EICMA Milan '17

https://www.theweathernetwork.com/ca/vid...4221196001

pb

... who can tell you all about this image ...



Happy New Year!

UPDATE; new procedure for tps testing.

this is another approach in diagnosing the Idle Instability Issue.

In order to isolate which of the two parts is the source of trouble on the throttle body i discovered an interesting way to isolate the tps, you unplug it!

the following video shows how to do this and what tools are required, most of us can follow this procedure.

1 if your bike runs better after the tps is disconnected that would be an indication the tps is bad.
2 if it still has the same problem after disconnection it MAY be the iacv.

During the test drive i noticed three things;
1 cold idle is at 1250 rpm.
2 throttle response is " softer " and smooth handling may be required to keep it running on startup.
3 my exhaust vacuum valve did not operate ( think the bike is in a different mode )

It appears ok to drive this way but just to be on the safe side i would not recommend long periods unplugged riding.
What may work for you is giving you the length of cable as shown in the video but leaving it connected, go for a drive and when the idle is acting up stop, disconnect the connector and see what difference it makes, even several times to make sure the method is repeatable.

If success is achieved i suggest making a video showing; difference in rpm, connector disconnected and connected possibly several times.
this can easily be done with the bike running on the side stand.
if this is done correctly it may well lead to a refund or recognition of sorts by the dealer and dispel uncertainty.

This method has been done by several service personnel and documented as such.

Let's hear your experience with this method, it has to be the simplest to date because we really need some feedback from you affected owners.

https://youtu.be/gCALpJRQA8s

cheers max

Has anybody found more aesthetically pleasing replacement horns to replace the rather bland ones on the CB1100 please?

My 2013 CB1100 just turned 74,800 miles and for the winter I decided that it was time for some maintenance.

1) Fuel pump which really started to noticeably "whine" at 25,000 miles and which had degraded performance to the point where the motor was surging under load, needed attention. The Honda technician recommended replacing only the fuel filter, but since they can be replaced as a unit and I didn't consider that the filter was causing the annoying "whine", the pump/filter were replaced. The shop discounted $120.00 (or so they told me) for that unit for a cost of $448.00.

2) Original brake pads replaced (front 2 sets) $141.00, (rear set) $38.00

3) Fork seals $37.00

4 Hours labor @ $68.00 per hour = $272.00

Total including shop supplies = $963.63

All parts were OEM. The only other work I've had done on the bike were chain and sprockets at 54,000 miles. New air filter replacement at 50,000 mi. The valves were checked at 18,000 miles and within spec, no adjustments needed (I'll have them checked again at 100,000 miles). Original plugs are still in use. The bike runs great now and the annoying whine is gone.

I'm looking forward to ice-free roads and warmer weather next spring.

Happy New Year everyone!

http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=11978

Just bought a pristine 2013 and love the look of the bike. It has aftermarket Trackside handlebars without bar ends or any weights. These bars look like dirt bike bars with the strut spanning the bars. The buzz feels like I'm riding a 250 single. Even at low speeds.

I am not seeing this coming up as an issue on the forum, other than a non feeling vibration that sneaks up on you after a while.

Want to pull the trigger on a stock handle bar setup. Thoughts? Anyone have a complete set for a 2013?

I used the 2017 (rs model) grab bar for a cleaner look.

Anyone have experience with these?
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=...2455039261


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk