05-10-2020, 01:08 AM
PD,
I just went out to the garage and did the speed sensor test using a DVOM and then an analog meter.
With the bike ignition OFF, upon connecting the meter across the sensor leads it read ~.5v This with meter on DC, 12v scale.
Ignition ON and meter reads around 8-10v. Seems to depend on where the wheel is. I guess depending on if the sensor is reading a hole or a bar in the reluctor (or tone ring).
When spinning the wheel you can see he voltage vary, as Max said, around 1v. It is easier to see on an analog meter as the needle moves a lot (depending on scale selected) and has no processing delay that a DVOM has.
During the test I kicked the wheel backwards as I can get it to go faster. But I got the same results making it go forward. Just couldn’t spin it as fast.
Dubs,
From what I’ve seen on the scope and the voltmeters I don’t seen this as 0-5v. Looks like they stay around 10v and the pulses vary around that. You can see that in the video.
As I’ve said, with a scope, with the probe on the sensor lead and the probe ungrounded or grounded to the chassis all I get is a constant sawtooth wave. Don’t know what it is. So I don’t know about the Dynojet. But I can go measure the voltage on the sensor pins to chassis ground with a meter just for giggles but it doesn’t look like this is a 5v circuit.
Well that was interesting. With the + meter lead on the VSP+ wire and the meter - on chassis ground (neg battery terminal) I got the same results as when reading across the sensor wires.
Ignition OFF and read ~ .5v and ignition ON read 9-10v and when spinning the wheel by foot
reading would vary 1 volt or so. NO 0 to 5v.
I would imagine you could go to, say, Digi-Key and buy a logic level changer and do some home brew circuitry. Csory is into that stuff. Maybe PM or email him. He hasn’t checked in since Feb.
I just went out to the garage and did the speed sensor test using a DVOM and then an analog meter.
With the bike ignition OFF, upon connecting the meter across the sensor leads it read ~.5v This with meter on DC, 12v scale.
Ignition ON and meter reads around 8-10v. Seems to depend on where the wheel is. I guess depending on if the sensor is reading a hole or a bar in the reluctor (or tone ring).
When spinning the wheel you can see he voltage vary, as Max said, around 1v. It is easier to see on an analog meter as the needle moves a lot (depending on scale selected) and has no processing delay that a DVOM has.
During the test I kicked the wheel backwards as I can get it to go faster. But I got the same results making it go forward. Just couldn’t spin it as fast.
(05-10-2020, 12:58 AM)PowerDubs_imp Wrote: Popgun- would this work for the Dynojet power commander autotune box speed input sensor?
If so- it will allow to adjust fueling for each gear individually.
I just looked back at an old email from Dynojet and Dusty had replied-
"You will have to check if one of those lines is 0-5v and that it drops to zero."
Dubs,
From what I’ve seen on the scope and the voltmeters I don’t seen this as 0-5v. Looks like they stay around 10v and the pulses vary around that. You can see that in the video.
As I’ve said, with a scope, with the probe on the sensor lead and the probe ungrounded or grounded to the chassis all I get is a constant sawtooth wave. Don’t know what it is. So I don’t know about the Dynojet. But I can go measure the voltage on the sensor pins to chassis ground with a meter just for giggles but it doesn’t look like this is a 5v circuit.
Well that was interesting. With the + meter lead on the VSP+ wire and the meter - on chassis ground (neg battery terminal) I got the same results as when reading across the sensor wires.
Ignition OFF and read ~ .5v and ignition ON read 9-10v and when spinning the wheel by foot
reading would vary 1 volt or so. NO 0 to 5v.I would imagine you could go to, say, Digi-Key and buy a logic level changer and do some home brew circuitry. Csory is into that stuff. Maybe PM or email him. He hasn’t checked in since Feb.