Front suspension?

[pechorin75_imp]

Just an update for those who helped out and/or followed this thread. I went ahead and tore into the forks to see if I could resolve the issue. First took off the right side and measured the oil level, which was actually slightly lower than spec (I'm guessing because I lost a bit of oil removing the spring). I also measured the spring to make sure it was within spec (it was).

At that point I decided to go ahead and drain/replace the oil. I did that for both forks, being careful to get the level exactly the same for both. I then reinstalled, making sure that the tops of the forks were aligned equally with the top of the triple clamp. Put it all back together and took it for a ride, not really expecting a difference....

...but amazingly enough, it made a HUGE difference. The front suspension now feels the way I'd expect it to--MUCH more compliant over bumps; no longer "bouncy." I took it down the same road I'd ridden just before doing the work, and the difference was night and day. I'm sure that things could be improved further with aftermarket springs, etc., but for now I'm just happy to have the bike performing the way the factory intended.

Whether it was the oil change or simply having the forks completely out of the triple clamp that made the difference, I have no idea, but it worked. Thanks to all who offered advice.

[Ridem32_imp]

I would say the fork oil level. Glad it rides better ! the 14 deluxe has different amounts of fork oil in each leg! What brand and weight fork oil did you use ?

[pechorin75_imp]

I went with the stock Honda 10W oil.

[Pterodactyl_imp]

It seems there's binding in the triples, it's a very easy adjustment. I don't have my shop manual so we need someone to chime in here. You need to loosen the triple to relax the forks and get them back into alignment. If i remember correctly you also have to loosen the bolts on the wheel.

I have a shop manual, but it's over at my other garage, so can't refer to it right away. If you have a minute, would you mind explaining for the suspension illiterate (i.e., myself) the relationship between the binding you're talking about and the fork compression?

I have a shop manual, but it's over at my other garage, so can't refer to it right away. If you have a minute, would you mind explaining for the suspension illiterate (i.e., myself) the relationship between the binding you're talking about and the fork compression?
Sure, when the bike comes from the factory both fork tubes are in alignment through the upper and lower (brackets) triple trees. My guess is that when the bike was dropped against the wall one of the two fork tubes twisted therefore causing a binding. When this happens they work against themselves and would cause the problem your having. You just need to relax the front end ( loosen everything up )and with compression strokes like you just did will put the front end back into alignment.

Think you might have nailed it mate.

Cheers

[the Ferret]

Good deal Pechorin love a happy ending

[Ack-CB11_imp]

Glad things worked out good. I wish I went 10w, good move with stock internals.
Unfortunately stock is still very harsh. Springs and shocks smooth the ride a great deal more.

[bustin dailey_imp]

Little thread revival here...

So has anyone weighing over 200 pounds made any specific changes to either the springs, fluid level/weight, or rear shocks that has made the bike handle better for them?

I know the bike isn't right.. I've dropped it once in a parking lot, and that knocked the bars out of whack, so I have a feeling whenever I take the forks off to install my gaiters, I can drain the fluid and realign things and hopefully get the bike feeling a bit more right.

Would really like to change out the springs if I can while doing this, just because it would be easier.. I've sent off a couple of emails to try and get recommendations for my weight that won't break the bank, but any input from the forum would be much appreciated.

[IndianRider_imp]

nice job pechorin .. looking to swap out fork oil with different grades to experiment different damping rate without replacing springs .. the stock springs are great for me at 3 circles visible in front and second softest position in the rears

[chync_imp]

I weigh over 200 lbs and the solution was to get new shocks correctly sized for my weight.

I got fully adjustable Ohlins for the rear and just added adjustable Ohlins fork kits to the front. I have since become aware I really should have also replaced the front fork springs because I have had to preload them as far as they will go and are still just slightly under-sprung for sag.

I realize getting the Ohlins is overkill for normal street riding but I have been making performance upgrades on it for sport riding.

Just getting the shocks on the bike made an incredible difference over the stock but it wasn't until I get them correctly setup did I realize what was possible. It's an entirely different bike. But slight changes in settings seemed to make a big difference between bouncing and absorbing the bumps.

[TINK_imp]

Little thread revival here...

So has anyone weighing over 200 pounds made any specific changes to either the springs, fluid level/weight, or rear shocks that has made the bike handle better for them?

I know the bike isn't right.. I've dropped it once in a parking lot, and that knocked the bars out of whack, so I have a feeling whenever I take the forks off to install my gaiters, I can drain the fluid and realign things and hopefully get the bike feeling a bit more right.

Would really like to change out the springs if I can while doing this, just because it would be easier.. I've sent off a couple of emails to try and get recommendations for my weight that won't break the bank, but any input from the forum would be much appreciated.

See my slide show on fork spring replacement here > http://www.photosbytink.com/cb1100forksprings/