A while ago I was asking about black OEM turn signals and somebody posted a discount parts source for OEM Honda parts in the U.K. that had a schematics the turn signals. I found the thread but didn’t see the post with the parts supplier in the post, now the app has disappeared from my phone and I can’t find the company anywhere. I’ve tried to recover the app on my phone but no luck.

I recently purchased a [url=https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/signal-dynamics-brake-hold-module]Back Off module by Signal Dynamics that also includes their Brake Hold feature. Brake Hold will Keep the brake light lit the until it receives a signal from the speed sensor indicating positive acceleration.

Has anyone ever tapped the speed sensor wire for something like this? Where is the best place to tap it? I'm thinking I'll need to get into the instrument cluster to tap it near the tach. I don't want to cut into any factory harnesses.

As I was doing a lot of riding at the 8K mile mark, I only changed oil, oil filter and lubed chain (8,667 miles), before a 700 mile trip to central Arizona.

Another chain lube at 9,360 miles and 10,078 miles.

So, this morning, after putting up the stars and stripes, since it was only 93F in the garage, I figured it was a good time to do an inspection:

Front brake pads: Both pairs close to new
Rear bakes: Close to new

Spark plugs: Last check was of #4 outside right, so this time I checked #1 and #2 on the left side. Both were a good color and gap checked at 0.032" (spec 0.031 to 0.035). A bit slow getting the inside one out with a 9/16 (14 mm) deep socket, but a fine tooth ratchet with a 1" extension worked.

Front brake fluid height still above site glass and close to clear.
Rear brake fluid height above mid-level and close to clear. Since I removed the seat to check, the seat latch was lubed.

Clutch fluid looked darker, as others have reported. I evacuated the master cylinder, other than a few drops in the cupped port, then added DOT 4 from a new container. Need to find out what size drain tube needed, before bleeding the slave cylinder. Probably 3/16? By replacing the master cylinder fluid now, the slave cylinder should run clear sooner, when it is bled.

Chain slider looks good.

Air filter previously checked and cleaned (moth vacuumed out of intake)

It has only been 1400 miles since the last oil and filter change, but the Castrol 10W-40 color and site glass height is the same as when it was changed.

I had planned on changing only the rear tire, but now looks that both front and rear will be replaced (probably Bridgestone BT54), around the 12,000 mile mark. Most of my riding is longer distances, so brakes and tires are lasting longer than normally expected.

When I fired her up, she went to only 1200 RPM (93 F ambient), as I checked the spark plug reinstall and clutch operation.

Gave the fuel tank and side covers their umpteenth coat of wax.

Since tomorrow is forecast at only 105 F and Friday is forecast for 109 F, I think I'll get in 100-150 miles on Thu.

I recently picked up a 2017 Ural Gear Up and thought I’d share some thoughts with my CB friends.

First, they do seem overly expensive at first for what you get, but I have no regrets at all—there’s nothing like them on the market and more importantly, i challenge anyone to find anything that will be more fun going slow. And if you don’t want attention or to chat with strangers, don’t ride a Ural...

It has only 42 HP, and a 4-speed gearbox so its not fast but the engine is surprisingly smooth and has a heavy flywheel, so it pulls cleanly at any rpm (except when blipping the throttle, it stumbles but you learn to work around that). It is rpm limited to around 70 mph, but likes to cruise at 65, if there’s one wish, I wish it had a 5th gear so I could cruise faster on the highway. 75 would do....just 10 more mph and you could really use it to get places in a normal pace.

The handling is a blast, again you’re not going fast but it’s so unique. I didn’t have much trouble adapting to it, once you get the hang of it, you don’t have to think much. The bars require heavy inputs (way more than you would think), so if you ever see a Ural taking a highway on ramp, the rider is actually pushing quite hard on the handlebars, especially turning left since you can turn faster. After my first weekend riding a few hundred miles, my forearms were slightly sore if that gives you any idea. Once I improved my technique, I learned how to reduce some strain (not that it’s a bad thing), like rolling on and off the throttle smoothly so you don’t have to correct the line through the bars.

Turning right is the most fun. The chair comes up pretty gradually, I never used any counter weight, just slow down enough before a right turn and you can throttle through. On a sidecar, using the throttle helps it turn right since the drive wheel is left of the axis. I can “fly the car” for short periods of time. It’s a blast and even easier with a passenger.

As for reliability, Ural has come a long way. I would only look at 2014+ Urals, thats when they made some major updates like disc brakes all around (ha!) and fuel injection. The bike is super easy to service. I’ve tried 3 different transmission fluids, it has a separate case than the engine and settled on Redline Heavyweight Shockproof, it does help cushion the shifts. I’ve not ridden a big Harley but from what I read, the gearboxes may feel similar. Quite the opposite of the CB in terms of feel, but you use a heel shifter to upshift, so a firm clunk is normal. It’s part of the charm...and you will find a few false neutrals here and there if you don’t shift firmly enough. At least there’s only 2 additonal neutrals since you only have 4 gears!

Really, it’s quite a different machine than a motorcycle because of the versatility. The sidecar is deceptively huge and it has a trunk. I can run to the store with it and buy a ton of stuff, it really can be a car replacement. Also, I know this might be stupid of me, but because of the slow speed and the additional stability of the sidecar, if I’m taking a short trip, I don’t feel the need to have to fully gear up (jeans, boots) and can just throw my upper body gear on. Again, I know not the smartest thing so don’t flame me for it.

If you’re looking for something different and unique, I would highly recommend checking a Ural out. I got the Gear Up, mainly for resale value purposes and because if I move, the 2wd might come in handy if I move somewhere where the weather gets nasty, but a 1wd Ural CT handles better and is cheaper, the side car is lower to the ground and from what I’ve read it requries less bar input to steer. There’s a great forum for Urals, http://www.sovietsteeds.com and the community is pretty helpful like ours.

Overall, I’m very happy with the Ural and it makes a nice compliment to the motorcycle collection!

Sometimes ....or maybe always, I have no idea what some are looking for. My bike is still bone stock (except for rlets..which the installation still haunts me). To me every ride is “motorcycling” at its best. I can’t take it out without having to watch for the police. Air cooled inline fours still rock!

I can’t believe how much of a hassle it is to find a basic set of handlebars. I’ve been on RENTHALS site a bunch and all I see are aluminum handlebars and the same with ANSWER brand. I can find cheap $20 bars but want quality. If I wasn’t dealing with the handlebar weights I could go for a nice set of anodized bars but that’s not the case. Where can I get a good brand of low rise chrome handlebars? I’ve done the search function but didn’t find anything there. I’ve been to several shops and all they have is aluminum bars.

... rear shock length, with the rear wheel off the floor.

I'm doing a friend a favour. He's writing a piece in a magazine, Practical Sportsbike, in the uk, about geometry and suspension.

I've changed the swing arm on my bike and it has effected the geometry a bit. I've given him all the measurements and a few pics, for the original Swing arm and the Over one, but I can't measure the distance between the top and bottom rear shock mount, with the std. shock and swing arm.

Can anyone pop there bike on the centre stand and put a tape measure across it?

I'll take pics of the article and put it up on here, if my scrappy notes make it to press... and even if not ;-)

Thanks
Kev

I'm heading up to Alaska to fly fish for salmon for the rest of the summer. I've enjoyed riding around this spring. The bike and I are just starting to feel real good together. My 10 month old lab puppy and I will be taking off with the truck camper. We will be catching salmon untill mid-Oct. I'll check in on the forum from the Thorne Bay public library. Enjoy the rest of the summer guys.

Hi all, just for a bit of fun ( not wanting to start anything ranty here....) when would you consider a new engine to be run in? Is the expression even relevant anymore? I dunno? I know the first service is about 600 miles but already I'm sure I can feel my new RS spinning up a little more freely/easily and it ticks over ever so sweetly at idle. I have 360 miles on it so far which is nothing (I realise that). I would expect modern engines to be better built than years ago or perhaps I should say built with finer tolerances and better materials than years ago. I am of an age when mechanical sympathy carries a lot of weight so I will not be thrashing it no matter. I know some say you can/should thrash them from new to get best power etc etc but I just couldn't do that. I would put say 3000 miles forward as a benchmark for bearings/bores/cams/gears etc to be bedded in. Just wondered what you think? Kind regards john.

Has anyone gotten their fenders powder coated? If so, were you able to do the tail light housing?

How did the black match the bike? Or better yet, how does it compare to the Honda Japan fenders that can be ordered through Samurider for a cool $500 plus shipping?

If anyone has any experience with this, let me know. I have a local powder coater that will be much less then purchasing the new fenders, so would like to go this route. This all started with seeing Rotor’s Canadian Checkerboard CB that has black fenders, looks awesome so I’m going to copy it.