Tools you'll need

the Ferret

Road warrior
Thread starter
Front Fork preload.....large flat blade screwdriver

Rear Shock preload.....shock spanner wrench

Front wheel :
axle pinch bolts...... 6 mm allen
r/s axle nut ..... 22 mm
l/s axle head..... 17 mm allen
Wooden mallet
Small phillips screwdriver or rod to fit hole

Rear wheel :
r/s axle nut..... 32 mm. ( 1 1/4" will fit)
l/s axle nut .... 27 mm
Chain adjuster bolts......8 mm

front brake calipers..... 12 mm

Clutch and brake lever clamps..... 8 mm

Handlebar clamps bolts....6 mm allen

Headlight bucket..... 6 mm allen

front fork triple tree clamps upper ..... 12 mm
Lower ..... 14 mm

Side covers .... 5 mm allen (in tool kit)

Battery ..... medium phillips or 10 mm socket

Oil drain bolt ... 17 mm socket

Motor mount bolts ...the ones I could get to were.... 17 mm and.... 14 mm

If I think of anything else, I'll add it later
Whenever possible use 6 point instead of 12 point tools.

Pick up a tube of permatech "Anti- seize" to use on most of your pinch type bolts

And a tube of multi purpose lithium grease or a tub of wheel bearing grease for greasing axles

And a tub of citrus cleaner for your hands. If you are going to work on the bike yourself, you're going to get a little greasy

At Harbor Freight you can pick up a bundle of 50 shop rags for like $7. If one gets really greasy, don't bother washing it, just throw it away.

A roll of paper towels comes in real handy.

I also keep a box of latex gloves on the tool box which helps some, but you are still going to get greasy lol
 
Awesome thanks!!! I was actually thinking about going to get some tools this weekend so I won't have to borrow again in the future ha!
 
Thread starter
For anyone needing to buy tools I would suggest getting a set of metric box wrenches 8 mm to 19 mm, a set of metric 6 point sockets same sizes, 5 and 6 mm allen sockets, a swivel ratchet, a 3" and a 6" socket extensions, a medium phillips screwdrive, medium and large flat blade screwdrivers and then individually buy your specialty sockets and/ or box end wrenches
22mm, 27mm, 32 mm ( or 1 1/4") and the 17 mm allen socket and a torque wrench ( if you are not confident on tightening fasteners)

I buy most of my stuff at Sears, or Harbor Freight but some specialty stuff I order from mcmaster-Carr.

McMaster-Carr
 
I have one suggestion to add to ferret's list. If you are buying tools, consider JIS screw drivers instead of Phillips for working on the CB11 or any Japanese products. They work better and will not slip. These screw drivers are hard to find at the usual tool stores but are available on-line. You can do a search for JIS screw drivers for sources. I ordered mine here. http://www.rjrcooltools.com/shop_item_detail.cfm?subcat_ID=138
I ordered #8971 which gives you two different lengths of the #2 driver. I find that I rarely need a size other than #2.
 
Thread starter
Well learn something new everyday....jis stands for Japanese Industrial Standard and apparently Japanes screws are not really phillips head but JIS head. Interesting. Apparently if you grind .020 to .030 off the end of a phillips it will do a better job on Japanese screw by going deeper into the slot.

Thanks for the education ridesalot!
 
I had heard that someplace, but didn't know if was really true. I looked at the rjr site and am going to order a set of these today!
 
Thread starter
Not a lot of screws on our bikes. I don't even use a phillips on a battery (I use a socket instead) but I would recommend having a phillips or JIS handy for removing caps on mater cylinders etc.
 
A great thread and thanks to the ferret for giving us this.

One thing I am a stickler on is the proverbial torque wrench. You really need to include two of them in your list. You will need one that goes from from 0 to 250 inch pounds and another to take you up to at least 80 foot pounds. That's a nice looking 32mm above, but what's missing?

You just cannot do the job properly without knowing you are torqued correctly.
 
Thread starter
meowguy_imp said:
A great thread and thanks to the ferret for giving us this.

One thing I am a stickler on is the proverbial torque wrench. You really need to include two of them in your list. You will need one that goes from from 0 to 250 inch pounds and another to take you up to at least 80 foot pounds. That's a nice looking 32mm above, but what's missing?

You just cannot do the job properly without knowing you are torqued correctly.
Geez on nearly every motorcycle board there is a big argumentative thread about the merits and demerits of using torque wrenches. most everyone will agree that when rebuilding a motor, a torque wrench is required. There is never an agreement on the value of torquing dry threads vs wet threads, or whether the value assigned by the engineers is even reasonable in many cases. Oil drain bolts, oil filters, and rear axle nuts come to mind. Torque some oil filters to spec and you may never get them off again. Many seemingly experienced wrenches will regal horror stories of stripped nuts and bolts when bolts are torqued to spec with a torque wrench.

My advice is use a torque wrench if it makes you more comfortable and use feel it that makes you more comfortable. To each his own. I own two like yoou advise. Sometimes I use em, some times I don't. Haven't stripped anything and nothing has fallen off so Im comfortable both ways.
 
Just installed SW-Motech crash bars. My shop manual hasn't arrived yet,I don't want to over torque. Does anyone have the values for the front engine mount and the 2 frame mount fasteners that indirectly tie the engine to the frame with a bracket. I'll have to learn how to post pictures...I know that would help. Anyway Twisted Throttle shipped them in 2 days..Good company,and great Forum!!! Thanks
 
jmc1100_imp said:
Just installed SW-Motech crash bars. My shop manual hasn't arrived yet,I don't want to over torque. Does anyone have the values for the front engine mount and the 2 frame mount fasteners that indirectly tie the engine to the frame with a bracket. I'll have to learn how to post pictures...I know that would help. Anyway Twisted Throttle shipped them in 2 days..Good company,and great Forum!!! Thanks
Check out this Thread. The torque spec pages are posted

torque specs?
 
Thanks Popgun,I'll wait for the manual, I want to see a picture of the fastener location and its value..The right side bolts were not as tight as on the left side.I torqued to 30ft lbs only for now..Don't want to damage anything..
 
Thanks for listing the tool selection, very handy especially for making my take along tool roll. For me, a lift is essential kit for home bike maintenance and Harbor Freight's lift is hard to beat for the price. Be sure to get the HF front wheel chock also as the one supplied for the lift is not the best.

a402ed7e73f1bb47e52b64090be583aa.jpg

The ferret_imp said:
meowguy_imp said:
A great thread and thanks to the ferret for giving us this.

One thing I am a stickler on is the proverbial torque wrench. You really need to include two of them in your list. You will need one that goes from from 0 to 250 inch pounds and another to take you up to at least 80 foot pounds. That's a nice looking 32mm above, but what's missing?

You just cannot do the job properly without knowing you are torqued correctly.
Geez on nearly every motorcycle board there is a big argumentative thread about the merits and demerits of using torque wrenches. most everyone will agree that when rebuilding a motor, a torque wrench is required. There is never an agreement on the value of torquing dry threads vs wet threads, or whether the value assigned by the engineers is even reasonable in many cases. Oil drain bolts, oil filters, and rear axle nuts come to mind. Torque some oil filters to spec and you may never get them off again. Many seemingly experienced wrenches will regal horror stories of stripped nuts and bolts when bolts are torqued to spec with a torque wrench.

My advice is use a torque wrench if it makes you more comfortable and use feel it that makes you more comfortable. To each his own. I own two like yoou advise. Sometimes I use em, some times I don't. Haven't stripped anything and nothing has fallen off so Im comfortable both ways.
Geez on nearly every motorcycle board there is a big argumentative thread about the merits and demerits of using torque wrenches. most everyone will agree that when rebuilding a motor, a torque wrench is required. There is never an agreement on the value of torquing dry threads vs wet threads, or whether the value assigned by the engineers is even reasonable in many cases. Oil drain bolts, oil filters, and rear axle nuts come to mind. Torque some oil filters to spec and you may never get them off again. Many seemingly experienced wrenches will regal horror stories of stripped nuts and bolts when bolts are torqued to spec with a torque wrench.

My advice is use a torque wrench if it makes you more comfortable and use feel it that makes you more comfortable. To each his own. I own two like yoou advise. Sometimes I use em, some times I don't. Haven't stripped anything and nothing has fallen off so Im comfortable both ways.
I second that. An improperly calibrated torque wrench can cause some real problems and torquing oil filters to the manufacturer's specs is a sure way of not being able to remove it next oil change. I've always hand tightened oil filters and have never had one leak. If you torque the oil drain plug be very careful that your wrench is calibrated and always use a new sealing washer. Over-tightened drain plugs can mean a cracked oil pan as aluminum is not as forgiving as steel. Please don't ask how I know this.
 
redbirds_imp said:
Thanks for listing the tool selection, very handy especially for making my take along tool roll. For me, a lift is essential kit for home bike maintenance and Harbor Freight's lift is hard to beat for the price. Be sure to get the HF front wheel chock also as the one supplied for the lift is not the best.

a402ed7e73f1bb47e52b64090be583aa.jpg

The ferret_imp said:
meowguy_imp said:
A great thread and thanks to the ferret for giving us this.

One thing I am a stickler on is the proverbial torque wrench. You really need to include two of them in your list. You will need one that goes from from 0 to 250 inch pounds and another to take you up to at least 80 foot pounds. That's a nice looking 32mm above, but what's missing?

You just cannot do the job properly without knowing you are torqued correctly.
Geez on nearly every motorcycle board there is a big argumentative thread about the merits and demerits of using torque wrenches. most everyone will agree that when rebuilding a motor, a torque wrench is required. There is never an agreement on the value of torquing dry threads vs wet threads, or whether the value assigned by the engineers is even reasonable in many cases. Oil drain bolts, oil filters, and rear axle nuts come to mind. Torque some oil filters to spec and you may never get them off again. Many seemingly experienced wrenches will regal horror stories of stripped nuts and bolts when bolts are torqued to spec with a torque wrench.

My advice is use a torque wrench if it makes you more comfortable and use feel it that makes you more comfortable. To each his own. I own two like yoou advise. Sometimes I use em, some times I don't. Haven't stripped anything and nothing has fallen off so Im comfortable both ways.
Geez on nearly every motorcycle board there is a big argumentative thread about the merits and demerits of using torque wrenches. most everyone will agree that when rebuilding a motor, a torque wrench is required. There is never an agreement on the value of torquing dry threads vs wet threads, or whether the value assigned by the engineers is even reasonable in many cases. Oil drain bolts, oil filters, and rear axle nuts come to mind. Torque some oil filters to spec and you may never get them off again. Many seemingly experienced wrenches will regal horror stories of stripped nuts and bolts when bolts are torqued to spec with a torque wrench.

My advice is use a torque wrench if it makes you more comfortable and use feel it that makes you more comfortable. To each his own. I own two like yoou advise. Sometimes I use em, some times I don't. Haven't stripped anything and nothing has fallen off so Im comfortable both ways.
I second that. An improperly calibrated torque wrench can cause some real problems and torquing oil filters to the manufacturer's specs is a sure way of not being able to remove it next oil change. I've always hand tightened oil filters and have never had one leak. If you torque the oil drain plug be very careful that your wrench is calibrated and always use a new sealing washer. Over-tightened drain plugs can mean a cracked oil pan as aluminum is not as forgiving as steel. Please don't ask how I know this.
If this were an episode of Get Smart someone would have to ask: "How do you know this?"
 
Cormanus_imp said:
redbirds_imp said:
Thanks for listing the tool selection, very handy especially for making my take along tool roll. For me, a lift is essential kit for home bike maintenance and Harbor Freight's lift is hard to beat for the price. Be sure to get the HF front wheel chock also as the one supplied for the lift is not the best.

a402ed7e73f1bb47e52b64090be583aa.jpg

The ferret_imp said:
meowguy_imp said:
A great thread and thanks to the ferret for giving us this.

One thing I am a stickler on is the proverbial torque wrench. You really need to include two of them in your list. You will need one that goes from from 0 to 250 inch pounds and another to take you up to at least 80 foot pounds. That's a nice looking 32mm above, but what's missing?

You just cannot do the job properly without knowing you are torqued correctly.
Geez on nearly every motorcycle board there is a big argumentative thread about the merits and demerits of using torque wrenches. most everyone will agree that when rebuilding a motor, a torque wrench is required. There is never an agreement on the value of torquing dry threads vs wet threads, or whether the value assigned by the engineers is even reasonable in many cases. Oil drain bolts, oil filters, and rear axle nuts come to mind. Torque some oil filters to spec and you may never get them off again. Many seemingly experienced wrenches will regal horror stories of stripped nuts and bolts when bolts are torqued to spec with a torque wrench.

My advice is use a torque wrench if it makes you more comfortable and use feel it that makes you more comfortable. To each his own. I own two like yoou advise. Sometimes I use em, some times I don't. Haven't stripped anything and nothing has fallen off so Im comfortable both ways.
Geez on nearly every motorcycle board there is a big argumentative thread about the merits and demerits of using torque wrenches. most everyone will agree that when rebuilding a motor, a torque wrench is required. There is never an agreement on the value of torquing dry threads vs wet threads, or whether the value assigned by the engineers is even reasonable in many cases. Oil drain bolts, oil filters, and rear axle nuts come to mind. Torque some oil filters to spec and you may never get them off again. Many seemingly experienced wrenches will regal horror stories of stripped nuts and bolts when bolts are torqued to spec with a torque wrench.

My advice is use a torque wrench if it makes you more comfortable and use feel it that makes you more comfortable. To each his own. I own two like yoou advise. Sometimes I use em, some times I don't. Haven't stripped anything and nothing has fallen off so Im comfortable both ways.
I second that. An improperly calibrated torque wrench can cause some real problems and torquing oil filters to the manufacturer's specs is a sure way of not being able to remove it next oil change. I've always hand tightened oil filters and have never had one leak. If you torque the oil drain plug be very careful that your wrench is calibrated and always use a new sealing washer. Over-tightened drain plugs can mean a cracked oil pan as aluminum is not as forgiving as steel. Please don't ask how I know this.
If this were an episode of Get Smart someone would have to ask: "How do you know this?"
Mate, tooo good:clap:
 
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