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Hey there! Back in September I wrecked my 2013 CB1100. I finally got all the parts in and the bike is back on the road! It runs and rides great so far. However, my Speedo, Odometer, do not work and the ABS light is on. The cluster does a full sweep and everything else is working including tach.
As far as I can tell the ABS sensor and wheel speed sensor on the rear right of the bike are one in the same. That was undamaged in the crash, but the wheel adjustment bracket was. I had to take the axel out to replace it, but I meticulously put it back to match the other side. There is no brake drag from what I can tell, either. Everything is pointing to it being straight. I checked the connections before assembling the headlight and meter and the I found the plug where the ABS sensor terminates and it is plugged in and intact.
I was doing some reading and found that there might be a gap spec that could be the reason for the light and speedo/odo not working. But I'm not sure since it was for a different bike, and just a theory.
Everywhere says the meter is plug and play, so I'm wondering where I went wrong or if I missed something. The dealership quoted me $70 just to diagnose so I'm hoping for some ideas that I can try at home before I go that route.
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(03-30-2022, 06:08 AM)danieljrmurray_imp Wrote: Hey there! Back in September I wrecked my 2013 CB1100. I finally got all the parts in and the bike is back on the road! It runs and rides great so far. However, my Speedo, Odometer, do not work and the ABS light is on. The cluster does a full sweep and everything else is working including tach.
As far as I can tell the ABS sensor and wheel speed sensor on the rear right of the bike are one in the same. That was undamaged in the crash, but the wheel adjustment bracket was. I had to take the axel out to replace it, but I meticulously put it back to match the other side. There is no brake drag from what I can tell, either. Everything is pointing to it being straight. I checked the connections before assembling the headlight and meter and the I found the plug where the ABS sensor terminates and it is plugged in and intact.
I was doing some reading and found that there might be a gap spec that could be the reason for the light and speedo/odo not working. But I'm not sure since it was for a different bike, and just a theory.
Everywhere says the meter is plug and play, so I'm wondering where I went wrong or if I missed something. The dealership quoted me $70 just to diagnose so I'm hoping for some ideas that I can try at home before I go that route.
It sounds like the problem is simply the air gap between the speed sensor and the pulser ring with all the slots is incorrect or uneven. This ring needs to run perfectly true. Any high/low spot can stop it from working. Gap should be .002" - .005", thinner than a credit card.
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(03-30-2022, 07:45 AM)pekingduck_imp Wrote: (03-30-2022, 06:08 AM)danieljrmurray_imp Wrote: Hey there! Back in September I wrecked my 2013 CB1100. I finally got all the parts in and the bike is back on the road! It runs and rides great so far. However, my Speedo, Odometer, do not work and the ABS light is on. The cluster does a full sweep and everything else is working including tach.
As far as I can tell the ABS sensor and wheel speed sensor on the rear right of the bike are one in the same. That was undamaged in the crash, but the wheel adjustment bracket was. I had to take the axel out to replace it, but I meticulously put it back to match the other side. There is no brake drag from what I can tell, either. Everything is pointing to it being straight. I checked the connections before assembling the headlight and meter and the I found the plug where the ABS sensor terminates and it is plugged in and intact.
I was doing some reading and found that there might be a gap spec that could be the reason for the light and speedo/odo not working. But I'm not sure since it was for a different bike, and just a theory.
Everywhere says the meter is plug and play, so I'm wondering where I went wrong or if I missed something. The dealership quoted me $70 just to diagnose so I'm hoping for some ideas that I can try at home before I go that route.
It sounds like the problem is simply the air gap between the speed sensor and the pulser ring with all the slots is incorrect or uneven. This ring needs to run perfectly true. Any high/low spot can stop it from working. Gap should be .002" - .005", thinner than a credit card.
It sounds like the problem is simply the air gap between the speed sensor and the pulser ring with all the slots is incorrect or uneven. This ring needs to run perfectly true. Any high/low spot can stop it from working. Gap should be .002" - .005", thinner than a credit card.
How do I go about adjusting that then? The wheel spacers and everything never came out. I only took the axle out far enough to replace that adjuster on that right side.
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Just take your credit card to the dealer......
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(03-30-2022, 08:38 AM)Houtman_imp Wrote: Just take your credit card to the dealer......
It won't work in this case, cos pd said: "thinner than a credit card" 
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The service manual says to “…check the gap (see specs in post #2) at several points by turning the rear wheel slowly. The sensor air gap cannot be adjusted. If not within specification, check each installation part for deformation, looseness and damage.”
“Check the wheel speed sensor for damage and replace if necessary”
“Check the rear pulser ring for damage and replace if necessary”
Like said above, it must be flat and not bent anywhere or damaged in any way. One member bent his while doing wheel removal and installation. Bent it some and had to replace it.
OK, all that is how to check the sensor, but reading the manual more, it actually says, in your case, to first check that the meters sweep. Yours do. So next, read out the ABS problem code.
Then do some voltage checks and continuity checks. Too much to type here and has pics for connector checks. If you need this, PM me and I can send it to you.
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(03-30-2022, 09:22 AM)peterbaron_imp Wrote: (03-30-2022, 08:38 AM)Houtman_imp Wrote: Just take your credit card to the dealer......
It won't work in this case, cos pd said: "thinner than a credit card"
It won't work in this case, cos pd said: "thinner than a credit card"
My credit cards are already spread too thin...... 
(03-30-2022, 09:44 AM)Lord Popgun_imp Wrote: The service manual says to “…check the gap (see specs in post #2) at several points by turning the rear wheel slowly. The sensor air gap cannot be adjusted. If not within specification, check each installation part for deformation, looseness and damage.”
“Check the wheel speed sensor for damage and replace if necessary”
“Check the rear pulser ring for damage and replace if necessary”
Like said above, it must be flat and not bent anywhere or damaged in any way. One member bent his while doing wheel removal and installation. Bent it some and had to replace it.
OK, all that is how to check the sensor, but reading the manual more, it actually says, in your case, to first check that the meters sweep. Yours do. So next, read out the ABS problem code.
Then do some voltage checks and continuity checks. Too much to type here and has pics for connector checks. If you need this, PM me and I can send it to you.
The ABS light stays on because there is no rear wheel speed signal.
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I realize that. But the manual takes you through specific steps to narrow it down and I was just listing them. There was an accident, repairs done by someone with unknown to us skills. Could be a damaged wire or connector or the speed sensor. pulser ring, etc.
Books leads you through logical steps to narrow it down. Thats all.
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All the above advice is correct, start by the beginning and the most obvious and simple test first as Popgun mentions.
To clarify things; the rear abs sensor verifies the correct function of the abs system when the bike is first moved, both sensors register ok and the light goes out indicating all functions are verified  .
Then the abs module transfers the signal to the speedometer and odometer in that order.
No abs signal from rear wheel; no odometer, not sure if you already knew this but without an electrical diagram it may not be clear what is happening.
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I really appreciate all the responses! I had to take the center stand off due to damage, and I'm not sure I want to replace it (though I might in the future). Now I have to decide if it would be cheaper to get a jack from Harbor Frieght or to just pay the dealership to fix it. Assuming the rear wheel just needs to be adjusted and the swingarm isn't slightly bent (which I don't think it is but anything is possible knowing my luck)
I did take some feeler gauges and it's definitely more than .005" but not by much. And obviously I can't spin the wheel easily so it could just be slightly off kilter and I caught it in a wide spot. I'll sleep on it and decide what to do tomorrow!
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