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So ... my 2011 CB1100 is 13 years old, has more than 150,000 kms on the clock, is still going strong, and I have no complaints. Except, when it's been ridden for a while, and the engine is really hot, and the bike is stationary, it become difficult to shift into neutral from 1st or 2nd. It can also require more effort than when the engine is cooler to shift from 2nd to 1st when stationary. I also think that when this occurs there is the faintest creep forward when the bike is in gear: it can require more effort to push it backwards than when it is in neutral.
Does anyone have any thoughts or suggestions?
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Cannot say I had a gearbox issue, but I also hadn't accumulated 150000 kms on the CB1100 either.
However, many times after a long and hot freeway ride the lump was quite hot and other things took awhile to settle down like the fueling (difficult to keep RPM up at normal idle for a minute or so). I always wrote it off an components behind the lump as a bit toasted too.
Perhaps a Forum member with clutch maintenance experience will lean in with a comment?
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Constant mesh transmissions tend to be difficult, if not impossible, to shift when the bike is stationary. Both the primary drive and secondary (final) drive shafts need to be rotating for the gears to align the dogs and mesh freely. If your bike is experiencing a difference in shifting, then maybe your clutch is slightly dragging. How is the lever free play? How many miles since your last engine oil change? Put your bike on the center stand (if you have one), and start the engine. Hold the clutch in and and put the transmission into first gear. Does the rear wheel begin rotating? While still holding the clutch in, apply the rear break gently until the rear wheel stops rotating. Does it take a lot of breaking force to stop the wheel? You'll have to be the judge, but this is a good and simple test to determine if your clutch is dragging. If your clutch lever free play appears acceptable, I would do an engine oil change and see if that has any effect.
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Thank you. Learning for me in both those activities.
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First thing I'd check is the easiest, but not the likeliest. The pivot for the shift lever - clean and lube it.
Given the mileage, I would check the clutch center and clutch outer for notches caused by the clutch plates and friction discs rattling back and forth.
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I don’t know if it’s relevant, but there are no issues when the engine is cold. It is not a problem until the bike has run for some time and is hot.
Is there a way to adjust the clutch engagement point? I could see nothing in the service manual.
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No, there is no clutch actuation adjustment.
If the clutch center and outer have notching, the clutch plates and friction discs tend to ride in the notches. As they expand with heat, the notches can hold the plates and discs together slightly, resulting in slight clutch drag. This would have been a very gradual deterioration.
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Here's a pic of a very badly worn basket.
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(03-15-2024, 03:59 PM)Cormanus_imp Wrote: So ... my 2011 CB1100 is 13 years old, has more than 150,000 kms on the clock, is still going strong, and I have no complaints. Except, when it's been ridden for a while, and the engine is really hot, and the bike is stationary, it become difficult to shift into neutral from 1st or 2nd. It can also require more effort than when the engine is cooler to shift from 2nd to 1st when stationary. I also think that when this occurs there is the faintest creep forward when the bike is in gear: it can require more effort to push it backwards than when it is in neutral.
Does anyone have any thoughts or suggestions?
All other members comments are good!
Based on your good observation, I would say you may have one to three combined or separate clutch issues:
1. the clutch plunger does not have required stroke/movement to completely disengage/separate clutch plates due to: air, contaminated fluid, clutch master pump/piston blow by or/and slave cylinder piston blow by, and this could be consider as hydraulics. Also check for wetness under the left side rear engine cover, not necessarily leak or dripping clutch fluid, would indicate slave master cylinder unnoticed weeping, fluid level lower than normal??, pull off the cover, if there is no leak, the clutch fluid reservoir should always maintain constant level.
2. you also may have an issue with worn brass/soft bush #2/parts - its seat becomes too deep by constantly being "attacked" by clutch master cylinder steel/hard rod and your clutch have a short stroke/movement
https://www.hondapartshouse.com/oemparts...r-cylinder
3. as to the slave cylinder #8/parts, under the left rear engine cover, check if three M6x75 #26 parts - long bolts are intact, not loose or have stripped thread
https://www.hondapartshouse.com/oemparts...rear-cover
Q: if you take off from the 2nd gear, do you fill clutch slippage?, if not your clutch plates should be OK
Q2: Clutch lever feels funny, spongy, weak..or different before this issue
Q3: Did you change engine oil or its brand
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