speed sensor output

[Lord Popgun]

Here is the speed sensor output. https://youtu.be/JLJi-v2Ju5A

The signal rides on a ~10v level. Notice the trace is 10v from the scope center (scope 5v per cm)

Test setup: I disconnected the sensor connector from the harness and connected jumpers to the harness male pins. Then I used .028” safety wire inserted into the sensor female pins and clipped the jumpers to the safety wire. Now the speed sensor is connected to the bike again and I had a place to connect the o-scope leads (to the safety wires).

Scope: the probe was connected to the VSP+ wire. The probe ground was connected to the VSP- wire. Connecting the probe ground to chassis ground does not work. All you get is a sawtooth wave train that stays constant amplitude and frequency. Max has a theory on that.

Upon ignition turn on the trace goes from 0v to ~10v and stays there until I put the bike in gear (on the center stand). When it clunked into gear you can see a period pulses as it jerked the wheel I guess. Then I let the clutch out and the bike idles at 10MPH. You see the pulse train. Then ran the throttle up. Then took it out of gear and turned it off. You can see the pulse train is gone and the trace is at ~8v vice the 10 at start.

TLDR: started the bike, put it in gear and ran it up.
I forgot to publish it. Wait until 6:30pm. About 10-15 minutes and it should be good.

[Randy B]

Here is the speed sensor output. https://youtu.be/JLJi-v2Ju5A

The signal rides on a ~10v level. Notice the trace is 10v from the scope center (scope 5v per cm)

Test setup: I disconnected the sensor connector from the harness and connected jumpers to the harness male pins. Then I used .028” safety wire inserted into the sensor female pins and clipped the jumpers to the safety wire. Now the speed sensor is connected to the bike again and I had a place to connect the o-scope leads (to the safety wires).

Scope: the probe was connected to the VSP+ wire. The probe ground was connected to the VSP- wire. Connecting the probe ground to chassis ground does not work. All you get is a sawtooth wave train that stays constant amplitude and frequency. Max has a theory on that.

Upon ignition turn on the trace goes from 0v to ~10v and stays there until I put the bike in gear (on the center stand). When it clunked into gear you can see a period pulses as it jerked the wheel I guess. Then I let the clutch out and the bike idles at 10MPH. You see the pulse train. Then ran the throttle up. Then took it out of gear and turned it off. You can see the pulse train is gone and the trace is at ~8v vice the 10 at start.

TLDR: started the bike, put it in gear and ran it up.
I forgot to publish it. Wait until 6:30pm. About 10-15 minutes and it should be good.

You need to change the video from private, or only you can watch it.

[Lord Popgun]

I just checked and it says public and published. Try it again and let me know.

I posted here before I remembered I had to published it. Then had to a 15 minute wait for it. Sorry

[max]

Works fine downunder Lord Popgun, just wondering why you say it is a minus voltage, it shows on the top part of the scale, have you inverted the scope or is the trace centered on 2 div from center?

Thanks for explaining how the probe is connected, makes all the difference when trying to work out what the result is.

So now we know it is a digital sensor as opposed to Zirconxi's coil/magnet one for his ignition.

[pekingduck]

Just curious how you guys got on this topic, as I happen to be having problems with rear wheel speed sensors. And you're the guys I need to ask. I converted my 2017 EX from wire wheels to cast wheels from a 2014 DLX, and everything bolted up fine physically, but I was using a used 2014 rear speed sensor, and it is not reading at all.

What year speed sensor are you testing? And are you able to test them at all without a scope? Used to be able to test the 3-wire ones just passing a screwdriver over the end.

[Cormanus]

PD, Popgun's bike is a non-ABS 2013.

[pekingduck]

PD, Popgun's bike is a non-ABS 2013.

Thanks Cormanus.

[max]

PD if i understand it correctly you can measure the dc voltage across the sensor wires with the connector in place like lp did, as the wheel is slowly rotated to interact with the "tonewheel" as it's called you should be able to measure 8 volts dc which will vary with about one volt either way with every slot.
how fast your voltmeter reads is how fast (read slow) the wheel needs to be rotated from a slot to a ridge in the tone wheel.
If you had a speaker and a capacitor and connected those in series with the same wires you would hear a tone and the frequency would change with the speed of the wheel.

the bike needs to be switched on in both cases to supply dc power to the sensor and the gap between the sensor and the tonewheel is 0.4 mm. quite small and i can see the orientation of the sensor to line up with the gap beiing important as well since we're talking about a slot.

If nothing works you could take the sensor out and do your screwdriver test to see if the sensor is otherwise working.

[Lord Popgun]

Max, I had the leads reversed when I emailed you. I put them on probe to + for the video.

PD, The test setup is still installed. I’ll give Max’s test with a voltmeter a try and see what happens. I’ll try using a DVOM but I think using an analog meter will work better for that test. So I’ll try that too.

I’m not taking the sensor out for a screwdriver test, although I do have an of crankshaft position sensor from a chevy and it passes the screwdriver test

[PowerDubs_imp]

Popgun- would this work for the Dynojet power commander autotune box speed input sensor?

If so- it will allow to adjust fueling for each gear individually.

I just looked back at an old email from Dynojet and Dusty had replied-

"You will have to check if one of those lines is 0-5v and that it drops to zero."