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O2 Sensor Eliminator
#1
Found this on the UK CB1100 website. Sparked my curiosity.

http://www.cb1100.co.uk/index.php/topic,...2d5cb3e815
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#2
Interesting, I wonder how it works. The plug must send a steady signal no matter what the conditions may be. Might work great at sea level, but could potentially cause some serious problems if you take a ride up a mountain.

Might be able to achieve the same effect by hooking up appropriate resistors. Would be much cheaper than buying that plug.
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#3
I got one from the UK, havn't tried it yet. It's just a loop back plug with a 300 restistor wired in or something like that.
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#4
Ohm I'm assuming. At what wattage? 1/4, 1/2, 1?
I know...nit-picking. Smile
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#5
(08-07-2013, 02:44 AM)Randy B_imp Wrote: Ohm I'm assuming. At what wattage? 1/4, 1/2, 1?
I know...nit-picking. Smile

When buying the device, you're not paying the 30 bucks for the resistor, youre paying for "knowing which resistor to put in"
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#6
Ok all you really smart guys..what does this thing supposed to do to/ for our bikes in laymans language.
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#7
(08-07-2013, 07:28 AM)The ferret_imp Wrote: Ok all you really smart guys..what does this thing supposed to do to/ for our bikes in laymans language.

It is supposed to prevent the ECU from making changes to the air/fuel mixture while in closed loop operation. Should make for a smooth ride when you start rolling on the throttle, less jerkyness. Will probably add some HP because the bike will run closer to stoichiometric as opposed the higher ratio that emissions prefers.

Downside: Will probably wear out the cat faster. And my guess is less power at higher altitudes.
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#8
(08-07-2013, 08:02 AM)Waffa_imp Wrote:
(08-07-2013, 07:28 AM)The ferret_imp Wrote: Ok all you really smart guys..what does this thing supposed to do to/ for our bikes in laymans language.

It is supposed to prevent the ECU from making changes to the air/fuel mixture while in closed loop operation. Should make for a smooth ride when you start rolling on the throttle, less jerkyness. Will probably add some HP because the bike will run closer to stoichiometric as opposed the higher ratio that emissions prefers.

Downside: Will probably wear out the cat faster. And my guess is less power at higher altitudes.

You are making a bunch of assumptions. Unless one has access to a graph of their bike's A/F ratio at all throttle openings, this device isn't really useful, IMO. What resistance is it set for? Full throttle operation at 1 bar? The ECU is constantly making changes to the A/F ratio across the rev range to smooth out harshness, compensate for the quality of the gasoline one is currently running, and whatever else the engineers found during testing. To shackle the computer like this will likely result in degraded performance.

I agree with the poster that mentioned this is an old-school method applied to modern hardware.

An additional aside, my bike doesn't exhibit any jerkiness. The throttle response is smooth and linear from idle to redline.
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#9
My experience with this type of device is with other bikes and using a power commander. You want power commander to have full control of the fuel maps and so you want no input from the o2 sensor. When you disconnect the o2sensor, you then are operating in open loop mode, not closed loop. The adjustments being made due to the input from the o2 sensor is what closes the loop in the engine control. So you want the power commander to have full control because it will be programmed by dyno runs to produce the desired fuel mixture and completely control the fuel map and other selected parameters so you unplug the o2 sensor.... You dont want input from the sensor. But that will produce a engine fault code because of no sensor. So this device is plugged into where the o2 sensor WAS so that the ecu thinks it is still there and you don't get the engine warning light and fault code.

I suppose if the thing produced a certain voltage that mimicked the sensor reading of a certain amount too lean, then the ecu would add a amount more fuel and give you a richer mixture at all conditions, but you don't know that you always want it richer, so if that particular one is meant to be some kind of stand alone fuel controller, its probably the worst one you could get...but the cheapest.
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#10
Wow, this stuff is really complicated today. I know how to make carbs work. This stuff is way beyond my comprehension. thanks Deanohh.
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