Honda dealer shop gouged my frame

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Gone in 60_imp said:
Sad to see this. And it's the reason why I avoid the dealer unless absolutely necessary. I had no choice but to take my last bike to a dealer twice during its life, both times for recall work, and both times it came back with missing screws and small trim parts, but luckily no scratches.

Sounds like you didn't have much of a choice in your situation, and if you can't get resolution and just want to fix it, I had a scratch on my frame when I bought my CB - owner said a piece of truck tire slapped it, and I had to respray a section to make myself happy.

I do a lot of detailing and refinishing, and found that Eastwood Chassis Paint in gloss black is a great match for the CB frame, and lays down smoothly. You can mask carefully, sand with 400 grit to smooth out the scratches, and give it a shot.

Cool, thanks for the help! Yeah when my issue started it was the 5th of July. No one was gonna touch my engine besides a dealer so.. yay!


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So two days after I noticed the gouges on my frame, my bike died in traffic and it was a fuel relay. So I’ve had it back for a week now, DIED AGAIN. Don’t you think of a fuel relay died on a five year old Honda.. there would be a deeper issue that would be looked at!?!? Gonna take it back tomorrow.. I know a relay can die but I have a feeling it’s from something they did wrong while repairing the engine. Thoughts??


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I think I would be tempted to try calling Honda U.S., and tell them you want a sit down face to face with the area rep. for Honda that covers the area that shop is in. If the rep will meet with you, you can show him/her the paint scrapes on your frame, and discuss your most recent relay related problem. They may say no to a meeting, but it would not hurt to ask.
 
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2017EX_imp said:
I think I would be tempted to try calling Honda U.S., and tell them you want a sit down face to face with the area rep. for Honda that covers the area that shop is in. If the rep will meet with you, you can show him/her the paint scrapes on your frame, and discuss your most recent relay related problem. They may say no to a meeting, but it would not hurt to ask.

I will attempt that if they can’t figure out why exactly it failed. Just replacing is not the answer. And yes, they just got a new area rep last month, but I’ll try.


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Quintastic it would be very helpful to know in both cases if the engine stopped when in neutral or whilst it was in gear, there is a reason why there is a difference and i will explain later.
Cheers.
 
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max_imp said:
Quintastic it would be very helpful to know in both cases if the engine stopped when in neutral or whilst it was in gear, there is a reason why there is a difference and i will explain later.
Cheers.

The first time, I was driving and I’m pretty sure I didn’t go into neutral. Just normal shifting. This time I pulled the bike out to go somewhere and it wouldn’t start. There’s no noise when it cycles through after turning the key to on


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I don't know how you are fixed for money, but if it were me, I'd trade the bike in for a new one. I think you'd be much happier.
 
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postoak_imp said:
I don't know how you are fixed for money, but if it were me, I'd trade the bike in for a new one. I think you'd be much happier.

If there were any other modern bikes I liked.. I would


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Thanks Quintastic, Flynrider pointed out something interesting, normally when the red "engine stop switch" on the right handlebars is off whilst switching the ignition key on the meters sweep because their internal processor in the meter cluster is stepping through the startup procedure independent of the electronic control module on the bike.
However the pump does not prime ( the sound you cannot hear at the moment ) and the orange " check engine light" stays off, this is important!

If the red e.stop switch is functioning correctly and is in the normal ON ( run ) position, the orange c.e.light lights up for the amount of time the fuel pump primes and dims again.
This indicates that the 12v. is supplied TO the e.c.m. and the fuel pump relay.

The next thing that happens is the fuel pump relay is commanded ON for 2 seconds to pressurize the fuel system by the e.c.m., it then switches the fuel pump relay off and waits for the engine to start and meter x amount of fuel through the injectors before it switches the fuel pump on and off again depending on how much fuel the e.c.m. "thinks" it has metered out and repeats this to keep the engine supplied with sufficient fuel pressure.

So if in your case the pump does not run check if the orange c.e.light is on and next listen if the relay in the fuse-box under the seat ( the rear one ) clicks on and off when the ihnition key is switched on, you may be able to hear/feel it.
eecd28df14e2963cf658ea86455f856b.jpg


As long as the green neutral light is lit the sidestand switch is not used for safety, the engine ignores it's position until the gearbox is engaged and the green neutral light is off.

If the orange light remains off it means the 12v supply to the fuel relay is not present.

Causes for this are;
1; red engine cutoff switch, ( some members have experienced this ).
2; bank angle sensor or;
3; engine cutoff relay; in that order.

Hope that helps to find out which part is causing the fuel pump to remain silent, the fuel cutoff relay is capable of switching 25 Amps and is used in a lot of vehicles as a standard relay, the fuel pump uses slightly more that 3 Amps so normally it should have a long life expectancy.
 
Thread starter
max_imp said:
Thanks Quintastic, Flynrider pointed out something interesting, normally when the red "engine stop switch" on the right handlebars is off whilst switching the ignition key on the meters sweep because their internal processor in the meter cluster is stepping through the startup procedure independent of the electronic control module on the bike.
However the pump does not prime ( the sound you cannot hear at the moment ) and the orange " check engine light" stays off, this is important!

If the red e.stop switch is functioning correctly and is in the normal ON ( run ) position, the orange c.e.light lights up for the amount of time the fuel pump primes and dims again.
This indicates that the 12v. is supplied TO the e.c.m. and the fuel pump relay.

The next thing that happens is the fuel pump relay is commanded ON for 2 seconds to pressurize the fuel system by the e.c.m., it then switches the fuel pump relay off and waits for the engine to start and meter x amount of fuel through the injectors before it switches the fuel pump on and off again depending on how much fuel the e.c.m. "thinks" it has metered out and repeats this to keep the engine supplied with sufficient fuel pressure.

So if in your case the pump does not run check if the orange c.e.light is on and next listen if the relay in the fuse-box under the seat ( the rear one ) clicks on and off when the ihnition key is switched on, you may be able to hear/feel it.
eecd28df14e2963cf658ea86455f856b.jpg


As long as the green neutral light is lit the sidestand switch is not used for safety, the engine ignores it's position until the gearbox is engaged and the green neutral light is off.

If the orange light remains off it means the 12v supply to the fuel relay is not present.

Causes for this are;
1; red engine cutoff switch, ( some members have experienced this ).
2; bank angle sensor or;
3; engine cutoff relay; in that order.

Hope that helps to find out which part is causing the fuel pump to remain silent, the fuel cutoff relay is capable of switching 25 Amps and is used in a lot of vehicles as a standard relay, the fuel pump uses slightly more that 3 Amps so normally it should have a long life expectancy.

Very good info. Thanks so much for typing all that out. Last time to test it the shop took one of the two relays and put it in the spot of the failed one and it started right up. They had a lot of stuff apart while rebuilding my engine so... yeah I will definitely show them what you said.


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