Just bought a 2024 Honda CT125 or Trail 125, and wanted to share information on the Givi Monokey Mount Spacing. There is no diagram or illustration for the spacing of it anywhere, so I provided a drawing of what I measured.

I wanted to mount a Givi Top Case to the rack, but didn't want to drill additional holes, or use one of their thick interim mounting brackets. I used some Givi mount fittings, a 12" x 12" x 1/4" aluminum plate and a thin self-adhesive rubber sheet the same size, all from Amazon ($40, $23, and $11).

I measured the mount on my CB1100, and drew this layout. I drilled the two pin holes to 3/8" to allow fine tuneing, but the 2 holes for the locking catch were 1/4", and the screws for it were countersunk. The four 1/4"holes that I drilled to mount the plate were countersunk, and had large fender washers on the underside. The rubber sheet went on the underside of the plate, and protects the rack's painted surface.

The location of the plate holes allowed the box to be mounted sideways as normal, but I wanted to mount the box longtitudinally.

Double-click to save photo. https://imgur.com/a/qLa3UyU

Nice reference document complete with Part Numbers.

https://www.honda.co.uk/motorcycles/my-b...b_0418.pdf

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Has anyone using the 2017 SHOWA front forks replaced the springs in them? Do we know if the stock spring is a carryover from the '13-'14?

I'm a heavier rider and have Ikons to put on the rear, but am wondering if the front springs need replacing as well for my size.

I ask because there's a set of Race Tech springs on ebay in the spring rate I would get for a good price...new.

Any input would be appreciated.

Does anyone with a 2017 model have any suggestions for a replacement for the bad LED headlight on these bikes?  I tried scouring the internet a year ago and outside of spending north of $500, there didn't seem to be many options.  

If said rider gave up on the headlight, did you remedy the issue with auxiliary lighting?  Or just cry to the Honda gods and scream "why?".  

Thanks!

First thing is to locate and remove the two housing screws that hold the lens in.



Next pivot the lens housing up until you can easily remove it from the bucket.



Do not try and pull it straight out because there is a tab at the top that needs to be disengaged before removal.



Now you need to squeeze the plug to disengage from the bulb. Do not yank as you can break the plug.



Now the housing will be free from the bike and you can see the rubber boot to keep out the moisture (note the "TOP" on it).



Next remove the boot.



Next push down on the right side of the clip and push up to disengage it from the latch.



Now you can remove the bulb from the lens.



If your old bulb is good DO NOT TOUCH THE GLASS as this will put your finger oils on it and if the need arises that you need to reinstall it the life will be very short.

Installation is the reverse of removal. Just be careful when you remount the lens into the housing as the tab may fight you just a bit, and watch out for the harness as well so you don't pinch it when you close up.

First thing is to remove the allen head bolt on the bottom of the right side cover.



Then locate and remove the 3 screws that hold the intake snorkel to the air box and remove them. (I missed a pic of the top one, but that one is VERY easy to see.)

You will need to maneuver the wire harness out of the way to get to these two screws. It may seem tight, but it will move enough to get to the screws and get the cover out.





Then you can remove the cover and set it aside.



Here is the stock air filter.



And the K&N installed in its place.



The filters from the end.



Side by side.

This was my visit to the Corbin Seat Company on September 25, 2014.