I suspect many people on the Forum share the exhilaration I feel when I fire up the CB1100 at the start of the day. The gentle, balance pulse of the engine, the throaty exhaust note, and the feel of my hands on the throttle and clutch assure me that at least the minutes or hours spent on the CB1100 will be spectacular regardless of what else lies ahead for the balance of the day.

But any time I ride, there are risks to me and the motorcycle. To help medicate those, I have a adopted a pre-ride ritual that has almost become muscle memory. It enables me to ensure that I am mentally and physically ready to ride, that my protective riding gear will protect me from harm, and that the motorcycle is safe to ride. It takes me approximately 20 minutes, start to finish. 

A case can be made that it is a little over the top bordering on excessive, but I am who I am. 

I am not a role model for anything, but I do hope there is something you find here that will help you find your own routine. You have friends and family who love you, and you ride a great motorcycle. If you do not want to do it for yourself, perhaps you can do it for them. 

Step 1: Wellness Assessment (5 minutes)— Before I ride, I gauge my spiritual, mental, and physical health. I am a devout Catholic, and I pray each day. I want to be in a state of grace for whatever lies ahead. Mentally, I do not ride if I am unduly stressed, agitated, or angry. Those states affect my judgment and can impact how I ride. Finally, I assess my physical well being. I will not ride if I have had less than six hours sleep the night before. I check my blood pressure daily. If it is not in an acceptable range, I do not ride. If I injured myself or if I am physically ill, I do not ride. I find riding a motorcycle requires tremendous situational awareness, coordination, dexterity, and strength. If any of those are compromised, I ride another day.

Step 2: Motorcycle Inspection (5 minutes)—Things can happen when we ride our motorcycles which we may not be aware of while driving 70 miles per hour. For me, I want the peace of mind that comes with knowing that nothing happened on the last ride which could impact the next one. I also like the daily ritual of it all. Before I ride, I focus primarily on chains, tires, and brakes. This task is made easier because when I parked the motorcycle the previous day, I placed it on the center stand. For the daily inspection, I spin the rear tire while focusing intently on the chain and sprocket. I look for a any debris that may have lodged between the chain and sprocket. I also look to ensure there is no kink or damage to the chain or sprocket. (I do not check the tension of the chain because I check it on a regular basis, which I will document later). After I confirm I have a nice, smooth turn of the rear wheel, I clean the rotors and look closely at them. Like the chain, I am looking for damage or unusual wear. Finally, I check the tires and tire pressures to make they look good and have adequate pressure. 

I have Bridgestones BT46 on the motorcycle: Front—110/90-18M/C ; Rear—140/70-18M/C. I have left the rims in their OEM setup and use tubes. I run with 29 PSI in the front tire and 33 PSI in the rear. The ride is smooth and the handling crisp. Inspection and cleaning pictures follow. Note the staring area where the supplies are readily available:













Step 3: Protective Gear Inspection (10 minutes)—Before I shower, I “stage” my gear and also check the weather. I will ride in the rain and cold, but I make sure I am appropriately attired. I do avoid high winds, ice, and hail. 

We are exposed to the elements on a motorcycle when we ride. It is part of the allure. However, if we are cold, wet, heat exhausted, or in general miserable, mistakes can happen. I have found the right gear can make Mother Nature a little less cruel. 






I inspect my protective gear: helmet, ear plugs, base layers, shirts, airbag vest, motorcycle jacks, motorcycle jeans, gloves, socks, and motorcycle boots. I have leveraged advances in technology to improve safety and comfort. My helmet has a comm system which links to my iPhone. The jacket and jeans are made of abrasive resistant material and also have body armour which is lightweight, flexible, and incredibly effective despite what Brother Ryan from Fortnite may believe. They are also comfortable to wear. The airbag vest is perhaps the single greatest advancement in safety since the introduction of the helmet and motorcycle boots. Proper motorcycle gloves protect my hands from my natural inclination to reach out if I were to fall. I check everything as I am putting it on. Here is my sequence:

1. Ear Protection: I insert ear plugs and make sure they are snug and comfortable. I place the ear plug tether aground my neck.

2. Torso Comfort: I put my base layer or shirt on next. I make sure I do not dislodge the ear plugs. I check the pockets to make sure there is nothing in them which could stab me in the event of a fall. After I put on the base layer / shirt, I make sure I have range of motion. 

3. Leg Protection: I inspect my motorcycle jeans. I make sure I have not removed the armour in the hips and knees. I check the pockets to make sure there is nothing in them which could stab me in the event of a fall. I put on the motorcycle jeans and make sure they are loose enough that I can mount the motorcycle but tight enough to keep the protective armour in place.

4. Angle & Foot Protection: I inspect my motorcycle boots. I check and make sure the socks I have selected are Merino Wool and can protect my feet from blistering. I check my boots to make sure there are no tears and that the laces are in tact. I put both on and make sure they are tight but not biding.

5. Torso Protection: I put on my airbag vest. I check the lights to ensure that it has initialized successfully. I use the App on my iPhone to connect. I check the power level and firmware. The airbag vest will only work if it has power. If it passes the review, I ride. If I forgot to charge it, I connect the charger and ride another day. I put on my motorcycle jacket next. I make sure it is zipped properly and fits well. I also check range of motion.

6. Head Protection: I inspect my helmet and make sure all of the pads are secure and there is no debris inside the helmet. I turn the Comm Unit and make sure it initializes properly. I also connect to it with my phone to make sure it has been charged. Like the airbag vest, the Comm Unit depends on power.









Step 4: Ready to Ride Inspection (5 minutes): When I fire up the CB1100, I check the switches to make sure they are fully operational and the mirrors to make sure they provide good line of sight. I let the engine idle for 3-4 minutes to enable the oil to circulate. Then, I ride! 



I hope something in this Thread servers you well. If you have suggestions or corrections, please reply. As always, I remain a humble man. Let’s see if I have earned more respect than scorn with this lengthy thread. Enjoy your day and ride safely. David

1
Basic Maintenance: Turn-Signal Switch 

One of the many, many charms of a CB1100 centers on giving owners the ability to maintain the motorcycle without the help of a dealership or service shop. The inline 4 engine benefits from over 50 years of service. Other parts of a CB1100 are of equal quality. Honda considered each component meticulously using its formidable engineering, designing, testing, and manufacturing resources. I would like to believe they also considered that people most likely to buy a CB1100 may also want to work on the motorcycle.

At 61, I am fairly certain that I fall into the oldest slice on the membership pie chart.    I have spent a lifetime working on motorcycles. However, I am not even close to being the most skilled or knowledgeable wrencher on the Forum. You can read a thread from any of the Moderators or frequent posters and you will find greatness. My only claim to fame is enthusiasm. I love wrenching on a motorcycle to fix something which is broken and sharing that experience with other folks who like to be hands on.

I am not sure if the Forum needs detailed threads like the one I have posted below. I shared as much about my repair process as the actual outcome of fixing a sticking turn-signal switch. I hope the readers of this thread will let me know if I did something good or wasted everyone’s time!

I document everything I do for my CB1100Ex for reference. It is relatively easy for me to create threats like this one. Please advise. 

Cheers, David

~~~~~~~~~~

Honda Turn-Signal Switches need care and maintenance. When the Turn-Signal Switch works as designed, it is a wonderful switch. However, the design and exposure to the elements causes most of them to become sticky and eventually clumsy to actuate. That places motorcyclists at rick because it is tempting to either stop using the turn signal or become distracted by the effort it takes to turn the d**n turn-signal on and off. 

My turn signal has been gradually stiffening. What was at first an effortless push of my thumb has become a laborious task that takes 3-5 seconds and a few thumb clicks. This weekend, I fixed it. Here’s how I did it. 

Feel free to critique me unmercifully and point out any thing too over the top or maybe even absolutely wrong! I can take the teasing, but more importantly, hope to inspire some of you to stop taking your motorcycle to a dealership and purchase a few tools. After all, if I can do it, anyone can. I have outlined each step in the process I used. 

Step 1: Read the owner’s manual and review CB1100 Forum Posts to become knowledgeable: I purchased the official Honda Shop Manual when I bought my motorcycle. I also searched the Forum to see if this problem was pervasive. It is, and many posts have appeared. Some folks wanted a quick fix, others wanted to take a more comprehensive approach, and a few people were well intended but in my opinion made questionable suggestions. When you sort through it all, defer to credible, known sources and look for overlap with Honda best practices. I strongly encourage you to trust the Moderators and long-term CB1100 Owners on the Forum. They are much better at giving wise advise than Google, YouTube, AI, and the like.

Step 2: When you understand the scope of the tasks, tools, and effort to complete the maintenance tasks, select a place to work: Try as best you can to have enough space to walk around the entire motorcycle. Good lighting is a have to have, not a best effort. Here is where I posted up to work:



Step 3: Setup a workbench: With the knowledge of what I needed to remove the gunk impairing the switch, I setup a workbench. As you can tell, I had to improvise a bit by using a large storage box. 

Note that I set aside space for cleaners, tools, a place to organize parts I took off the motorcycle, and a ruggedized computer I could use to access the Internet. The ruggedized part is because I tend to get things dirty when I service a motorcycle. Grown adults could use a iPhone or iPad just as easily.



Step 4: Make sure that you can see what you will be working on: Because the turn signal has screws that are the same color as the switch housing and are tucked away, I opted to use a small floor light and a flashlight:



Step 5: Protect the motorcycle while repairs are underway: The tank on my CB1100 EX is a work of art. I have applied ceramic coating to it as well. The parts around the switch are also expensive. I opted to drape the motorcycle because it would be absolutely terrible if I damaged something because I dropped a tool or scratched something while removing or installing a part:



Step 6: Review instructions for the clearer and the the lubricate: This project requires an Electrical Contact Cleaner to clean the contacts used to actuate the horn, lights, and turn signals. It also requires Dielectric Grease to coat the contacts post cleaning so that they will be protected from water, debris, and corrosion. I like the aerosol contact cleaner because it is easy to direct the cleaner into tight places. I selected Dielectric Grease with an applicator tip to make it easier to place the dielectric grease into a tight spot.



https://a.co/d/19v0kEJ
https://a.co/d/4cI3qQq

Note that the Contact Cleaner despite the Citrix scent is harsh. It is designed to loosen / melt nastiness. Wear gloves while using it to protect your skin.

Step 7: Loosen but do not remove the clutch assembly: In order to gain clean access to the turn-switch housing, it is best to loosen but not remove the clutch handle assembly.Gently turn the set screws which hold the clutch assembly to the left a few turns. When you can slide the clutch assembly, do so, moving it to the center of the motorcycle so you can easily access the turn-signal switch.

Step 8: Remove and inspect the two set screens which secure the turn-signal switch: To remove the screen on the bottom of the turn-signal switch, I had to lay on my back and shine the light upward. The screw is made of a soft metal. I was particularly careful removing it. I opted to use a screwdriver bit and not an electric drill.



The “top” set screw is accessible from the front of the motorcycle.



I inspected both screws to make sure neither were stripped. It appears someone else has removed this switch before. The screws showed some signs of wear and tear, but they did not require replacement. I placed them on my workbench after I removed them. I placed all subsequent removed parts in organized groups on the workbench. Note that I used white paper for contrast to help me keep up with the bits and pieces

---

Step 9: Disable the switch piece by piece and clean: Taking pictures as I went, I disassembled the turn signal switch, piece by piece. I organized everything on the bench with related items next to one another. I sprayed the cleaner with great enthusiasm, using a Home Depot bucket to catch the overflow. I then wiped each piece with a lent free cloth. Finally, I let it dry for an hour before I applied the Dielectric Grease.











Step 10: Apply Dielectric Grease to the Contacts: Using the applicator and a small wooden stick intended for paint touch ups, I applied a new coat of Dielectric Grease to only the contacts and not the housing. The grease protects against corrosion and dir/debris from impacting the switch actuation. If I had applied the grease everywhere, it will gather dust and debris and force me to clean the switch far more frequently. Note that I cleaned the light and horn switch, too, while I had everything taken apart:







Step 11: Test the Switches Prior to Reassembly: Before I put everything back together, I tested the switches to make sure I did not dislodge a connection or damage the switch. Life is good when it works.



[media=mp4]https://i.imgur.com/d7vvYxA.mp4[/media]

Step 12: Reassemble the switch and install it: Using the pictures I took and reference material, I reassembled the switch and re-installed it. I tested everything to ensure that there would be no surprises when I fired up the motorcycle. 



https://i.imgur.com/tnqefxu.mp4

Step 13: Check RLETs to ensure they remain pristine: I never, ever want the RLET Police Square to issue a warrant for my arrest.



Step 14: Complete final inspection: I performed a walk-around to make sure everything was right on the motorcycle and nothing was different than when I started the turn-signal cleaning project. 



Step 15: Return tools to storage and clean workbench: I am infamous for losing tools if I do not make it a point to clean and store them immediately at the end of my projects. I have purchased more 10 MM sockets than anyone else on this planet!



Please let me know if I should create other threads for base maintenance tasks. Enjoy your week.

Everybody knows me, so not much to say 

I'm the owner of a 2014 CB1100, a 2024 Triumph Thruxton RS, and a 2021 Honda Trail 125. But when I die you're gonna have to bury me with my CB, and you better change the oil before you do because I'm still gonna be riding it. 

Currently organizing the upcoming 2025 CB1100 Rally in Kingsport TN....should I repost all that info over here? Say the word boss.  

Oh, and by the way, RDP if you're the new Admin you have an obligation to show up in August...jussayin

Thanks for checking out Version 2.0. Thanks to all 7,000 members for CB1100forum.com for the inspiration. David

Currently ride my 2017 CB1100EX, 2013 VFR1200F, and 1986 Magna 700. Previously I owned a 2012 F6B, 2007 ST1300, 1984 Magna V65, and 2003 Blackbird CBR1100XX....What can I say....even own a 2025 Civic SI and a Honda lawnmower!

My name is "Knurl"...Retro cafe' oil cap for the CB1100.

I have introduced this cool looking piece of machined retro bling! 

Now in stock and available to add to your CB1100 pride and joy.

Machined 6061 T6 aluminum gets rid of your plastic oil filler cap.
Very visible and trick looking "moon" spun retro with knurled edges. 
Show those Cafe' bike poseurs you were Cafe' from WAY back....

Fit is as stock. Installation is as easy as righty tighty / lefty loosey.

Finish is glorious bare a$$ shiny machined aluminum.

Re-use your "O" ring from the stock cap.

Price is a VERY reasonable $22.50 delivered to anywhere in the U.S. or Canadia.
Add $5.00 to the U.K.
Add $6.00 to anywhere else (Australia, Germany, Italy).

Paypal to:
ZRXman01@yahoo.com

Snail mail to 
Greg Couch
29 Bellevue St.
Rittman, Ohio 44270-1101

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(This post was last mo

https://motofomo.com/honda-cb1100-review...nda-cb1100

https://youtu.be/Y8XcJwu0vB0

“The Power of Dreams”

https://hondanews.eu/eu/lv/motorcycles/m...cb1100-ex2

1
Vehicle show 
The Royal Automobile Club of Queensland has an annual motofest. Amongst this year’s winners was this tasty 1954 MV Augusta 175.

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Here’s the blurb that went with it.

“Motorcycle
1954 MV Agusta 175 CSS (Gaven Dall'Osto)
Italian designers and engineers have been responsible for some of the world’s most memorable cars and motorcycles and few two-wheeled machines are as eye-catching as Gaven’s rare 1954 MV Agusta 175 CSS.

Featuring a chain-driven overhead cam four-stroke engine of a modest 175cc capacity, the MV Agusta boasted lightweight all-alloy construction and an iconic fuel tank shape which earned it the monicker of 'Disco Volante', Italian for flying disc or flying saucer.

Like Ferrari cars, MV Agusta motorcycles were originally conceived to support the Agusta family’s passion for motorcycle racing, so the brand is famed for its high-performance race-inspired bikes.
The MV Agusta 175 CSS was not only famous for its distinctive styling, but was also one of the first production motorcycles fitted with an ‘Earles Fork’ front suspension, designed to prevent the front-end diving under braking.

It was also the first production model to feature the same glossy red and bright silver paint scheme as the MV Agusta race bikes.

Only 500 MV Agusta 175 CSS were made worldwide and the bike was never exported to Australia, making the Disco Volante a rarity even at dedicated classic motorcycle events.
Honourable mentions in the motorcycle category include Garrin Angel’s 1925 Indian Scout and Malcolm Garfath’s 2018 The Black Douglas Stirling Countryman Delux.”

For Gone in 60 in particular, another winner was this 1968 Holden Monaro GTS.

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The article and photos can be found here.