AM)danieljrmurray_imp Wrote: [ -> ]I completely forgot I made this thread and didn't receive any updates in my email. My apologies.
I did end up ordering the sensor and replaced it. There is literally no change, which is really disappointing since I now spend $350 on a misdiagnosis and a new sensor. As pekingduck predicted. The engine light I actually am now realizing triggers a limp mode. Stops the bike after 6500rpm, which is totally unnoticeable unless you're really hammering on it. But the tech said the only codes were for a tip over sensor. But the engine light comes on after the first 30 seconds of riding but will not come on when cold and sat idling for any amount of time from what I can tell (though I've not sanity checked this, just my assumption as I warm the bike up as I gear up and the engine light stays off). Which I find strange. I need to go through the fuses, too. The tech also measured the spec for the abs ring and found it to be in spec.
Something else I noticed is when the fuel pump is started when I have the key on and the kill switch in the on position, at the end of the prime cycle there's a loud audible popping noise coming from the bike somewhere under the tank that was not present before the accident.
I've been riding the bike at all speeds, and everything seems totally fine other than the engine light and speedo not working. I'm stumped but I don't really want to take it back to the same shop that didn't get it right the first time.
You might be entitled for a reimbursement?
Put up an item "For Sale" sign on a CB1100 forum.
(05-26-2022, 09:49 AM)peterbaron_imp Wrote: [ -> ] (05-26-2022, 02:40 AM)danieljrmurray_imp Wrote: [ -> ]I completely forgot I made this thread and didn't receive any updates in my email. My apologies.
I did end up ordering the sensor and replaced it. There is literally no change, which is really disappointing since I now spend $350 on a misdiagnosis and a new sensor. As pekingduck predicted. The engine light I actually am now realizing triggers a limp mode. Stops the bike after 6500rpm, which is totally unnoticeable unless you're really hammering on it. But the tech said the only codes were for a tip over sensor. But the engine light comes on after the first 30 seconds of riding but will not come on when cold and sat idling for any amount of time from what I can tell (though I've not sanity checked this, just my assumption as I warm the bike up as I gear up and the engine light stays off). Which I find strange. I need to go through the fuses, too. The tech also measured the spec for the abs ring and found it to be in spec.
Something else I noticed is when the fuel pump is started when I have the key on and the kill switch in the on position, at the end of the prime cycle there's a loud audible popping noise coming from the bike somewhere under the tank that was not present before the accident.
I've been riding the bike at all speeds, and everything seems totally fine other than the engine light and speedo not working. I'm stumped but I don't really want to take it back to the same shop that didn't get it right the first time.
You might be entitled for a reimbursement?
You might be entitled for a reimbursement?
I think that would maybe apply, but it was just labor for diagnosis that I paid for. Time was used, doesn't really matter if the diagnosis was wrong. I think they'd reimburse if I had them replace the part for me, but they wanted $550 for that and it's a $150 sensor and 2 bolts and a couple of clips so I did it myself.
Pull the seat, pull the tank bolt, lift it up as far as it will go and check the breather hose to make sure it is in its ‘track’ (there is a space for it) and that it isn’t kinking when the tank is set down.
Of course this is if it’s a pressure type pop, and not an electric arcing type pop.
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(05-26-2022, 10:47 AM)PowerDubs_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Pull the seat, pull the tank bolt, lift it up as far as it will go and check the breather hose to make sure it is in its ‘track’ (there is a space for it) and that it isn’t kinking when the tank is set down.
Of course this is if it’s a pressure type pop, and not an electric arcing type pop.
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That's on the list of things to do. The pop is definitely an electrical type pop. Only when the pump is priming and that's it.