First Oil Change

[Bokobob_imp]

Next week I'll do my first oil change on my 14 CB1100. Should I use synthetic oil yet, or wait until second oil change??? (it will have just over 600 miles on it,)

Thank you,

Bob
Age 79

 

[the Ferret]

Bob, Bob, BOB .. Here just a short time and trying to start an oil war.. Tsk tsk tsk shame on you.

Strong opinions on both sides of this subject and plenty of past threads on it if you use the search engine.

My recommendation: Use what you feel comfortable with.

 

[redbirds_imp]

Bob, use any oil you want as long as it meets the specs Honda lists in the owners manual. I use Shell Rotella T6 because it meets the specs and it's usually on sale at Wal Mart or Tractor supply.

 

[Bokobob_imp]

Thanks for the feedback..I did do a search on postings containing the word "oil" in title...didn't find anything relevant in the first hundred or so hits. I'll keep looking.

Regards,
Bob

 

[Lord Popgun]

My usual reaction to oil threads is " OH BOY, an oil thread!" And I'd put a popcorn smiley if we had one.

If you are looking for a definitive answer to synthetic vs. non-synthetic, well, you aren't going to get it. In fact, if this wasn't a courteous board, flame wars would start with name calling. So, just remember, ______ is the best oil to use!

 

[LongRanger_imp]

I'm one who doesn't veer from the book. No need for the anxiety.

 

[Bokobob_imp]

Answered my own question by going to WalMart and checking many brands, both dino and synthetic...Many/most of both synthetic and dino were indicated to be "resource conserving" which the owner's manual says is a no-no. The only conventional 10W30 oil I saw that was not "resource conserving" was that for high mileage vehicles. Went to Honda bike dealer and bought 4 quarts of Honda Bike oil for $5.57 a quart...End of problem..(They give me a 10% discount on all parts that I buy.)..

I will change it in a week or so...right now it is still not within a hundred miles of 600.

Kind regards,
Bob

 

[the Ferret]

There are 2 threads in the " How to" forum on doing your own 600 mile service. One just says How to Do Your Own 600 mile serbice, the other is an addendum covering the 2014 DLX model.

Shout if you need help

 

[Bokobob_imp]

Thank you ferret.
Bob

 

[Rocky_imp]

If you have to lay the bike up for 4-5 winter months like we do up here, I would stick with dino oil.
I started using Amsoil synthetic in my CB900F, but later realized that I wasn't putting enough miles on it come time for the fall lay-up for winter.
I don't like leaving used oil in the engine for 4-5-6 months and it was being wasteful changing out synthetic with so few miles on it. I went back to dino oil.
But if you're able to ride all year then synthetic is a good choice, but you can't go wrong with by sticking with dino oil from Honda or any good brand name.
I'm using Motul 10W30 in my CB1100.

 

[Toddman_imp]

Bob, What you WILL run into is trying to get that blasted factory first oil filter off. It's pretty snug.

 

[LongRanger_imp]

Last time I went to WalMart to pick up a quart of 20W50, there was none to be found. They no longer carry it. That's progress, I guess.

 

[MikeOxbig_imp]

I asked my tech the same question on switching to synthetic (at the first oil change, 600 miles) and he said that should be fine, but he also mentioned he personally would make the switch after 3K to 4K miles. So I followed his recommendation.

 

[mattmcuomo@yahoo.com]

I did mine recently, just used Honda 10/30. Price was comparable to others. I did have trouble getting factory filter off too! Had to tap it loose with hammer and chisel!

Sent from my C6725 using Tapatalk

 

[redbirds_imp]

Strange, the oil filter on my 2013 came away easily at the first oil change. Lucky I guess.

 

[flynrider]

Answered my own question by going to WalMart and checking many brands, both dino and synthetic...Many/most of both synthetic and dino were indicated to be "resource conserving" which the owner's manual says is a no-no. The only conventional 10W30 oil I saw that was not "resource conserving" was that for high mileage vehicles. Went to Honda bike dealer and bought 4 quarts of Honda Bike oil for $5.57 a quart...End of problem..(They give me a 10% discount on all parts that I buy.)..

I will change it in a week or so...right now it is still not within a hundred miles of 600.

Kind regards,
Bob

Hey Bob,

The spec you're looking for is JASO-MA or MA2. That's the one that deals specifically with motorcycles equipped with wet clutches. Most motorcycle specific oils meet the spec and some non-motorcycle specific oils (like some grades of Rotella) also meet the spec.

Looking for the "energy conserving" note on the API spec circle used to work, but the latest API specs allow for friction modifiers without necessarily having to use that label. The safest bet is just to go with something that uses the correct JASO spec.

 

[jerrycon_imp]

Ditto on the oil filter. Must have been put on by Godzilla himself there in [url=http://world.honda.com/group/production/sites/kumamoto/index.html]Kumamoto.

 

[Rocky_imp]

Ditto on the oil filter. Must have been put on by Godzilla himself there in [url=http://world.honda.com/group/production/sites/kumamoto/index.html]Kumamoto.

Same here. Mine was so tight I didn't think I could ever break it loose, but it eventually broke free.

 

[Bokobob_imp]

I'll give a report on my bike's filter removal difficulty in a week or so.

Grace + Peace,
Bob

 

[Bokobob_imp]

Well, the potential difficulty in loosening the filter piqued my interest so I did loosen it just to see if I could. I used a special filter vise-grip type tool and when I got it tightened "just right" it came loose by giving it a very hard twist...I tightened it back up by hand and in just 100 more miles I'll be at 600 miles and will change the oil and filter. I bought the tool at Harbor Freight some time ago for about eight dollars...It is a ViseGrip knock off made in China.