rboe
Road warrior
YOu still need some lube for the chain - sprocket interface.
Chain lube
- Thread starter OldF7Guy_imp
- Start date
GoldOxide_imp
Road warrior
rboe
Road warrior
This Grasshopper was aware of the Scott's Oiler, now I know of a few more!
Automatic Motorcycle Chain Oilers
If I'm ever in the position where I just might put on enough mileage to make it worth while I now have choices.
of course I'll never remember this.
Automatic Motorcycle Chain Oilers
If I'm ever in the position where I just might put on enough mileage to make it worth while I now have choices.
of course I'll never remember this.
GoldOxide_imp
Road warrior
Yep, the Scottoiler system and a few other similar ones I considered. However, I didn't want to rely on electronics, power, wires and all that jazz. A gravity plunger is maintenance free and only lubes when the bike is moving over road bumps. The rate is configurable by the rider with a turn of a valve. Since I dislike chains, this solved my issue.
GO, do you clean the chain periodically or does it just get grungier every ride?
GoldOxide_imp
Road warrior
Since adding the Tutoro unit, I would say I wipe down the chain twice a year. I don't really have to, but I do and it takes only about a minute. That is, while on center stand I soak the chain with WD-40 for as long as I have time for. Take an old cotton t-shirt (or whatever) and wipe off the grime by grabbing the chain and turning the rear wheel. The oiler will do the rest during the ride.Cormanus_imp said:
If I do not clean it, the bits of "grunge" (if any) fling off and from time-to-time hit the rim. That is how I know. However, the bits are much less than some chain spray-on solutions (e.g. chain wax, Motul chain lube, etc.) I have used in the past. The grunge build-up in my case is significantly less than using Motul, and etc. The build-up on the sprockets is also less. I wipe the sprocket teeth area maybe every 12 to 18 months.
Probably the most important aspect for me was I found during cold weather riding when there was salt powder on the road, the chain wax (and other products) would pick the salt up and cause the chain to severely rust (when subjected to water/mist/condensation) to the point where affected o-rings could prematurely wear and fail.
Since using the oiler, this has no longer been an issue. No more browning chains, but no greasy black chains either. For me, it worked out better than expected.
A bonus is the option to hide the reservoir under the seat on some bikes.
Mmm, for a guy who dislikes maintenance, it looks like a good idea. Thanks for the information.
GoldOxide_imp
Road warrior
Good luck with whatever your ultimate solution you adopt Cormanus. I certainly cannot associate first-hand the challenges of dust accumulation on the chain as you may routinely experience, however, I suspect our south-west U.S. Forum members can align better to those members in Australia.Cormanus_imp said:
It would be interesting to learn from off-road ADV riders how they manage their chains. Do they simply replace them? (and sprockets too?) I have not done that research.
- - -
You know I prefer shaft drive on my ride, but that is unlikely on the CB and most other future mid-size class bikes. The Tutoro appears to be a convenient compromise.
the Ferret
Road warrior
GO how about a close up pic of the unit mounted on your bike?
GoldOxide_imp
Road warrior
I elected to mount externally, however, the alternative was in my under seat "storage" cubicle near the battery. But my cubicle was full of stuff and at the time I was unsure how well the Tutoro would perform, so I mounted it externally thinking I could easily remove it if I didn't like it. It has been in place for four years.The ferret_imp said:
And the close-up ...
The drip tube basically runs down, then along the swingarm, and then lays on the lower hemisphere of the rear sprocket just above the passing chain links.
the Ferret
Road warrior
and what determines the correct rate of drip?
GoldOxide_imp
Road warrior
There is a small knob on the lower side that ranges between completely closed to completely open. I would guess there is about 4 to 5 rotations of range. The user's guide provides suggestions of drip rate. Using a magnet, I hold the plunger weight in the open position and count the drip rate per minute to the rear sprocket. I think in my case I have it set to two drips per minute, or about 2.5 turns (if I recall correctly) of the valve. The magnet is then removed. Your mileage will vary with your personal need, the type of lubricant you choose, the season, and the lubricant weight. I use a 10W40 weight. Tutoro has their recommendations.The ferret_imp said:
In any case, all season my chain and sprocket teeth are "wet", but not slinging. I don't seem to experience the mucky build-up on the chain compared to when using say Motul Chain Lube.
GoldOxide_imp
Road warrior
I should add, the drip rate is when the plunger is completely open. When riding, the plunger opens when the bike experiences vertical motion - like a bump in the road - and then closes. At the end of the day, the ultimate judgement comes based on how lubricated your chain appears/feels. That is pretty easy to do.
peterbaron
Road warrior
GoldOxide_imp said:
I like this wise and neat set up you chose. Is this reservoir bolted directly to the plastic chain guard?
I love doing my own maintenance, but I may copy your solution due to set up above, unless your copy right applies?
GoldOxide_imp
Road warrior
Hey PB: I have commented on this in the past on the Forum. I just didn't supply images ... I don't think? We are all here at the Forum to help make life easier (and sometimes cheaper) for everybody. If you want to wish your chain maintenance away (or reduced significantly), something like this could be it.peterbaron_imp said:
This apparatus is attached with black tie-wraps to the bike frame. You can see in the image, just below the yellow arrow. If you have room, you should be able to hide it in the storage cubicle under the seat.
peterbaron
Road warrior
aha, now can see, no room in storage = like your outside idea better 
Does the tube get bounced around by the movement of the chain? Is there a risk it could be damaged? Or is that part of the deal?
peterbaron
Road warrior
If I go ahead with this project - love manual maintenance, I will incorporate the container into plastic chain guard with reenforcement and mini tube, we'll see..
the Ferret
Road warrior
cool keep us up to date on the project pbpeterbaron_imp said:
GoldOxide_imp
Road warrior
Good question Cormanus.Cormanus_imp said:
In my case, no.
The line is affixed to the bottom of the swingarm, as shown in the close-up image
using tie-wraps through tie-wrap stick-on pads. Enough slack is left in the tube line to allow motion in the swingarm without straining the tube.
In terms of the endpoint "nozzle", it is attached to the tube line that is reinforced internally with an aluminum wire to allow for alignment and tension against the sprocket. The oil drips out of the end of the plastic nozzle.
The plastic nozzle rests against the sprocket, lower hemisphere, just above the teeth. In the image you can see the black paint worn off the sprocket edge in the image. A ring around the sprocket sort-of-speak. Oil is immediately flung into the chain as you ride.
There is an optional fitment (or included in the next package above "Standard"?) that allows a second nozzle to be placed on the other side of the rear sprocket. I don't have that option, but would have considered it if not enough oil was being distributed on the chain. In my case, this appears to not be an issue.
I have not adjusted the plastic nozzle since installation. Looks to be holding up well. The only side-effect, as mentioned, is the black paint wears off on the area of the sprocket where the plastic nozzle touches.
