Shifting issue

[Cormanus]

Thanks Peter. More help. Thank you.

To answer your questions:
[li]No. The bike is fine taking off in 2nd, although next time I'm out I might try it again.[/li] [li]No. The clutch lever feels fine. Doesn't feel as if there's any loss of pressure in the system.[/li] [li]If I'm honest I've had this problem a while and there have been several changes of oil.
[/li]
I suppose I'd better get out there and see whether I can change the fluid. Time to learn something new!

[max]

Considering all the other good advice we just checked my cb1100 80.000 km.
Rear wheel drag with clutch lever fully engaged to the handlebars and on centerstand; engine cold, difficult to rotate in first gear but gets better when it starts to move.
cb1000r in same situation; considerable easier to rotate.
cb550k much more difficult to rotate rear wheel.

Did notice the cb1100 gets a bit more difficult to get in neutral at traffic lights than before similar to cormanus.
Cb550k is almost impossible to get in neutral except when engine is cold????
cb1000r always gets in neutral any time without any effort.
cb1100 cold engine in first gear; bike starts to engage with thumb with from fully pulled in.

Looking at Pekingduck's picture i think he's on to it, the lower clutch plates in the "basket" move the least and the ones on top move the most distance so as to allow space for the lower ones to release contact, just my unqualified idea.

Could do a "basic tools required" clutch fluid replace video on youtube if that helps Cormanus.

[Cormanus]

Thanks max. What do you mean, ‘difficult to rotate’?

I have a syringe to empty out the reservoir and a bleeder bottle and hose, I understand bleeding lines, and I have a copy of the service manual to show me what to connect to, so I think I’ll be right for that part of the process. But I’ll let you know if reality proves daunting.

When I get to having to pull out the clutch, a video will be very handy.

[pekingduck]

When bleeding a hydraulic clutch, I found that bleeding it manually or with a pneumatic power bleeder, you have to put a lot of fluid through compared to a bleeding a brake caliper. That's because the hydraulic clutch handle does not "bottom out" as it would when a brake pads go solid against the rotor, and you're just mixing more fluid into a larger volume.

I have found that removing the clutch slave cylinder and using a simple C-clamp to restrict the piston movement will give the firm pressure you would have on a brake caliper, and evacuate all the old fluid much quicker.

[Cormanus]

There's no help for it once one starts asking questions. The extent of one's ignorance just becomes clearer. *Sigh*

I can see the logic of that, pekingduck. But how exactly are you using the C-clamp to restrict movement? Is it to hold a plug for the hole on the inside of the cylinder?

[max]

Here is what my clutch basket looks like after 80.000 km using a borescope, maybe somebody can help where the clutch drag comes from?

Could there be a buildup of something over time and is it an idea to use automotive oil ONCE which is supposed to make a clutch slip a bit more?
Just guessing here.....

https://youtu.be/N6AK-_9jbac

[mattmcuomo@yahoo.com]

When bleeding a hydraulic clutch, I found that bleeding it manually or with a pneumatic power bleeder, you have to put a lot of fluid through compared to a bleeding a brake caliper. That's because the hydraulic clutch handle does not "bottom out" as it would when a brake pads go solid against the rotor, and you're just mixing more fluid into a larger volume.

I have found that removing the clutch slave cylinder and using a simple C-clamp to restrict the piston movement will give the firm pressure you would have on a brake caliper, and evacuate all the old fluid much quicker.

I like that idea, I will try that next time.

Sent from my Pixel 6 using Tapatalk

[pekingduck]

Here is what my clutch basket looks like after 80.000 km using a borescope, maybe somebody can help where the clutch drag comes from?

Could there be a buildup of something over time and is it an idea to use automotive oil ONCE which is supposed to make a clutch slip a bit more?
Just guessing here.....

https://youtu.be/N6AK-_9jbac

Cormanus, the C-Clamp (or vice, or giant Crescent wrench) is used to prevent the piston from moving out of the housing. One side is on the center of the outer housing. The other side goes against the piston (put a big thick washer or equivalent over the seal to protect it).

The seal is to hold the grease in and dirt out for the round tip of the pushrod.

[Cormanus]

Ah. Thank you. That makes sense.

Need to get some DOT4 fluid and make some time to try this.

Looks pretty in there, max.

[GoldOxide_imp]

This thread is shaping up to be some interesting fun seen from the back rows.