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2014 standard. I know nothing about suspension adjustment. Hoping y'all could suggest where I should be and how to get there. I presume it's set wherever stock is set considering I bought new. 5'11in 230lbs. Where should itbbe and how do I adjust? What I do know is a spanner wrench is needed for rear. Size?
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(09-20-2020, 11:43 AM)Whippa_imp Wrote: 2014 standard. I know nothing about suspension adjustment. Hoping y'all could suggest where I should be and how to get there. I presume it's set wherever stock is set considering I bought new. 5'11in 230lbs. Where should itbbe and how do I adjust? What I do know is a spanner wrench is needed for rear. Size?
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There is no hard and fast rule on adjusting preload, except the suspension should not bottom out on potholes or large dips, nor be so stiff that the ride is too harsh. It's all trial and error. The nice thing is that it's easy to change, and costs nothing beyond the tool.
US spec CB1100s have only a spring preload adjustment, in the front forks, and on the rear shocks. Both compensate for weight by compressing the spring a little more - maybe a range of about 20mm.
The front adjustment is made by using a large-blade screwdriver to turn the screw adjuster up or down. The rear uses a 5-position ramped collar at the spring's base that is rotated to adjust.
Most often, adjustments are made at the shocks. I'm about your size, ride solo, and have it in the middle of 5 positions. If you are heavier, carry a lot of luggage, or carry a passenger often, you may want to give a little more spring preload at the rear.
When you make adjustments, it's easiest to do it on the center stand. I've seen preload adjusted by bare hand, with a punch and hammer, and with Channel-locks - sometimes with a rag. The factory tool kit tool is about $20, but it only fits a certain diameter shock, fits poorly and will cause pain if it slips off.
It's better to get an adjustable ring spanner (also called adjustable hook wrench) for about the same price. The best is the Honda tool 07702-0020001 made in Japan. I've had mine for decades, it adjusts between 1"-3" diameters, and use it to adjust steering head bearings (and bicycle threaded stem nuts and bottom brackets).
However, they are over $130 now (way cheaper back then), so Bike Master (a Tucker-Rocky brand) sells a non-Japanese copy that works as well (07-072575). You can order them from any dealer, or online, about $25-30.
You can also get a smaller pivoting ring spanner that you can carry with you. They have a limited size range, so you can't adjust mono-shocks, and the tip may be too broad do steering bearings. It is about $15, and works way better than the toolkit tool. On eBay and Amazon under "adjustable hook spanner wrench".
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Wow. Thorough info. Thank you. Are the front fork slots for adjustments supposed to mirror one another when at same setting? Mine don't right now. One is pointing towards 1 o'clock and the other about 10 o'clock.
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(09-21-2020, 05:32 AM)Whippa_imp Wrote: Wow. Thorough info. Thank you. Are the front fork slots for adjustments supposed to mirror one another when at same setting? Mine don't right now. One is pointing towards 1 o'clock and the other about 10 o'clock.
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You'll want to match the heights using the rings on the adjuster. If you find the final adjustment you like, you can loosen the pinch bolts on the upper and lower clamp and grab the fork tube and twist it to match the lines. Just make sure you have it on the center stand when you do it, and loosen only one side at a time.
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A sample of one means nothing, but factory setting on mine, the slots are matched.
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(09-21-2020, 05:11 AM)pekingduck_imp Wrote: (09-20-2020, 11:43 AM)Whippa_imp Wrote: 2014 standard. I know nothing about suspension adjustment. Hoping y'all could suggest where I should be and how to get there. I presume it's set wherever stock is set considering I bought new. 5'11in 230lbs. Where should itbbe and how do I adjust? What I do know is a spanner wrench is needed for rear. Size?
Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
There is no hard and fast rule on adjusting preload, except the suspension should not bottom out on potholes or large dips, nor be so stiff that the ride is too harsh. It's all trial and error. The nice thing is that it's easy to change, and costs nothing beyond the tool.
US spec CB1100s have only a spring preload adjustment, in the front forks, and on the rear shocks. Both compensate for weight by compressing the spring a little more - maybe a range of about 20mm.
The front adjustment is made by using a large-blade screwdriver to turn the screw adjuster up or down. The rear uses a 5-position ramped collar at the spring's base that is rotated to adjust.
Most often, adjustments are made at the shocks. I'm about your size, ride solo, and have it in the middle of 5 positions. If you are heavier, carry a lot of luggage, or carry a passenger often, you may want to give a little more spring preload at the rear.
When you make adjustments, it's easiest to do it on the center stand. I've seen preload adjusted by bare hand, with a punch and hammer, and with Channel-locks - sometimes with a rag. The factory tool kit tool is about $20, but it only fits a certain diameter shock, fits poorly and will cause pain if it slips off.
It's better to get an adjustable ring spanner (also called adjustable hook wrench) for about the same price. The best is the Honda tool 07702-0020001 made in Japan. I've had mine for decades, it adjusts between 1"-3" diameters, and use it to adjust steering head bearings (and bicycle threaded stem nuts and bottom brackets).
However, they are over $130 now (way cheaper back then), so Bike Master (a Tucker-Rocky brand) sells a non-Japanese copy that works as well (07-072575). You can order them from any dealer, or online, about $25-30.
You can also get a smaller pivoting ring spanner that you can carry with you. They have a limited size range, so you can't adjust mono-shocks, and the tip may be too broad do steering bearings. It is about $15, and works way better than the toolkit tool. On eBay and Amazon under "adjustable hook spanner wrench".
Man, those look like dinosaur bones.
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[/quote]
Man, those look like dinosaur bones.
[/quote]
Discovered in 1936, in the New Mexico desert, they are believed to be from the upper jaws of Preloadus Adjustius which fed on skinned knuckles.
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Man, those look like dinosaur bones.
[/quote]
Discovered in 1936, in the New Mexico desert, they are believed to be from the upper jaws of Preloadus Adjustius which fed on skinned knuckles.
[/quote]
 - good one.
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Man, those look like dinosaur bones.
[/quote]
Discovered in 1936, in the New Mexico desert, they are believed to be from the upper jaws of Preloadus Adjustius which fed on skinned knuckles.
[/quote]
You are correct about the knuckles. I usually wear thin gloves when I use mine. I could change my old CB175 by hand, not bikes now, not anymore.
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(10-02-2020, 10:24 PM)michael1954_imp Wrote: Man, those look like dinosaur bones.
Discovered in 1936, in the New Mexico desert, they are believed to be from the upper jaws of Preloadus Adjustius which fed on skinned knuckles.
[/quote]
You are correct about the knuckles. I usually wear thin gloves when I use mine. I could change my old CB175 by hand, not bikes now, not anymore.
[/quote]
You are correct about the knuckles. I usually wear thin gloves when I use mine. I could change my old CB175 by hand, not bikes now, not anymore.
That is so true. Many new bikes (and not just Gold Wings) offer servo-driven adjustment now. Just press your preset and away you go, on-the-fly.
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