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Mounting the Honda Rear Rack
#1
The engineer responsible for designing the OEM Honda rear rack for the CB1100 is an evil, evil man. Installing that thing caused me to utter more expletives than one would hear in a Quentin Tarantino film with a script enhanced by David Mamet.

At one point I was using my groin to balance the rack, my left foot to twist in a bolt, and my daughter to apologize to the neighbors for my 100 decibel stream of invective.

But it's on now, and it looks pretty good. I have gone deep into a bottle of Sailor Jerry rum this evening, and things are looking up. Thank you for listening.
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#2
Thats funny LOL

A user posted instructions on the UK board that make it fairly easy. I don't know if they made it to this board though.
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#3
Shoulda had a look at this:

Post: #6RE: Rear chrome rack from Honda
1. Remove seat, cover the fuel tank and tail-light bracket and then pull a pair of sports socks over the indicators. The socks protect the chrome indicator housings from Allen keys and the various bolts as they are removed and replaced. The indicators themselves can be gently pulled or pushed to achieve clearance as required.
2. Loosen, to finger tight, the four retaining bolts on the grip assembly.
3. Remove the front bolts (only) completely. The grip assembly (the silver bits running along the frame) should stay close to "in position". Place the rack roughly in position over the grip assembly and tail light area.
4. Place the front of the rack so that you can slide the (longer) front bolts through the rack, spacers and grip assembly through to the nuts that are fixed to the frame. Tighten to finger tight. The rack is now held in position by the front bolts and now sits atop the (covered) tail light assembly at the rear, or if you have the front bolts just tight enough, sitting above the assembly.
5. Remove the rear bolts. You will need to hold the nuts to stop them falling as they are not attached to the frame. Either that or let them drop and find them
6. Put the rear of the rack and spacers in position and, gently moving the indicators clear, slide in the (longer) rear bolts through the rack, spacers and metal indicator seals. Make sure these "seals", which seal off the indicator internals, are correctly positioned with their tabs correctly positioned.
7. The tricky bit is to start the nuts, by fingers, on to the bolts. To start this is achieved a flat and a bit at a time. Once started, jam the nuts ( I use my fingers) and then tighten the bolts.
8. Tighten all and remove protectors, replace seat.
9. Have a cold beer (WARNING - leave this step to last)

VOILA!

I remove and replace my rack at regular intervals. After the first couple of times it takes less than a few minutes. Some key points:
When fitting the front, square the rack so that you can fit the spacers, the rear squares itself when the front is finger tightened
Don't damage the indicators when pushing in the rear bolts
Make sure the indicator metal backs are positioned correctly

I apologize if I haven't been clear but am doing this away from my bike, one armed, and a few hours out of a general anaesthetic (bicep distal tendon rupture repair). I'm on opiates so it may all be totally unintelligible and I will get a laugh from this post a little further down the track.

Cheers
If you got that then removal is sorta just a reversal. Three months before I can straighten my left arm - @&$?! and bugger!
(This post was last modified: 03-10-2014 03:16 AM by Pterodactyl.)
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#4
I've got 6 arms and 6 fingers on each hand, didn't help mounting the rack.
They did help wash down the obscenities that were coming out of my mouth.
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#5
(05-10-2014, 01:37 PM)Pterodactyl_imp Wrote: Shoulda had a look at this:

Post: #6RE: Rear chrome rack from Honda
1. Remove seat, cover the fuel tank and tail-light bracket and then pull a pair of sports socks over the indicators. The socks protect the chrome indicator housings from Allen keys and the various bolts as they are removed and replaced. The indicators themselves can be gently pulled or pushed to achieve clearance as required.
2. Loosen, to finger tight, the four retaining bolts on the grip assembly.
3. Remove the front bolts (only) completely. The grip assembly (the silver bits running along the frame) should stay close to "in position". Place the rack roughly in position over the grip assembly and tail light area.
4. Place the front of the rack so that you can slide the (longer) front bolts through the rack, spacers and grip assembly through to the nuts that are fixed to the frame. Tighten to finger tight. The rack is now held in position by the front bolts and now sits atop the (covered) tail light assembly at the rear, or if you have the front bolts just tight enough, sitting above the assembly.
5. Remove the rear bolts. You will need to hold the nuts to stop them falling as they are not attached to the frame. Either that or let them drop and find them
6. Put the rear of the rack and spacers in position and, gently moving the indicators clear, slide in the (longer) rear bolts through the rack, spacers and metal indicator seals. Make sure these "seals", which seal off the indicator internals, are correctly positioned with their tabs correctly positioned.
7. The tricky bit is to start the nuts, by fingers, on to the bolts. To start this is achieved a flat and a bit at a time. Once started, jam the nuts ( I use my fingers) and then tighten the bolts.
8. Tighten all and remove protectors, replace seat.
9. Have a cold beer (WARNING - leave this step to last)

VOILA!

I remove and replace my rack at regular intervals. After the first couple of times it takes less than a few minutes. Some key points:
When fitting the front, square the rack so that you can fit the spacers, the rear squares itself when the front is finger tightened
Don't damage the indicators when pushing in the rear bolts
Make sure the indicator metal backs are positioned correctly

I apologize if I haven't been clear but am doing this away from my bike, one armed, and a few hours out of a general anaesthetic (bicep distal tendon rupture repair). I'm on opiates so it may all be totally unintelligible and I will get a laugh from this post a little further down the track.

Cheers
If you got that then removal is sorta just a reversal. Three months before I can straighten my left arm - @&$?! and bugger!
(This post was last modified: 03-10-2014 03:16 AM by Pterodactyl.)

How's the healing coming along?

Note to Tortuga and the Spaceman, I'd have thought the title of this thread offers opportunities to inventive chaps like you.
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#6
(05-10-2014, 12:25 PM)Capo_imp Wrote: The engineer responsible for designing the OEM Honda rear rack for the CB1100 is an evil, evil man. Installing that thing caused me to utter more expletives than one would hear in a Quentin Tarantino film with a script enhanced by David Mamet.

At one point I was using my groin to balance the rack, my left foot to twist in a bolt, and my daughter to apologize to the neighbors for my 100 decibel stream of invective.

But it's on now, and it looks pretty good. I have gone deep into a bottle of Sailor Jerry rum this evening, and things are looking up. Thank you for listening.

LoL I had about the same feeling this winter when I mounted mine... One hour wandering if I would succeed ! Eventually I bent the turning lights strongly enough to pass the rear bolts, but I was very uncomfortable. Fortunately they came back to their initial state, ouf !
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#7
I had no problem at all mounting the rack, use painters tape to protect the indicators and a short alan wrench .
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#8
I've heard it was a pain... That's why I want the dealer to install mine...when they decide to
bring one to the states for the 14dlx.
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#9
[quote='Pterodactyl' pid='41142' dateline='1399779469']
Shoulda had a look at this. quote]

Yes. I should have. And my wife, adding the ever so passive aggressive 'Oh, didn't you read the instructions, dear?' agrees.

All good now. After hanging out with Sailor Jerry, I went out in the garage and stared at the beauty that is the CB. Then I went over to my shelf and looked at my trophy for winning the Central New Jersey Plymouth Trouble Shooting contest in High School auto shop in 1976, which gave me my confidence and manhood back. Or maybe it was the rum that did that...

[Image: 331f3ca963f90e6e26cf0ccfff6744d1.jpg][Image: 17b018752aecd8c537083222c7d02ab0.jpg]
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#10
(05-10-2014, 09:36 PM)Capo_imp Wrote: [quote='Pterodactyl' pid='41142' dateline='1399779469']
Shoulda had a look at this. quote]

Yes. I should have. And my wife, adding the ever so passive aggressive 'Oh, didn't you read the instructions, dear?' agrees.

All good now. After hanging out with Sailor Jerry, I went out in the garage and stared at the beauty that is the CB. Then I went over to my shelf and looked at my trophy for winning the Central New Jersey Plymouth Trouble Shooting contest in High School auto shop in 1976, which gave me my confidence and manhood back. Or maybe it was the rum that did that...

[Image: 331f3ca963f90e6e26cf0ccfff6744d1.jpg][Image: 17b018752aecd8c537083222c7d02ab0.jpg]

You should get Pterodactyl to introduce you to Bundy!
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