Checking Drive Chain Slack

[dbarkdoll_imp]

Good to know. Thanks everyone.

[2017EX_imp]

How do you check the wheel alignment Aussieflyer?

Townie, I use method B, but I've seen method A used and have wondered whether it is actually correct.

Taking Aussieflyer's and my approach may end up producing a roughly similar result. Using method B, I aim for 25-30 mm of slack as my seat-of-the-pants assessonometer tells me the bike's smoother when the chain is tighter. What would that slack then be if I used method A? Possibly about what Aussieflyer aims for. If I used method A and went for 25 mm of slack, would I end up with a chain that was too tight?

Looking at the illustration in the owners manual leads me to the view that Honda recommends method B. Certainly, if I am aiming for 25mm slack I'd be more inclined to use method B.

Not sure that helps really.

Cormanus, I use method B, as called for in the manual. The Motion Pro Chain Slack Tool mentioned in the video is a nice inexpensive tool, but will only work on the Standard. I bought one but the muffler on my EX was in the way, so I gave it to a friend that has a standard.

I use a dial caliper for alignment like you, Ferret and others, but the ends of the swing arm appear to be roughly ground off or parted off at the factory which can result in unequal readings. It is close, so I also use a Motion Pro alignment tool as a second check. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CjJCLACcKWs . It is not expensive, but easy to use. I also use a Motion Pro Sprocket Jammer to hold the adjusters tight against the ends of the swing arm, before tightening the axel nut. Another handy inexpensive tool. https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0642

[Cormanus]

Thanks 2017EX. Looks a handy tool. A screwdriver used carefully is useful as a sprocket jammer.

[2017EX_imp]

Thanks 2017EX. Looks a handy tool. A screwdriver used carefully is useful as a sprocket jammer.

Yeah, I have used a round shank screwdriver a time or two myself, sometimes I have even used a rag to jamb the chain/sprocket. The Motion Pro Sprocket Jammer is made of aluminum, and I like aluminum against steel better than steel on steel, because as you said, the screwdriver has to be used carefully.

[cocojamboo_imp]

I adjusted the drive chain slack to minimum 1'' (25mm) using method A  - firm push/pull on chain when taking measurement at mid point between rear axle and drive shaft. Then I removed rear shocks and checked chain slack variation when lifting the swingarm. At the tightest point there was no slack left.  I don't think the chain would become damaged because the rear wheel still rotated freely and I didn't feel any resistance when lifting the swingarm over the tightest point, but it definitely was dangerously close to being tight.  I'd recommend to use minimum 1.25'' (32mm) of slack instead when using method A.

[jimgl3_imp]

there's at least one other chain thread, but I'll say this again: as a rule, a smiling chain is a happy chain, but not on this bike. let mine smile and upon slightly aggressive acceleration, the chain skipped several teeth. tightened it a little and skipped less teeth. tightened it some more, almost there. tightened it a little more and wahlah, no more skipping. left it at that. the chain is far more snug than what I'm used to. no removing the rear shocks needed.

[cocojamboo_imp]

there's at least one other chain thread, but I'll say this again: as a rule, a smiling chain is a happy chain, but not on this bike. let mine smile and upon slightly aggressive acceleration, the chain skipped several teeth. tightened it a little and skipped less teeth. tightened it some more, almost there. tightened it a little more and wahlah, no more skipping. left it at that. the chain is far more snug than what I'm used to. no removing the rear shocks needed.

Thank you for the information.