With a Center Stand do you even need a front stand?

I made a wooden block I prop under the headers on my FZ which holds the front end off the ground for front wheel removal, but I haven't tried it on the CB yet.
 
I bought a small jack from Harbor Freight and it fits under all my bikes............with bike on center stand place jack under front of engine and you can jack it onto the rear wheel which usually gives enough room to remove front wheel.
 
cbfan_imp said:
I bought a small jack from Harbor Freight and it fits under all my bikes............with bike on center stand place jack under front of engine and you can jack it onto the rear wheel which usually gives enough room to remove front wheel.

cbfan...have you tried it on the CB yet? I have one of those too I used to use on the Bonneville, and its been sitting under the workbench since I sold the Triumph. Didn't think about using that.
 
Thread starter
if you were to place some weight or strap the rear wheel down, would there be enough room to lift front tire for removal forks? thanks
 
PJV_imp said:
if you were to place some weight or strap the rear wheel down, would there be enough room to lift front tire for removal forks? thanks
I would think so. You would need 10 1/2" of clearance between the ground and the bottom of your fork leg to remove it. Sitting on the tire I measure nearly 12".
 
I just used a basic scissor jack under the bike about 10 minutes ago; worked very nicely. I placed a small block of wood under the two fins that come down in front of the oil drain bolt (they're plenty strong enough), and used that as the jack point. I'd probably make up something a bit more secure if I were to remove the front wheel, but for cleaning it, this makes it much, much easier.
 
Sure helps. You'd need the kind with the pin to take off the forks, there's another thread about all that somewhere. But there're workarounds, sling it from the rafters, use a jack, etc. None are as stable or efficient or safe as the right front stand but a good one will set you back a little.
A decent fork lift stand will run you about $75, head lift stand about $110 -- not really that much if you ask me, and worth it in terms of safety, IMO.
 
I haven't had to use it on the CB1100 yet, but I've got a rolling floor jack that works great on the CB750. I just use a block of wood to spread the load across the headers. I did the fork seals on the 750 a couple of weekends ago and one of the forks took quite a bit of yanking before it came apart. The bike didn't budge.

Looks like I could use the same method on the CB11 by putting the block about where the drain plug is on the oil pan.
 
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Harbor Freight scissors jack, 12" 2x4, small piece of 3/4" plywood. Put the plywood under the rear wheel, 2x4 between jack and frame cross member, jack until rear tire is just resting on the plywood. Makes for a very nice and stable way to get the front wheel off the ground. The rear wheel on the plywood keeps the bike from swiveling on the center stand when both wheels are off the ground.
 
Hmm, seeing that, the term "jerry rig" comes to mind. Since you said it's stable, I won't doubt you, but using wood to hold up a 550 lbs bike is really not a good idea, IMO.
 
AzBob_imp said:
Hmm, seeing that, the term "jerry rig" comes to mind. Since you said it's stable, I won't doubt you, but using wood to hold up a 550 lbs bike is really not a good idea, IMO.

If both wheels were off the bike I'd be worried, but with it being on the center stand and rear wheel it's no big deal. He's just using his set up to tilt the bike and hold it in that position. Doubt theres 50 pounds of pressure there. i have tilted the bike onto it's back wheel with one hand while looking for the valve stem on the front wheel.
 
AzBob_imp said:
Hmm, seeing that, the term "jerry rig" comes to mind. Since you said it's stable, I won't doubt you, but using wood to hold up a 550 lbs bike is really not a good idea, IMO.
Don't knock it till you try it. I'm just uncomfortable using the bottom of the engine as a jack point. Much rather use the frame. If I was going to pull the front wheel, I'd add some 4x4 blocks under the lower frame members but for checking the steering head, this works great.
 
Seems good to me. After I did something similar to this (instead using the engine as a lift point), I thought that might not be the best idea. I'm sure it's fine, but who knows. It certainly wasn't designed for that load.

Regardless of lifting point, a scissor jack is the perfect tool for this, allowing slow & highly-controllable lift.

Lastly, you mentioned checking the steering head.....is that checking for play, I assume? Never thought of doing that before.
 
Jim21680_imp said:
Seems good to me. After I did something similar to this (instead using the engine as a lift point), I thought that might not be the best idea. I'm sure it's fine, but who knows. It certainly wasn't designed for that load.

Regardless of lifting point, a scissor jack is the perfect tool for this, allowing slow & highly-controllable lift.

Lastly, you mentioned checking the steering head.....is that checking for play, I assume? Never thought of doing that before.
Yes, that and freedom of movement lock to lock. That's part of the 600 mile and future checks.
 
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