Drive chain replacement time, probably.

[Pauley]

I think you just need a chain rivet staking tool and you'd be good to go. No other special tools that I can think of. You might need a cheater bar for the nut on the driven sprocket.


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[Rocky_imp]

I'm as anal as they come when it comes to lube and chain maintenance.
26/27,000 miles is about average for me when it comes to changing chains and sprockets and I don't do much foul weather riding.
I'm a big fan of the D.I.D. X-ring chains.

[Randy B]

I think you just need a chain rivet staking tool and you'd be good to go. No other special tools that I can think of. You might need a cheater bar for the nut on the driven sprocket.


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I have impact stuff in my garage if need be.

[Rolls_imp]

Thanks, Pauley. I'll pick up the Stockton chain tool at Cycle Gear while it's still on sale for 40 clams. Happy to share it, too, when time comes.

Thanks, Rocky. Know I could've been a little bit better on chain care, but I was pretty good, considering the rain-free conditions around here. Your info eases my conscience. I probably didn't waste too much chain life, but I'll improve my maintenance a bit, especially taking time to lube after a good ride, when the chain is warm.

Thanks, Randy! Good to know, in case my breaker bar isn't up to the task.

Thanks!

[Lord Popgun]

When staking the master link, the manual says the diameter of the staked area is 5.50-5.80mm ( 0.217-0.228in) and if there are any cracks replace the master link, O-rings and plate.

[Rolls_imp]

Thanks, popgun! Haven't done a rivet link before, so much appreciated.

[Lord Popgun]

I have never done it either. And I forgot to put that the manual also says after you put in the master link and put the plate on it, "Measure the master link pin length projected from the plate. Standard length: 1.3-1.5mm (0.05-0.06in.) then stake the pins and measure as in my last post.

It also says to install the master link from the inside of the drive chain and install the plate with the identification number facing the outside.

And, as long as you have the chain off, you might as well check the chain slider and replace if necessary. It has wear marks, so you can just look at it.

[DAC]

Good luck!

[Rolls_imp]

Thanks, popgun!

Looked at several OEM parts suppliers and was just about to order, but I couldn't easily get any assurance that they had all parts in stock and they would arrive in less than a week, which was important to me (new tires and new brake pads also incoming this week).

Called sprocketcenter.com, down in SoCal and they've got JT steel sprockets and a D.I.D. X-ring chain on its way up to me for Friday arrival. Thanks to DAC for tip on those guys. He's used them [url=http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=3672&pid=53903#pid53903]before.

[flynrider]

Thanks, popgun!

Looked at several OEM parts suppliers and was just about to order, but I couldn't easily get any assurance that they had all parts in stock and they would arrive in less than a week, which was important to me (new tires and new brake pads also incoming this week).

Called sprocketcenter.com, down in SoCal and they've got JT steel sprockets and a D.I.D. X-ring chain on its way up to me for Friday arrival. Thanks to DAC for tip on those guys. He's used them [url=http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=3672&pid=53903#pid53903]before.

Cycle Gear still has that staking tool on sale for $40? I bought one about a year and a half ago for the same price

It's a good tool, but you have to work slowly and carefully. Especially if you are using the chain breaker to get the old chain off. Too much force, too quickly and the tool head will snap. Same advice goes for the staking tool. Slowly tighten it down, then pull it off and measure, repeat until the rivet head measures the proper diameter. And lastly, don't forget to lube and install the X-rings on the master link before staking.

Good choice on the JT sprockets and the D.I.D. X-ring chain. I've been using that combo for years on all my bikes with no complaints.