Some valve adjustment tips and tricks.

max_imp said:
Two good video's with very detailed info about valve checks and adjustments.
Valve clearance check;

And valve adjustment;

Hope this helps.
Hmm, interesting.

= = =

Hope the characters are still/will remain all healthy.
 
After all this, I am well resolved to simply run this motor until it locks up. If and when it ever locks up, I'll tear into it, but not before.
 
jimgl3_imp said:
After all this, I am well resolved to simply run this motor until it locks up. If and when it ever locks up, I'll tear into it, but not before.
lol - better put a clause in the Will to get someone to run the beast until the motor locks up.
 
I wouldn't take the risk, would you not at least measure/have them measured? I decided to check the valves on my other bike with 31K miles on it and the service book showed two previous dealer valve services. I believe the first but totally disbelieve the second. 6 were out of spec (not just at the extremes of spec) and one inlet valve was totally closed up. If I had left it a new head would of been the order of the day and it would of been very expensive.
 
max_imp said:
From the Honda service manual;



Made mine from 1 mm. copper, worked fine; find the slot inside the tensioner, wind clockwise till the stop and return until the wider part of the tool lines up with the four outer slots and push the tool in those slots to lock the unit.
What Honda service manual? I have both Common Service Manual an 2013-2014 CB1100 Service Manual, but can't find your cool diagram.
 
Must be an old diagram which is why i posted the dimensions, do you like it?
They now have a flash new tool which you could order, it's a lot bigger to work with and may fall out of the tensioner for that reason, up to you but i liked this way so i thought i would add it to Wyliejoe's awesome collection and you only need it when you remove the camshafts as discussed.:)
 
Thanks for feedback Mr Max ... I made the tool from your pic. Ok Mr LakeWylieJoe .... I read your guidelines, printed out the Service Manual pages and reordered them per your list, ordered and received all the parts, and prepped the garage. Just re-reviewing service manual pages and your notes, then will start doing my 2014 CB1100DX this week :)
 
Thread starter
Holler at me if you have questions along the way. (704) 315-9329.

bflint_imp said:
Thanks for feedback Mr Max ... I made the tool from your pic. Ok Mr LakeWylieJoe .... I read your guidelines, printed out the Service Manual pages and reordered them per your list, ordered and received all the parts, and prepped the garage. Just re-reviewing service manual pages and your notes, then will start doing my 2014 CB1100DX this week :)
 
LakeWylieJoe_imp said:
Holler at me if you have questions along the way. (704) 315-9329.

bflint_imp said:
Thanks for feedback Mr Max ... I made the tool from your pic. Ok Mr LakeWylieJoe .... I read your guidelines, printed out the Service Manual pages and reordered them per your list, ordered and received all the parts, and prepped the garage. Just re-reviewing service manual pages and your notes, then will start doing my 2014 CB1100DX this week :)
Thanks. Have to work for $$ today and Wed, so think will start Thur :)
 
Hey Mr LakeWylieJoe, I might be messaging you soon after I receive one size shim that I had not pre-ordered. I created working document based on your original list and tips/tricks. Have been further annotating this as I go along. The hardest part so far has been using the micrometer calipers to measure the old and new shims; calipers are very sensitive (1/10,000 boggles my mind and fingers) and its a bit of an art form I think ... in the end had to clean metal slide areas with alcohol ... measured old and new shims 6 times to before I was sure of measurement ... part of learning curve. All the forum knowledge has made this a fairly worry free effort for me ... thanks to everyone. However, I have lost some sleep about reinstalling the cams/chain assy ... think I might be ok but am going to read the Honda manuals about engine reassembly to understand a bit more about the crank and cam shafts/gears relationship.
 
New MLA-(shims or buckets) you do not measure, thickness is indicated, old ones may have a minimum wear unless scuffed, abused or so.

Micrometer is very easy to use, 0.01 mm is readable with ease..learn and practice measuring the new shim without reading its thickness and then compare mic/your reading with the shim as indicated, should be the same up to 0.01 mm. The 0.001 mm measurement/reading is "more sensitive".
Follow manufacture instruction.

Generally speaking, if one learns mic, feeler gauge and calculation, your valve measurement and adjustment is done once only within 720* crankshaft or 360* cams rotation.
For a 4 cyl/16 valve engine, 8 valves can be measured/adjusted when any given cyl is at its TDC.

Here it is a very easy graphic tutorial:

Wisc-Online Learning Objects | WisTech Open.

Yes you can do it if you ride a CB.
Good luck to you :thumbsup:

***************

I calculate the thickness of a new tappet so that the valve clearance comes within the specific value (mm).
I use this easy formula:

T = thickness of removed tappet
A = measured valve clearance (feeler gauge measurement)
N = thickness of a new tappet

INTAKE/0.15 +- 0.03: N = T + (A - 0.15)
EXHAUST/0.28 +- 0.03: N = T + (A - 0.28)

I select a new tappet with thickness as close as possible to the calculated value.

Hope I made no mistake, if so, someone to correct me, please.
 
Houtman_imp said:
A highly accurate digital micrometer is probably easier to use but good ones are not cheap .
For first 6 readings I borrowed by neighbors Mitutoyo Digital Caliper mic (this is a high end mic). Still depending on how much thumb pressure you apply you can get different readings. Same neighbor had a manual Starrett (another high end mic) c-clamp style mic which clicks when correct clamping pressure is reached. Used Starrett for 7th reading. OMG, I love that Starrett. It is so much faster and accurate :)
 
You shouldn't need to be measuring shims, especially with this shim under bucket design, just read the values off them and that will always be good enough for the calculations.
 
Tev62_imp said:
You shouldn't need to be measuring shims, especially with this shim under bucket design, just read the values off them and that will always be good enough for the calculations.
Hey Mr Tev62 ... you would think. But I did measure old and new. New ones (even Honda) are close but not milspec. I noticed trend on my prev valve measurements; intake get looser, exhaust get tighter. With that knowledge I was able to use 1/1000 inch measurements determine which side of the honda middle spec to shoot for. This observation plus my exact measurements made me change two shims from sizes that you might have picked.
 
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