Spark Plugs

[mrded_imp]

The 10mm spark socket is definitely not 10mm socket. I’m soooooo confused!!!

[j3gq_imp]

During my diagnostic battle with my TSR Header, (she has no go now between 5K and redline, I suspect the PC V is dumping too much fuel) I pulled the plugs to see how she was running (they look on the rich side to me) The threaded portion of the plug is an inch long!

Just a word of advice guys, If you haven't pulled your plugs yet, do it and give them a good coat of anti-seize. The plugs take a 14 mm socket. Cheap insurance

I am a bit surprised about this last statement. I have never used anti-seize in any engine / spark-plug application. Not in cars, not in a 2-stroke scooter, not in my bikes. This never caused problems if torques are respected. On the other hand I have seen at least one case where a copper -based anti-size caused significant problems because it wasn't able to handle the temperature (not out of spec so). Neither have I seen service manuals calling for it, and as expected our CB handbook doesn't call for it either.
Any thoughts by somebody with a lot of experience with engines ?

[the Ferret]

NGK does not recommend using anti-seize. They are specially treated from the factory

https://ngksparkplugs.com/en/resources/5...park-plugs

[peterbaron]

M14 socket and proper torque of 12 lb-ft will do, NO grease to the threads = Ferret is right.

[GoldOxide_imp]

Never used anti-seize on any spark plugs, ever. The easiest plugs I removed were always from two-stroke motors because the unburnt oil would always work part way up the threads. I think the most difficult may have been from my '79 Pontiac V6 Sunbird.

The 10mm spark socket is definitely not 10mm socket. I’m soooooo confused!!!

3/8" - does that refer to the socket tool receptor? i.e. 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" are standard SAE receptor sizes.

Yeah, in terms of the socket tool receptor 3/8" is definitely not 10 mm. More like 9.5 mm.

[mrded_imp]

Never used anti-seize on any spark plugs, ever. The easiest plugs I removed were always from two-stroke motors because the unburnt oil would always work part way up the threads. I think the most difficult may have been from my '79 Pontiac V6 Sunbird.

The 10mm spark socket is definitely not 10mm socket. I’m soooooo confused!!!

3/8" - does that refer to the socket tool receptor? i.e. 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" are standard SAE receptor sizes.

Yeah, in terms of the socket tool receptor 3/8" is definitely not 10 mm. More like 9.5 mm.

I’m not worrying about a socket size where it’s connected to a ratchet. It’s more like a sprocket nut+thread sizing is confusing.

[mrded_imp]

All sorted. I had just a crazy socket.

[Ninemeister_imp]

The 10mm for a spark plug refers to the thread size, not the A/F of the hexagon body.
The three sizes in common use for cars and bikes are:
M14x1.25 = 13/16" hex
M12x1.25 = 11/16" hex
M10x1.0 = 5/8" hex

The 3/8 referred to on the packaging is the square drive size for the socket.

[tod.branko_imp]

Here I am bringing this old thing up again, I just received my spark plugs, and I found them from an online store in the US ngk.com (not NGK USA these are independent. Anyways they were 6.54$ a piece, and considering that the dealer here asked me for just over 30$ a piece I think it was a steal.

Now I'm trying to see which tool was used to remover the plugs without removing the tank but that old link takes me nowhere, so if anyone has an idea I'm all ears

Alternatively If there are any tips on what to look after when removing the tank, please shoot

'14 CB1100 STD 5 speed

[peterbaron]

You do not have to remove your tank.
Remove the bolt (M12 wrench/socket) that holds the tank and lift its end up by about 4"/10 cm, would be easier if you also disconnect the breather hose**
I place 2x4 between the tank and frame, while replacing plugs.
M14 deep socket socket and 3/8 ratchet will do this job.
Easy peasy, 1/2 hr job and you are running again ...

**