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Engine Guard Install Question?
#11
The OEM ones are real nice. The bottom clamp fits the frame very well. Does not look like an after thought. I personally would not put highway pegs on, just think that would look rediculous.
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#12
Hi:

Let me resucitate this old thread to ask a question.

I have got the honda engine guards, and before I install them:

Do I need to put something to protect the frame, so original paint is not damaged by the engine guard, or is should be mounted directly, metal-to-metal?

My concern is to make some paint damage that could start some rusting.

Thanks!
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#13
I don't have the guards, but I can't see any harm in packing the clamp lightly with rubber.
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#14
When I mounted engine guards, there were 2 pieces of foil in the package, which I put on the frame, where the guards were directly mounted to protect the painting from being damaged. No problems since then. You also can do so.

Wisedrum
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#15
Or 2-3 layers of a tape ?
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#16
I have these OEM chrome guards on my '13 CB11... for 3 seasons...and when standing in thick gravel in 1st gear, I unexpectedly released clutch lever, bike stalled and I felt to L sideROFL...thanks to these guards, only 1/2 of clutch lever broke ($30)...nothing else...continued home without problem...never regretted buying them...good quality, good look & needy!

pb
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#17
SW Motech guards come with black nylon nylon protectors that wrap around the frame under the clamps. I dont know if any of the other brands include them. Quite a while back I bought a 6" wide X 12' long roll of Trimbright "Bodyguard" clear self adhesive ( has peel off no stick backing ) Mylar at the auto parts store, thinking of doing a chip guard strip on the rocker panels on my car. Decided against it, but have used the stuff for all sorts of protective applications ever since. It is thick and durable enough to use to line the engine guard clamps, or wrap around the frame for under the clamps, plus it is clear. Similar to the clear tank protective film others have mentioned, but probably thicker. Have a windshield with mounts that clamp to fork tubes, or handle bars? A wrap of this stuff around the handle bar or fork tube first, will prevent marring, so if whatever is clamped on is later removed there will be no marks left behind. It is a cut to application size product, and easy to work with. My roll has lasted a long time through many applications, and just happened to be what I had on hand. I imagine the this stuff or something similar is available in a smaller quantity with a little research.
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#18
I bought online some 3m protective poliurthane clear tape (3M 8671HS).

I will let you know how it works.
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#19
(11-26-2017, 07:09 PM)jtopiso_imp Wrote: I bought online some 3m protective poliurthane clear tape (3M 8671HS).

I will let you know how it works.

Finally I have decided to mount the engine guards directly without any foil or rubber protection. Paint on both the guards and the frame seem strong enough (I don't know if it is "kephos" or "powder coated", but looks very strong). Also, those who know the engineering behind a bolted joint will tell you that it's important for the bolt to be the most elastic part of the bolted assembly. If you clamp a flexible layer with a stiff bolt, sooner or later you will lose the preload, as there is no marging in the bolt to accomodate for the length change in the clamped assembly (rubber wears off/yields...). And a loose joint will cause fretting, thus corrosion and rust.

By the way: OEM engine guards in black look great. Like they belong there from the original design. Material, coating, welds... look great, and the "venting" holes requiered for the welding process are also positioned so they work as draining holes, so rain water won't cause rust from the inside.
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#20
Crikey! That bike is clean!
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