just curious. Was reading an old review of the R-nine-T, and the subject came up.

No idea how to determine it on our bikes.

I've been studying up a bit on our beloved CB, and one of the persistent oddities I discovered was the unusual decision by the engine design team to give the big CB some character by engineering in a little roughness. Apparently, the engine was deemed "too refined" so they retarded the intake cam timing on just two cylinders to give the bike some soul, I guess. Stranger still, they went through the trouble of utilizing a counterbalancer to make the engine smooth! Seems counterproductive.

Anyway, this assymetrical cam timing comes at a cost in achievable top end horsepower I believe, so I'm going to look into this by buying a set of stock cams and taking some measurements. My engine builder and machinist can re-profile the intake cam to a symmetrical timing configuration, perhaps even altering the duration to get more horsepower out of this powerplant. The cylinder head is also modestly configured with relatively small port area, so perhaps some improvements can be made there too.

115-125 hp seems achievable, as long as I can get the engine management system to play with these changes. Anyone else look into this or know about it?

I tried to search on this as I can't be the first to ask this question, but can find nothing, so here goes. I was planning on changing the brake and clutch fluids today. 2013 and they are getting dark. When I tired to open the rear brake reservoir, you cannot get the cap off as it hits the frame. It looks like a "project" to loosen up the reservoir to tilt it, but I see no choice. Can't believe they would engineer it so you cannot open the cap without moving the reservoir. Am I missing something?

Thanks in advance for any help here

No perma-gray today (yea!). After the frozen fog burned off it was absolutely beautiful. Sun came out, temp jumped to high 40's and just a glorious day for a ride in December.

Same area I took the perma-gray pic for Cormanus. Notice actual shadows

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[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/ST%20ride%20Dec%206%202015%20003_zpspusyitu5.jpg.html]

Have to be aware of the forest rats this time of the year.. well always, but particularly this time of the year

[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/ST%20ride%20Dec%206%202015%20001_zpsv3xj7wpr.jpg.html]

I saw on an ST board that our own Ferret got tagged at a stop light the other day on his ST.

I hope you are OK Mickey!

And sorry if this is a dupe, I don't remember seeing it.

I followed what appears to be an old, well worn thread about the official Honda branded "U" lock, which is designed to stow away in a recessed area on the fender, under the seat, but ran into trouble.

Webike has two different ones available, but unfortunately they are too wide to fit. One lock is short, the other long, but neither are the right width. I emailed Takashi at Samurider about this "U" lock, but he says he is sold out.

I'm assuming the lock is discontinued then? Apparently the locks I have are not correct.

Anyone have one of these locks? Part number?

Please and Thank you.

Curious, has anyone experienced any problems with the CB from NOT using the clutch while shifting?

Would someone please tell me I have spent enough money on my CB1100 at this point? This thing has turned into a money pit and I haven't even looked at luggage racks, custom paint, etc. etc. and don't need to!

I successfully got the Yoshimura muffler installed on my 2014. As info, here are the tools needed: 12mm socket/rachet, 12mm wrench, 10mm wrench, 5mm long hex wrench, 5mm short hex wrench, rubber hammer (to spread the sides of the center stand bracket), something sticky (to hold the 2 spacers in place on the new bracket) and a light to see where things go. Honda did not provide much room to work underneath the CB1100.
Removing the stock muffler was easy. The new bracket was a bear to install, as it fit too snugly. Thus, some friendly persuasion with a rubber mallet convinced it to spread apart slightly. Then, I had to stick the washers on the inside of the bracket and carefully align the holes to insert the Yoshi supplied bolts. Just follow the instruction sheet which comes with the muffler and you will be fine. The pictorials are very accurate.
The order:
Place cycle on center stand. Remove stock muffler, remove the bolt on the right side of the swing arm bracket, attach the rubber inserts in the Yoshi stop bracket, install the stop bracket on the swing arm bracket, making sure the large spacer is on the right hand side of the bracket. Tighten bolts, slip on new Yoshi muffler using their clamp. The OEM gasket is not used. Slip on Yoshi clamp strap and tighten bolts, wipe off muffler with rubbing alcohol to remove oil film, fingerprints, etc. I used a pair of nitril gloves to handle my muffler. Note. The muffler will be very close to the axle nut so remember to use an open end wrench to loosen/tighten same. There will be very little room between the muffler and axle.

[url=http://s875.photobucket.com/user/rc750/media/DSCN6115_zps6blru6z2.jpg.html]
[url=http://s875.photobucket.com/user/rc750/media/DSCN6118_zpskabxuf6c.jpg.html]
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I passed some german site.Not completely as i like but some diferent. They also are active on you tube.

website:
http://www.super-bike-box.com/?page_id=20

youtube id:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf-DJIe...0Oe7hmKsjA